HomeBuiltByJeff

I have no idea about the history of this head, but as soon as he pointed it out you could see the edges of some of the holes were quite corroded, some of them starting to encroach on the inner seal of the head gasket around the cylinders. He also gave me some nice tips on how best to give it a light porting job, so I think it should come out quite nicely.

Ok. An update on this front. I travelled out to see Stewart Wilkins today and I dropped off my head and block. After some inspection of the head, Stewart pointed out some corrosion around some of the water galleries. This will need to be welded up to repair it. While he is there he is going to also weld up the grooves on the edges of the inlet ports which were originally to accomodate the injectors for this fuel injected head. He is also going to shave around 1mm off the head to raise compression. He does hate doing it though, as he says, once you take it off you can't ever put it back on. The block is just going to be cleaned and honed. I am going to give the head a mild tidy up of the ports when I get it back. I have ordered a Kameari manifold and triple 45mm OER carbs, and I have already got my cam back from Clive cams with a 72 degree grind, so it is full steam ahead. Stewart said the head and block should be done around the end of January, so hopefully there will be some detailed engine build videos in the near future.

Yes. I printed out the whole schedule 'J' and, as I did with the Porsche, made sure everything complies. If I am going to buld a cage, it is not that difficult to make it so it can be CAMS approved later. I could also add to it and make it a full cage or what ever if I chose to in the future.

http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic19d/15-6013CH Although I am not sure what they would charge for postage.

I bought it off ebay. Can't remember the exact company.

Beautifully shot piece, in a beautiful location.

Did you buy it with the ceramic coating, or did you get it done after?

They look pretty good for the price.

Yes, I potentially want to track it at some stage. Just some extra protection, and they look cool (and because I can ).

This week I have started to build the roll cage for the Z, but of course in the process I discover more rust.... AAAAaaaarrrghhh!!!

If you are going to move to further from the city, move to a more rural area I say. Then you can easily have the man cave of your dreams. I live on a 2500m block 1 and a half hours from the centre of Sydney (40 mins from the outskirts). I could not be happier with the move. No traffic, good roads. If your work permits, I can't recommend it highly enough.

Looking really good.

That is a very good point. I should really sort that out to get things perfect.

Absolutely not. Acrylic is terrible and I won't touch it. I used 2 pack for the whole thing. I have heard a few old school guys talking about how you can get acrylic looking good, but in my experience it is never the case. I have only come across one old school spray painter who could still do it, and that was only because that is what he had used every day for 40 years. I made my living around the top show cars in Australia for 13 years as a professional Airbrush Artist, and all of them were in 2 pack. The way I see it when you are trying to get a gloss finish, you are aiming for the window between too dry (not gloss) and too wet (runs). The window with 2 pack is much bigger and you just get a better gloss straight off the gun. Acrylic is slightly cheaper and 2pack is not something you want to breath in, although you don't really want to breath in acrylic either. If you as going to the effort of painting a car, don't bother ruining it with acrylic, as it will always look amateur.

Haha, thanks guys. I will get there with the alignment, I just need to persevere. The bonnet though, I think is toast. It is going to take so much work to get it straight that I am not sure if it is worth it. I may head down and have a look at those repro bonnets in Moorebank on Tuesday morning.

I will see how I go, but I may even head down there after work on Tuesday morning and have a look. I will probably get one either way, but it may sort out what is what.

This week I have been fighting with the front end, trying to get all of the parts to fit neatly.

Some fantastic garages there. I am with you on the grungy ones. Heaps of old timber beams, or brick walls with flaking paint. Very cool, although I love the practicality of Jack Olsen's 12 gauge garage. Everything well thought out and using all of the space to it's fullest. I need to take some time off of working on the cars, to sort out the garage a bit more. I have the benefit of living in the boonies, so I have a big garage, but having the space has made me lazy and not sorting it out properly.

I plan on painting them and storing them for a future owner. That way, if they want to reverse it, they can.

Back into it after having my 911 build video go viral with over 11 million views in the first 5 days. This week it is time to fit some wheel arch flares to my Z. Jeff https://youtu.be/wUU_RbKB0B8 https://youtu.be/wUU_RbKB0B8

It has gone completely viral, it's crazy. On my facebook it has over 800k views, on Car Throttle's it has over 2.5M views. Then more views on Jalopnik and it currently has about 94k on YouTube. It is insane, I thought it would be a popular video, but never dreamed of that.

Here is one I put together yesterday. It is not a Datsun, but it will give you an idea of what I will be doing to my Z.

You have some fantastic roads down there.

This week I gave paint stripper another go, and it works much better if it there are not 20 layers of paint and bog. The whole car is almost rust free now, just a couple of small bits to go.

What I have found now, is I don't tend to get much warping with the welding itself. There was more that came through the grinding. Now I have recently switched from hard grinding discs to coarse flap discs it seems to be much better. It still grinds back the weld quickly, but it seems to put less heat into the panel.