GregTas

Hi, I'm after a pair of door panels for my 240Z. They need to be in good presentable condition without speaker holes, preferably black

Still looking for one of these.

1:18 https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/maisto-die-cast-1971-datsun-240z---118-scale-model/564195.html

Thanks. I'll have a look and see if the spring is there.

I've reassembled the doors on my 240 and have found that the button drops down by itself. So if I close the door it just locks. The doors were disassembled when I bought the car so I don't why it does this. Does anyone know what keeps the door lock knob up and prevents it dropping back down? Greg

Still got my Vic20 in its original box. I upgraded to the Commodore 64 in the mid 80s and the Vic20 was never sold because it was already obsolete then.

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Hi, I'm after a 240Z hatch lock with key. Greg

Thanks. I was a bit slow seeing it and they've sold. They condition was quiet average so not really what I'm looking for.

Thanks Bruce that would be great. Greg

I'm still looking for a taillight panel.. I'm also after the LH panel that goes in the hatch area.

All sorted now with the clips.

All sorted on the arms Still looking for nuts.

I'm after two wiper arm retaining nuts for a 240.

I'm after two black interior door panels for a 240z. Must be in good condition.

I'm after the interior panel that goes along the back over the tail lights

Hi, Is the JB1361 the correct 15/16 master cylinder that will fit on my original 240Z booster. I think it is. Will this work ok with R31 discs on the back and is it the best option for running on std booster? I've put R33 calipers on the front of my car and R31 on the rear. I got an R33 booster and mc and was going to fit it, but have now realised that a bit of work is needed to offset the clutch pedal due to the size of the booster. So I thought I would stick with the smaller 240 booster and original style master cylinder.

Hadn't noticed the rear hatch. Changing tail light globes or the battery

Congratulations. Starting with a complete car will make the resto easier for you.

To answer you question. Yes I have done it. The 100 watt iron will be too small.You do need a very big iron because copper is a great conductor of heat and so the winding takes all the heat away from the location you're trying to solder the brush onto. It's not an easy job. You need a lot of heat fast so you don't overheat the rest of the winding. Tin both surfaces first, then fuse together. I'd say 200-250 watt iron. They're not cheap and so for a one off job not really worth buying one. Perhaps you could borrow an iron from somewhere? Or a nice auto elec could possibly solder the brushes on for you. or find another scrap starter with ok brushes or may perhaps cheaper to just buy another going one.

Hi, I have a hatch lock, but no key. Does someone know how to get the barrel out from the button? Is it possible with these locks? I went to a lockmsith with the lock assembled and they wanted about $80 to rekey it. For that price I' thought I've have a go myself. When I pulled it apart I was expecting the tumblers to be visible so they could be reset them, but this lock is not like that. I have now looked on the web and have read that some locksmiths have said they are a sealed lock and can't be reskeyed. It looks a bit like that, but perhaps there's a trick to getting it apart?

Yep, especially that bumper.

All sorted I can get a new genuine from Rob at ZFactory in Vic for $85.

New ones would be more than I need. Still chasing some reasonable s/h ones.