GregTas

Only had a quick look. One thing of note is the fuel pump relay must be operated by the computer. This is a safety feature so that if the engine is not running the fuel supply is switched off. A crashed car with a broken fuel line still venting fuel at 45psi is not ideal. You can still have your switch in series with the ecu trigger wire to the relay coil if you feel you wanted a switch. Mindful that everything in the electrical circuit is just another possible point of failure. I also not you have one relay, relay 3 supplying the lights and the ecu. ecu would normally have its own relay. It's a critcal system, others are not. The dash and brake lights do not need to be powered by a relay, just switched with fuse. Ign switch (assuming decent switch) could do this.You could have the ign switch powering relay 3 for the ecu only. I'm not sure what that hot/cold box on the top left is. Is the light switch in the circuit somewhere? Also fuses need to be first thing in the circuit so everything downstream is protected. Relay 3 is not protected, nor are all the switchs and wiring. If a wire has a problem it will just keep smoking.

This is a very inspiring story of how one person and his mates on a limited budget developed a bike ahead of its time that was able to successfully compete against the works teams. The Britten motorcycle He designed and built the engine for it! Sorry I don't know how to put the link in with pic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T9vp5dbi8dI

Those throttle bodies would have been pretty trick back in '97

Still got my Atari 2600 and also a Vic20. Asteroids amused me for hours too.

Happy New Year to you to. Thanks everyone for the assistance over the last year with info to help get my 240 back together. Greg

Krizza, I'm assuming you meant your comment for 'twoforty z' Looks like we are both in agreement on the likely cause i,e, the second wire on the +ve side of the coil.

Here's a diagram. I chopped up the full diagram so it was a bit easier to follow.

On the +ve side of coil I would have expected only the one wire that loops through the back of the tach. I looked on a diagram and it only showed the one B/W wire. With another +ve wire on the coil the tach will not see the switching because it's effectively bypassed. What happens if you just have the B/W wire that loops through the tach on the coil +ve?

My bumper was original OEM. The bumper had the original rubbers on it but they were stuffed which is why they were getting replaced. Now it was a 260Z bumper, but I assume the holes are spaced the same on the 240 and 260. The bolt spacing on the OEM rubbers was good and lined up nicely with the holes in the bumper.

I bought a set of the front rubbers and my experience was a little different. The end bolts on the rubbers were too far in and so required a lot of stretching and some effort to get them in the original holes. On one of them the bolt pulled out of the rubber. I ended up returning them for a refund. With the OEM strips the biolts are pegged into the rubber by a square metal plate about 10mm square and so they won't pull out. These replacements didn't have anything on the end of the bolt to tie it into the rubber. The end on the one that didn't fail also kicked up a bit due to the pull and stretch on the bolt. On the one that failed the bolt t wasn't over tightened after it made contact with the bumper, the bolt.pulled out before the rubber was flat onto the bumper. On the plus side the rubber profiles and quality seems quite good and so if you found the same issue that I did you could redrill or slot the end holes in the bumper to reduce the pressure. If this was done I'm sure they would work just fine.

Alfa motorsport in Vic list them http://www.motorsportfibreglass.com.au/products/c24/Datsun-240-260Z

Reasonable suggestion and I could have possibly got hold of the 260Z stuff, but unfortunately not really an option for me as my pedal box is modified to take dual brake cylinders. I've done some more more around the cage and got it up a bit better. I feel the dash is now up where it should be, but the column is still too high. I think I'll drop the column down 10mm or so. Seems wrong but the 260z one must sit lower, unless the lock just mounts pointed down a bit.

Thank you very much. I'm sorted. I surprisingly found nothing on ebay because I was not using the correct words. I had been putting in 'number plate' not 'license plate'.

bump

The column is mounted hard up to the underside of the pedal box with the four bolts. I think this is how it should be. The metal plate under the 260z dash with the two mounting bolt holes sat about 20-25mm below the pedal box and so had to be chopped out.so I could bolt the column up to the pedal box It makes me think the 260 column is meant to sit the 20mm or so lower than the 240 column. I chopped out the dash a bit more around the roll cage bar and it did not help. Now I can put a spacer, perhaps 10mm or so between the column and pedal box to lower it if I have to but would like to get it as close as possible to where it should be.

No prob Marc. Thanks for looking and putting up whatyou had.

Thanks for info. So I've bolted the column up to the pedal box as it should be. I know that flat bit that flat plate under the dash with two bolt holes in it, it's the plate that was hanging down way too low to clear the pedal box and so I had to to chop it off. It was a long way down. I wonder whether the earlier pedal box is a little different to the later box. The 260 dash was a basket case and badly cracked along the top which is why I was ok with chopping it. Plenty of fibrefill went into the top of it to make it more presentable It's possible the cuts outs for the roll cage are not large enough on the rear and so the roll cage is forcing the dash down a bit. Perhaps that's why the gap between the dash and console is angled and not even?

I have a problem with my steering column hitting my dash and I'm not sure what the problem is. Now I have installed a 260Z dash in my 240Z, but thought the dash and column positions and height would be the same. I bolted my steering column straight up to the pedal box with the 4 bolts. It all mounted fine. Now with the dash in something is clearly not quite right. I can't mount the lock on the column because it hits the dash. Does the column mount straight to the pedal box or should there be a space in between them to bring the column down a bit? Greg

Thanks guys, appreciated. Mymadz the wiring digrarm was what I was after but the resolution is a but small for me to see the wire detail. Sixshooter the FSMs are perfect. The Electrical section of the 72 manual provides a nice bit of extra detail.

I've been searching a bit for a FSM and found a few links, but haven't yet found a link that actually works. I did see your couple of threads on the relays which may be help a bit.