GregTas

So finished fixing up my car and had a few runs at the track in it over last year. Got it from this: To track ready. It was a bit of work over about 18 months This was earlier in the year. I'm running in regularity and starting out in front so not other cars for a few laps until I catch the back markers. Still some improvement required, both with the car and driving it. The tyres are a limiting factor as I can only fit 225 tyres on it.. I think my quickest time for the day was 60.4 seconds.

No didn't drive before brakes. The car was built up from a body shell. Done for track. Probably a bit too much work for road use. My car is a runner, but still tweaking. More photos in my profile. Quite a bit of work to get an RB in. Engine and gearbox mounts. Tailshaft. Custom sump. EFI pump and surge tank. All the wiring. If you can't do it yourself, then quite a bit cost to it all. Only for those that are committed and not on a limited budget. Yep I'm in Tas.

RB25DET in mine and Skyline brakes to go with it. GTR 325 mm rotors. Some machining work to fit them i.e. convert the five bolt rotor to four bolt. Fabrication of caliper mounts too. So if you can't do the work it could be expensive to get it done. There is a build thread on here done by KatoKid. I did it the same way, but went with the larger rotors.

You can get viynl or leather sets from here, but they are in US. I'm assuming the late 260Z is the same as the 240Z I haven't bought them, but bought a set of their seat covers and was very impressed with the quality. https://interior-innovations.com/product/1970-1973-datsun-240z260z-tunnel-covers/

Definitively no bingo there. You could be right on the cut and shut. Might be why that rear vinyl has been sat back in place for the photo.

Thanks. I'll reduce it a bit and see how it goes.

Thanks. So I'm doing it home and I can't measure degrees, but measured track in mm and then converted with a bit of trig. I end up with 0.6 degrees total. So sounds like I need a bit more. Now this surprised me because when I measured the track at the front and rear of the wheels the difference in track is 5mm. This looked like it was way too much. I was thinking perhaps 2-3mm total toe in. So just confirming I need to put more toe in on it?

How much rear toe in are people running at the track? I'm assuming a bit of toe in works best.

Sorted. Got from Maserati Compound in the US.

I put RB box in my car and by putting the larger subaru diff flange on my datsun R180 diff I was able to use the complete skyline shaft. These larger skyline unis seem to be able to handle plenty of power. I saw your car at a Japanese car show in Melbourne a couple of years ago. I like the wheels on it so much I bought the same.

I reckon he pulled his old gearbox out, which is why the gbox and tailshaft are there. Vacuumed out all the clutch dust. Then went to put his nice new clean box in, and went WTF! So took a photo to show people the situation he's got himself into and how badly he needs a new box.

Hi, I'm chasing the two saddles that are use to bolt the rear lower control arm up to the hangers. Greg

Unless I missed something it looks like new. Just a bit of rust converter on those spots and a bit of paint over it and your're sorted. You're a lucky man. Important bit is underneath. Make sure underneath it is well sealed along the length of the chassis rail between rail and floor. They were just spot welded together and so water can get in here between rail and floor and rust out from inside the rail.

Too much work for a road car, but shell looks good enough for a racer and price is now more reasonable.

How so? Obviously need best tyres on for suspension set up, but if sorting out other things like engine tune I see no point wearing out good tyres.

No not sure on that price. Found price online at $695. So probably high. I did notice my size in 16s was more expensive than 17s. I dropped into tyre shop today and they're getting a price for me. If I buy two more wheels I will have eight, so then I can have two set of tyres, Cheapies for testing and goods for race days.

When I put the CIG in the only difference I felt was a slight understeer with turn in on low speed corners, as expected. If I had LSD then with power on out of the corner when LSD should be locking wheels I wouldn't think it would reduce oversteer. If I went LSD then I wouldn't spend it on R180. I would do on R200 S/N. More options with S/N but quite a bit of work to get one in. So consideration to change over when if/ diff breaks. Yes all relative . I could turn the boost down too On those tyres I had been thinking about something with more consistent grip. I wouldn't mind the Yokie but prices was about $700 per tyre and though could get very expensive if still going through them. I will have a think about tyres. Getting good time when newish but just wearing too quick and variable grip a s they do.

Thanks for all the information and time you've put in. So I get the impression people feel that when rear tyres are wearing down and far more so than front, the car should still have similar balance same as when they were new. Therefore it's something wrong with my set up. Where as I had thought worn rear tyres equals less rear grip, which is why I was getting all the oversteer when rear tyres are worn and car is much better behaved with new tyres front and rear. So perhaps my belief was wrong. So in comparison. My car: Car has weld steel cage and is also seam welded. Koni adjustables. I know some don't like them, but spring rates not that high so can't see why they wouldn't work ok. Standard struts sectioned 25mm. Springs 2 1/2" Front springs 330 lbs, rear 280 lbs. Springs are a lot softer, but I'm on treaded tyres, not slicks and my tyres are narrower. Now Shane Bond used to run a turboed 240 at my track and does quick times. I originally owned this car with the L28 Turbo and set the suspension up in it. I asked him what springs he was running now. I was expecting in all the racing he would have made some changes, but said he had the same springs as when I sold it to him and hadn't really done anything to suspension. That car had 330 lb/280 lb when sold and so I went the same. I think it feels good. If I went harder, especially in rear I feel the rear grip would be less under power and oversteer worse, but could be wrong. Happy for people thoughts on springs. LCA mounts moved up higher. Camber from adjustable LCA and strut tops. Camber set up via temperature (even across tyre) and wear. Would be about 3.5 deg left and 4 deg right.. Track is mainly left hand corners so left tyre runs hot on inside if camber not reduced. Also scrubs out. Toe 0 All bushes nolathanes Castor rods Tech Toy rose jointed adjustable. A bit more castor, but not heaps on as guards not chopped. Front ARB .22mm. 3 holes each side. With new tyres run centre hole both sides. With more worn rear tyres, on one side of the ARB the link mount is moved forward (stiffer) one hole. So only slightly stiffer. Oversteer reduced and can get power down better and feel more similar to when rear tyres were new.. No rear ARB. Tyres 225x45x16 AR-1 treaded, semi slick. So smaller with less grip. My engine 373 rwhp (at 6800 rpm) and 260 ft lbs torque (at 4600 rpm) Max torque of 280 ft lbs (380 Nm) at 6800rpm. So more torque and possibly quite a bit more lower down due to turbo. So in comparison I feel big difference is I'm running with softer springs and more power/torque and less grip. I don't think my softer rear springs would be resulting in less grip under power, quite the opposite. What it is has made me think about is the rear toe. I have not checked it. The rear arms are stock and so it's the one part not adjustable. I could check that and possibly see about some toe in. Perhaps buy some adjustable arms or make some. I still feel the oversteer will increase as the rears get down, but perhaps more manageable with some rear toe in.

LSD? Old school LSD......... R180 Weldy Very predictably and definitely equal drive to both wheels I was going to go R200, possibly S/N Skyline if it broke, but it has held up ok. This is where small tyres and less grip is good, because if the wheels can slip you're less likely to break something in the drive train.

I totally agree. With new tyres on the car it's pretty good. Just sick of adjusting ARB to compensate for rear tyre wear. I've done 59s at my local track (Baskerville) using Nankang AR-1 tyres. In the GT class here, which is an unrestricted class. The faster cars are doing 57s and 58s and they all run A050s. Skylines with 400+ kw and 255 tyres! So I feel my times are very respectable for my 50 year old car working with what I have. I might even have quickest time for a 240 at my track (Depending on what Shane Bond got down too). My problem is being limited to a max rear tyre width of 225 (std guards), basically tyres are just too small. So the car will always have over steer under power, it's just trying to minimise it so it's manageable.The problem is the wear rate of the rear tyres changes the balance. This year I've done 6 race days and a few practice days and gone through 10 tyres for the year. Even with cheap tyres it gets expensive when you go through them. I can't afford new tyres every meet, so I need to be able to compensate for the wear. If there's a better way to manage handling variability due to tyre wear, I'm happy for the advice. Perhaps sticky, hard wearing tyres .

No don't think it's that great. It always has a lot of oversteer out of corners under power, it's just when it tries to point me into the wall out of every corner it gets a bit much. Car has about 280 kw at wheels and I'm running on 225 tyres. So application of power out of corners is a real balancing act. Predictable, but not a friendly.

Hi, I have an adjustable front anti roll bar on my car and it works well. It has three holes on the end of the arm each side. No rear bar. The issue is I adjust it to balance the over/understeer and have it set up for the day, but some time later when I go to the track set the is not right. Was out yesterday and car had a lot of oversteer. Could be more front grip, or rear tyres worn down. Car has quite a bit of power so rear tyres tend to wear quite quickly. So I come into pits and stiffen the front bar a little, car now balanced. Pain in the but is I can tell a lap in what I need to do, but can't do it from in the car. So has anyone made or bought and adjustable in cabin front anti roll bar for their car? Greg