HomeBuiltByJeff

Unfortunately the engine is on the engine stand so I would have to take it off to test it. Although I do have the flywheel and the starter motor, that came with the car, it didn't come with any of the nuts bolts, so I am going to have to track something down on that front. I am going to pull the head off today, and see what is going on inside. We can go from there.

I put a teaspoon or so of oil in each plug hole and left it 15 minutes or so before I tried it. I can imagine the speed I am cranking it would make the reading a bit less, but should it be zero?? I am starting to think I may do a full rebuild on this engine anyway. After dealing with Porsche stuff for so long, I am amazed at how cheap rebuild parts for these cars are (no exagerration 1/10th of the price). I have no idea what I am doing, but I love a challenge, so here we come

The engine doesn't offer a great deal more resistance with the plugs in. It is definitely too easy to turn. There is quite a bit of rust on the last 2 cam lobes, or the flat, unlobed area of them at least. When they get to the lobes themselves they look OK. I suppose I now have no choice, but to take the head off and have a further look. As I mentioned, with the cam chain, it is set on position 1, so if it is slightly stretched, I could move it to 2 or 3. If it is bent valves, I think I will be on the hunt for another L28. I can't justify the cost to full rebuild the dead engine at this stage. Yep. Definitely TDC. Cam lobes are up and the piston (you can see it through the spark plug hole, is all the way up as well. Thanks guys.

Hey guys, I am starting to have a look at the engine I have that came with my car. It is an L28 90a block. It had all of the external components stripped off of it so it was basically a complete long block. I have it out and on the engine stand, and I tried to do a compression test (using a breaker bar). I can hear it sucking and blowing through the inlet and exhaust ports. I tried it on every cylinder and got 0 on all of them. It is an unknown engine, but the fact that there is zero is odd to me. I can understand 1 or 2 cylinders being low, but all of them?? I took off the rocker cover and the Cam gear is set up on the mark 1, and the chain feels like it has reasonable tension (although I don't really know what I am looking for). The timing seems like it is correct, as when the cam gear is on the correct mark for TDC, piston one is also TDC, so that is correct. I know I have a lot more research to do, but I am wondering if anyone has some suggestions? Thanks, Jeff

You have another bonnet as well don't you, so you can take your time and just get it right. In the end you are learning the whole time which is always a win.

The main reasons why I didn't do a slide hammer is that, firstly I don't have one, so I would have to buy or make one. Secondly was, how do I grab the head of the nail with the slide hammer. The main thing I do like about the lever method though, it that I think you have a bit more control when you are pulling the dent, so you don't over pull it. My bonnet is never going to be as nice as yours, and as you can see, it will need a light skim of bog to finish it off, but I am OK with that.

This week I have a go at making a stud puller to do some dent repairs and I pull the engine out of the car.

Results look good. I start tackling my bonnet today, which I will post up the results in tonights video. Fingers crossed.

Looks good. Did it need to have that big of an area cut out? From the pictures it only looked like the front few centimetres were bad.

Nice work. How did you weld it? Mig, Tig, Oxy? That is amazingly warp free, I'm impressed.

I know my bonnet has been messed with a lot so it very likely has been work hardened. This week I plan on making my own DIY version of a stud puller so I can pull out that dent in the nose (and others I can't get to from behind), so we will see how I go. I am quite impressed with how your corner patch came out. Was that welded in with a Mig or a Tig?

Just finished reading through this. That is a whole bunch of perseverance for that one part of the car. I know my bonnet definitely won't be that straight, but I am going to try to make it as good as I can. I am mostly worried about welding in a strip at the top and all of the warping that I know will happen. I have looked at those shrinking discs, so it is interesting to hear that you don't rate it. I don't have access to an oxy torch, but I have a smaller lpg torch which I should be able to use for shrinking.

I have been doing a lot of youtube research, and I am up for the challenge. I have an LPG blow torch which I think should do the job of shrinking pretty well. Thanks for the offer of the passenger headlight bucket, but mine is already perfect I like a challenge, and I want to be able to repair it all. I will give it a go, and worse case I can buy replacements (but I am stubborn enough to persevere ).

I am completely with you, that the back of the bonnet is harder to repair than the front. I have already done some similar repairs on the bottom of the doors on the 911. My plan with the bonnet is to cut out a long strip of the damaged area and weld a new bit in. The hard bit is shrinking the metal. There are already a couple of places on the bonnet that 'pop' in and out. I saw you used a 'slapper' I think I will look into that. It looks like the kind of thing I am looking for. As for the headlight bucket, I think it shouldn't be too hard from here. I am not that worried about welding up the split. It is a bit of work, but I don't think it will be too bad. Working on those folds is much easier than welding in strips on flat panels, and dealing with all of the warping that comes with it.

I was getting ahead of myself saying I was going to get rid of the bonnet. I am with you, I can save it and that is what I will do. A bit of patience and some panel beating and it will be good I am sure.

This week I get into stripping the many many layers and years of paint and bog off of the Z. It is a very slow messy job, but it has to be done.

Yep. Surely someone has a mould in Aus?

I have ended up getting a set of flares off of ebay, but I am still waiting for a front lip and wing. Does anyone know who stocks the lip (like in the pic above)?

Ok, I have had a look at that page. I had no idea there were that many different types of front spoiler. This is the style I am looking for. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/uploads/monthly_12_2012/post-853-144023701215.jpg

Hey guys, As stated in the title I am looking for a set of wheel arch flares, front lip and rear wing for my 240. I have just started my build, but I plan on moving through with it pretty quickly, so let me know if you have something of interest. Jeff.

Thanks Andrew. I do plan on pulling out the engine, and I am hoping that it just needs a freshen up, which is definitely the plan. Hopefully I will pull it out this week and see where I stand with it. Thanks for the offer of the front lip, but that is not really the style I am after. I will post up a 'Wanted' ad and see where that gets me.

That is the sort of info I am looking for. I am a Z car newbie and I have no idea. I was looking at all of the wrinkled metal on the floor between the rear strut towers and I thought it must have been in a big rear hit. I looked at some more pics and saw that it was normal. Very weird, but normal? Someone obviously put a lot of work into the car, so I can just get stuck into making it look good, and work the way it should.

Does anyone know what these are like? It looks cheap for everything, but I assume you get what you pay for. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRIPLE-45-DCOE-DATSUN-6CYL-240Z-260Z-280Z-CARB-CARBY-SUIT-WEBER-PACKAGE-CARBIE-/162620598941?epid=2035962976&hash=item25dcf16a9d:g:WUsAAOxy0bRTDv4X

Now I have started to get things rolling, I will need plenty of advice. To start with I need to source some flares, front lip and rear wing. Where is a good place to get these from? I am looking at keeping my L28 which has a 90a head. I read something about it being more difficult to change cams in that head? My rough thinking is that as long as the engine is internally in reasonable condition, I will leave it, just put on some nice extractors, exhaust, cam and triple webers or something along those lines. If you guys can point out flaws in my plan let me know.

Hey guys. Well I know it has been a while, but I have reached a stopping point on my 911 and it is time to start my Z build. This week I first needed to replace the front wheel bearings on the 911 so I could put wheels on it and move it out of the way. I then got into doing a stocktake on my Z to see what it needed, and start formulating a plan for the build. Here is the episode.