GregTas

If you are asking me, I don't know. Perhaps either would work, but if normally on opposite side of car or wipers parked differently the arm might need to move so park position is correct? I got the VZ motor and found it would be a bit of work to mount it, so haven't progressed the job. Still on the to do list. I don't normally drive mine in the rain. Semi slicks, no heater/demister, locked diff, stiff suspension and turbo marks it a bit on a handful even on a damp road. Perhaps me just getting soft as I get older and thinking more about what might happen.

Congratulations Dan on the purchase and welcome. Looks like you've started with a reasonable car and so have done well there.The RB25 will be a good combo and with your trade background, a bit of time and money you should be able to make it happen. Greg

Congratulations Gavin to you and the family.

I feel you're both being quiet generous on the likelihood.

On behalf of the group, it's been fun Happy to play tennis anytime you're free for a game..

If it looks like this on the back then you should be able to get it working.

I can't wan't till you have your fire sale in two years time

back then instead of arguing they should have both been out there stocking up on zeds

Thanks for your concern, but I think I'll be just fine. Although I do have a bit of a problem. My garage is getting a bit too small to fit more toys in. I don't like selling things which becomes a problem as you get older because you run out of space. Sounds like it'll need to be bigger in two years time to accommodate my new purchases.

So Hayden if the 'market crashes' won't everyone on this forum who likes buying old cars for more than a new car prices, just try and buy another one? So wouldn't this drive the prices back up to where they are now? I suspect many of on here have a few years behind us and so smaller mortgages and plenty of food in the cupboards. I'd even be happy to stop eating for a while it it means I can get another one.

Good fishing on your part, you've got a bite. Yes auction a bit poor, but seller might have no idea what's it's worth and not many people would sell something for less than people are willing to pay. Market value is what people are willing to pay. So what it's worth, is really what someone pays. What would really piss me off is someone offering to buy something with absolutely no intention of doing so. Had it done before. Nothing worse that people stuffing you around. I'll refrain from stating what I'd call someone like that.

The 240Z tacho works because the tacho signal picked up by an inductive loop at the back of the tacho. So if +ve supply to new coil loops through the tacho loop it works fine. How I did my RB25. It detects the pulses. No electrical connection required. I thought the 260Z tacho used a -ve signal from the coil. If this is the case then the above method won't work.

Thanks all for the entertainment. How about a 350Z Track?. $15k or so and you get a Z badge, only two seats and you should even get a working radio and retractable seat belts for that. Great also for a daily driver. Now that's good buying for a Z person! Nicer than a new stang too. I wish I had one as well but I've already got too many rego bills to pay.. Or if this thread's more about fishing, then apologies for interrupting.

Thanks Mick. Battery is in the boot in a battery box. Back left corner. I could have left it there, but thought better in back for weight distribution.

Yes that's definitely worth understanding first because it could add quite a bit more to it and influence plans for the brake and suspension upgrades.

Hi Tom, Well I've done one, but I would say it's quite a bit more than a list of parts to buy, more a list of things to do, sort out. I'm sure there must be a lot of stuff online that covers it. Engine mounts made my own. I sat a dummy engine and gearbox in place and once where I wanted it worked out the dimensions for them and made them up. I believe it is possible to buy something, but might not get engine exactly where you want it.. Sump: I chopped the bottom off RB sump and made and new one with sump at rear. You can use a patrol RB sump and do it with less work. Gearbox: RB. Need to remove the speed sensor to fit it in the tunnel. Tailshaft: I used skyline shaft. Shortened to one piece. Replaced diff flange with Subaru STI 6 speed diff flange (Not easy to get locally). This flange has the same bolt pattern as Skyline shaft. So it then just bolts up. Radiator: Both fittings on drivers side. Plenum: Used Skyline front throttle body, but had to chop front of and realign it for induction pipe to go out the front. Intercooler: Modified it so pipes go through the air vent holes. Gearbox mount: Mount be able to buy one, but some have said what you can buy is not great. So might be better making your own up. Wiring: Either get a Skyline loom and wire it in. Or better way custom ecu and do your own loom. Time: A lot of it required. Cost: Quite a cost even if doing all the work and fabrication your self. If you have to pay someone to do it and cost is a possible constraint, then probably not something to consider doing. Stick with good L series. How's that for a start. Greg

16x8 +4 offset. 225x45x16 Tyres. Std guards with lips tapped up. No scraping of tyres.

Aren't we all in the beginning

Yes a lot of enjoyment from fixing a stuffed car up from scratch. I did just than recently. Although I did all the work myself and parts alone cost me well over $20k. So if car $5k. Body about $25k. Then for the $20-30k you have left you might get there. As Gav says, RB25 is a good option. Nissan engine and engine has plenty of potential. The more you do yourself, the more satisfaction you will get from the project. Good luck.

If you're thinking about spending that sort of money on the on the body, then when you will also have all the work on drive train and interior to do as well, perhaps a running 2+2 is another consideration. For $25-30k or so I would think you could get quite a good 2+2 that's ready to go.

Reduced my rear toe. About 2.5mm toe in now. Car turns in better on low speed corners and easier to manage coming out of corners under power. but last time out I did have new tyres front and rear. It'll be interesting to see when the rears wear down as they usually do quite quickly how much it upsets the balance. Hopefully it doesn't change as much as it did and the rear alignment was the main issue.

That's obviously a lie because you keep collecting them.

I'll take the RH (Drivers) one if you're ok splitting them?

I ran them in a GTR when they were new and popular, but didn't see any benefit. I just remember they were very expensive at more than $30 a plug. I thought the benefit was more about long life and good on cars where it's hard to replace plugs e.g. having to take inlet manifolds off. I just run normal plugs in my track car. I know some of my friends who also race now do the same.