HomeBuiltByJeff

Is that the car the car that has been on Carsales for the a couple of years now?

Out of interest. Does anyone know the number of the last Australian series 1. My car is a '71 HS30-01510, but I don't believe any of the removable panels on the car are original anyway so no idea if it should have the hatch vents. I don't think my car is early enough, but if it is then I will reinstate them. Where do the early girls end and the not so early begin?

Thanks mate. In some ways it is slow going, but with the pressure of weekly videos, it doesn't sit forgotten in the back of the shed.

This week I finally finish repairing all of the rust damage on my doors. Getting there slowly. Jeff

That poor 243 number car. It obviously fell victim to bad 80's/90's mods.. Each to thier own I suppose. That blue 260 looks fantastic.

Maybe, but I don't have to pull mine down as far as you. Keep it up, I am enjoying your progress.

That is barely a Z any more. My hat is off to you.

I didn't want to use Mrs Jeff's oven to heat up some parts, but someone reminded me afterwards, you could also use a BBQ. Just a thought.

This week I have been back at it, cutting rust out of these doors. I am quite happy with how the repairs are coming along, but it is so time consuming.

Haha, it does look like that. I was actually looking along the door to make sure I was keeping the panel flat whilst tacking it together.

I was thinking that is a bargain, then I realised you are selling door 'trims' not door 'skins'

One of those kits would be good. I actually like the look of the longer handled dolly that is in the eBay kit, as I often find I am struggling to get my arm inside a door or panel. I personally think it is less about the gear, and more about the techniques as @PeterAllen mentioned. I did a quick video of my garage hack panel shaping tools last week that you may get some dodgy tips from, but a course would probably give you a heap of useful knowledge.

This week I work away at finishing that terrible door. It is a lot of rust and a lot of work, but I am stubborn enough to keep at it.

Yeah, I found an old link on this forum that took me to their page, but it doesn't look like they still have them. I have sourced the lip, wing and flares now anyway, so when the rust is sorted I can work on fitting them all.

It is my understanding that is illegal. The serial number can never be removed from the chassis. The issue with this car would be what is actually left of the chassis, so that would be the only way to save it. Then is it actually a matching numbers car anymore... I often bite off a lot, but that is even too much for me. My hat is off to anyone who has the time, patience and wallet to bring that back. I hope someone does.

Where is the fun in that

I have out takes on most of the videos. Usually it is Mrs Jeff struggling with the script, but she has started getting better with the car terminology which is ruining my bloopers

Are my 240Z's doors completely rusted out and junk? They have been covered up with a mountain of bog and paint, so this week I strip them down and see if I can save them.

I will follow that cam up. I checked, as best I could, the wear on my valves, valve guides, cam housings and crank and everything looks to be well within spec. What is the best place to get standard rebuild parts, e.g. gaskets, bearings, water pump, etc? Nissan? Rare Spares?

I have already got and read the first one, as it is what I have been using to date. I will order the second one now.

That is some fantastic advice. That is the sort of thing I am looking for. I think I will try my hand at some light porting, but like you said, mostly just cleaning it up and matching it to the manifolds. I am starting to think it may not be worth the hassle of upping the compression. It sounds like just bolting on the N42 head. Possibly just do the light head porting, and a cam, with my current head and see how it goes. Where should I send my cam to be re-ground, and if I keep the current head what grind (72 degree still)? Obviously to still match up with webers and an exhaust to match.

So with an N42 head, on my F54 block, with my flat top pistons, and a larger cam (72 degree??) what valves would I need to source? Do I need aftermarket? Or do I need N42 valves? I do plan on taking the case and head to a machine shop, to at the minimum get them cleaned and to make sure the head is straight, etc. What else must I do? I am not looking at building something that revs to the heavens, I am more looking for a simple build that I can do at home. If it turns out that upping the compression is a stupid idea and it is better to just do a clean stock rebuild, then so be it, but I am sure there are a few things that can be done by someone at home if you take your time, and do it right. I will be building my 911 engine myself when all my custom parts come back from the US, and that is stupidly expensive (probably in the realm of 20 times the budget of this engine). So this build is hopefully going to be a lot simpler, and more straight forward.

You should have dropped me a message, I was working on the car the whole day. Even just to say hi. Well, If I can get away with just putting the N42 head on I may have very little machining to do. I would like to give the porting a go myself, and obviously all of the assembly. As you may have guessed by now, I don't like getting anyone else doing the work for me. If I can do everything myself, I will.

Looking forward to seeing the progress.

That is what I am talking about! I live in the sticks (Bowral) so traffic is not an issue. I am thinking I should take Gav up on his offer to swap for the N42 head, but I am trying to find what compression that should give me with the flat top pistons I have. I have have read one place that said 10:1 (which is perfect) where another said something like 11.5:1 (which is way too high for me). The triple webers sounds great, so I am happy to live with the downsides. I know nothing about carbs, so I may as well jump off the deep end. I am stubborn enough to learn or die! When you are talking about the porting required. Are you talking about cleaning up the ports and matching them to the manifold, or are do you mean I have to really get bigger valves?