aircobra

$90 + shipping . you will pay $170 from the dealer

it wouldbe great to some phots from the meet posted here

as a result, selling my ser 2 mount end of experiment - thanks to all those who responded, we all learn a new thing every day

case closed bought the old style diff mount ( must be the last in the country) and everything went in like a charm. everything is tight like a fish's a__e i'm told that the ser 1 forward diff design makes a bit more noise, but helll, i can;t tell the difference with the u-joins at $40, no big deal to replace them every 50,000ks i got to say the rear suspension design for ser1 is absolute bollocks, you have to take off the rear diff member to change the diff oil (which i did)

nissan hoses are $46 EACH are you talking about these mower line http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Tuff-Cut-Fuel-Line-1m-x-2-5mm-ID-Tygon/379193 also comes in 2mm ID

i think they're an SU specific item and i can;t find them at the standard sources

sorry didnt read the post properly. thought you needed standard parts

warren at allzparts has them locally. if you can get him on the phone

i've used the enamel epoxy black from bunings for non high temp uses https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-metalshield-1l-gloss-black-topcoat-epoxy-enamel-paint_p1400488 goes nice and glossy with roller, paintbrush or spray gun ( with thinners)

anyone bringing anything back to melb from this?

that's not the main problem. in order to fit the mount last time, i had to reverse it. now, the mount has a slight angle in it to support the diff properly and so the rubber is all distorted and even closer to the edge

this is the skinny http://woodworkerb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Diff-restraining-strap-photo.png and the long http://www.zcarsource.com/uimages/product_photos/trans_diff/Arrestor_Strap_b.jpg this is root cause - the long dsign is able to support the diff further back

that would be a factor for sure. as you can see from the photo, the edges of the mount are very close to the edge what other info do you have in your magic book?

for #3, it just doesn;t look feasible - the centre to centre difference is a whopping 2.5 cm, and the stampted shape is very different welding a brackets would just introduce massive stress points. looking at the chunky M12 bolts, looks like this area takes a beating

this "skinny" one , not the later 72 onwards model http://www.thezstore.com/store/graphics/00000001/large102251.jpg if you've got an old broken one, don't throw it out!

ok, made some more progress have concluded that the problem are the strap brackets - they're "skinny" in ser 1 cars and the startp is unable to move backwards to suit the move of the diff so my choices are 1. i have to find a ser 1 mount or have it rebonded and the diff stays in its original position 2. i keep the existing mount, move the diff backwards, get the curved cross member AND mod the strap brackets 3. i hack up the later mount to move the holes - maybe weld on a 5mm plate try my luck in the wanted section

ok, i'll try aussieclassics and jag_parts ( on ebay)

here it is https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/36574132803/in/dateposted-public/ skinny end first https://www.flickr.com/photos/62957688@N08/37386129365/in/dateposted-public/ for the mount, the centre to centre distance for the holes is apporx 12 mm. i figure the ser 1 shd be 17 to move the diff forward does anyone have a ser 1 to measure?

thank to everyone for the suggestions, hopefully its knowledge for all 1. followed the suggestion ( kato's?) to place a some rubber on the exhaust pipe where it meets the cross member. no difference, other than numbnuts did not remove at the end of the experiment and was then driving around with a burnt rubber smell. so dead end there 2. so took the car for the RWC and the guy found it. ready? ok, 1. here's the diff mount i got from zcardepot https://zcardepot.com/catalog/product/view/id/336/s/differential-mount-insulator-oem-240z-260z-280z-71-78.html/ standard nissan issue 2. its not damaged in the car, just like i said 3. however, instead of sitting symmetrical on the cross member like this http://woodworkerb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Figure-RA-3.png its stretched tight on the front and compressed at the back to the point that the mount lips hits the cross member when the diff moves 4. i have the straight rear cross member like this https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/407/19369581915_445221a6b8_o.jpg 5. stewart wilkins ( god bless that guy) from sw motorsports tells me that i need an EARLIER version of the mount - that no one makes anymore - so that the diff sits more forward 6. i think this is right because lots of the suppliers list a 72-78 mount and not 70-71 55415-E4102 - this is the early mount 55415-N4300/4301 - this is generic 280z one that i have 7. from what i can see, the difference seems to around 5mm between the two in regard to the bolt centres so ........ question is: A. have i got the right end of the stick B. surely someone has done this before - is it a matter of ovaling the holes on the mount or just turning it around?

here's a quick Q&A - what's the deal with the carpets? been all over this forum and everyone's bagging all the suppliers personally, i've been calling rob from zfactory for 6 months to source some carpets and every week he tells me - next week can anyone recommend any reliable suppliers looking for "original spec" carpets thanks

thanks gav, don;t knock success - 2 years of resto. dropped the car off at the RWC today !!!!! aerial karate kick x 2 lets see what they find, still haven't traced the rear clunk

you can get "bright steel", which is just plain steel and the version with some sort of coating (the kato kid's version). i've used both and the second one is thicker then the original 240 metal 0.7 vs 0.9 maybe ?

respect to the engine builder

this is them http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-13mm-SQUARE-DRAIN-PLUG-SOCKET-KTC-TOOL-For-NISSAN-B10-B110-B210-B310-/221712660741 http://www.company23.com/521 lots of scary stories about people using the 1/2 and wrecking the plug with the second design will have to drop the mount

my other theory is the exhaust pipe banging on the cross member where there's the circulat cutout cutout? http://whiteheadperformance.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/1971-Datsun-240Z-Restomod-Front-Diff-Xmember.jpg( not my car) how much clearance do people have between the pipe and the cross member? is it meant be handing pretty low or right up against the