GregTas

Interested in front lower control arms and front struts. PM sent

Ok thanks, but I'll need nuts too, so perhaps hold off and I'll see if someone else has the bolts and nuts.

Thanks for the suggestion. Stewart does have bolts listed, but at $22 per set it gets expensive when you need 5 sets. I'm hoping someone might have some secondhand sets that would be quite a bit cheaper than that. If not SW is my fall back position.

Hi, I'm chasing some half shaft bolts, 16 of with nuts. I'm also after the diff pinion to tail shaft bolts. Alternatively if anyone knows of a place to get some suitable bolts with shanks then that would suit me. Greg

On the plus side, possibly two good struts there.

Thanks all. I think it's a standard style radiator with a cross over pipe. I might do it so the top fitting is on the RHS and bottom on LHS. This means crossover pipe is underneath. Thanks I think that might be the way to go. I'll provide an update when I get sorted because it might help others later on.

Thanks for all the advice guys, appreciated. I had thought about the std radiator as it would obviously be a good fit, but if I relocated the top fitted I had wondered how well it would cool with the easiest path is straight down through a limited number of tubes. The car is being used for circuit racing and so the cooling system will be getting pushed. The PWR radiator is a cross flow that has mounting plates on the side like the std ones. Mighty car mods might have used one of these. Thanks Mick on the offer but won't take it up because I'd have to mod it and so probably best starting with something new. Yeah I suspect it will probably be something modfied. That is an option but I would like to run the factory viscous fan fi possible. Thsi method would prevent this. I also don't have a radiator so will try and find one with the outlets on the same side. I think I'll do some hunting for a cross flow radiator that I can mod. I need to keep this cool.

Thanks. I think when I bought them about 6 months back the covers were $190 US and postage was about $85 US and the total cost for me was about $340-350 AUD.

I contacted PWR and they do a radiator for an RB 240z, but the quote was $1800 with fan, or $1200 without. I might be a bit tight, but $1200 still seemed a lot to me. The US option looks quite cheap now. My only concern is with the overseas postage and radiators being a bit fragile. I'll keep looking for options.

Unfortunately I don't have an original L radiator. If I have one I probably would have modified it like you have done. I found this one which looked like a good fit, but being for a smaller engine I wondered if it would be up to it. Although it doesn't look smaller than the L series. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminum-radiator-for-Nissan-SILVIA-S13-CA18DET-Manual/253549599350?hash=item3b08bbda76:g:I~sAAOSwUN9aysYK

I just went to Clark rubber and picked a thickness that looked ok to replace the horse hair back. It was about 25 mm I think. I also put a bit of the same on the sides (10mm) because I was concerned it might not pull tight there. With the exception of the horse hair bit i left all the original foam there. Thanks. I bought these covers. US company, but covers made in Pakistan and posted staright from there. I was quiet impressed with the workmanship. They were also foam lined. http://interior-innovations.com/index.php/welcome/product_detail/42

Hi, Does anyone know of a radiator with both pipes on the RHS that fits in a 240? I need one for my RB powered 240. This one looks perfect, but it's in the US and would cost me $500 landed here. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminum-Radiator-For-70-78-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-RB20DET-RB25DET-KA24DE-MT/330619828554?epid=658082338&hash=item4cfa7a394a:g:DvkAAOxyOMdS4wik

Got my seats in the car today. It's now got of a lot of the interior in it and so it's starting to look like a car. Might not look much, but Sept last year it was just a body needing new floors. Now it has floors,seats, carpet and even a dash. Seats were both stuffed and needed repairs. Neither of the seats were from the car one was a 240 seat, the other 260 and no rails on them. On the 240 seat I had to weld a new set of spikes on the bottom of it because they were so rusty they snapped off when trying to bend them back to pin the cover on. Quiet pleased with how they turned out. My first seat reupholster.

And after totally destroying the car he tells us he didn't damage the back of the car lifting it off the rear susp so us guys wouldn't be freaking out about a possible dent in the back panel. ???

Being a race car why not just repair it. Grind those welds right back. Get the welder out and fill those other large holes in and then put a layer of fibreglass over it to give it a little bit more strength. Quick fix and nothing lost because if you later don't like it and you come across a cheap wheelwell you can replace it then. The money and time saved can then go elsewhere on the car.

Not sure now if it's worth the stuffing around to get the R180 going shifted further back. I might make the change to R200 now. I've still got a few other jobs left on the car so it's not holding me up yet, but can't get my tailshaft made (needed for Rb25) until I sort the diff out. Just thinking about my options now i.e. R180, R200 SN good choice of ratios, but a bit of work or R200 LN simpler, but let options with them. I'm keen to know too if the under bodies are all the same and it's just the bolt on bits that are different.

Thanks. I think I need to find a different mustache bar to get my diff sitting back further.

Hi, Is this the early forward mounted diff? My car is number '741' and has a straight moustache bar. The half shafts angle back from the half shaft mount on the diff. The shiny bar is perpendicular from the half shaft mount on the diff.