aircobra

S30 was definitely designed for mas production - you can see that other then the L24 and the shell shape, its identical to the 510 and the 180b in terms of the basic building block and the component This specifically includes the L24, which was in all aspects a basic engine, shared with every single nissan of the day This is why I think the better comparison is the Alfa and the Fiat and not the Lotus/911. i'm with HS30H in that, once again, if you look at the specs alone ( can't claim that I have driven one), not sure that an out of the box 2000GT would have much of an edge over the 240 with, say, the optional seiko wheels

what's the big deal with the ps30? 5 more kw then the standard L24? really? don;t know about the stats, but always heaps of MGB GTs for sale - about the same # as the 240s i was looking at some 105 restoration photos and i really don;t reckon they're ANY worse then the zs. and that's coming from a guy with the "top5" most rusty z on the forum

i've been keeping an eye on the various 240 alternatives and have come to a conclusion that the z is too cheap. while people always cite early 911s and e-types as "back in the day" competition, i think the current market does not agree, with original restored 911s and 2 door e types at over 100k the better benchmark seems to be alfa gtvs (1750) and AC/BC 124 Fiats, which were all judged as competition in both US and non US markets good 2000 roadsters are also at 50 as far as i can tell, the "supply and demand" has in kicked for the italians and what's left on the market with the 124s at 25 and the alfa at 50. mgb gt v8 are simply too rare to judge so leaving them out of the comparo i had a Honda s600 and wouldn't say that's competition, but these are also over 30 now i know that the current market is all over the place with people asking for 30-60 for a restored original, but still sounds cheap what do the people say?

its hard to see from melbourne what he does. someone from this forum who is sydney based could do the forum a favour and have a look at what's in the warehouse if he's just a reseller for msa ans zcardepot, then we would know exactly what he has

never know what's going with the guy sometimes he's been brilliant, sometimes awful sometimes doesn;t even answer for days

respect. I claimed that my z was the rustiest car on the forum, but even I didn;t have a rusted thru dashboard

i ll take the fuel injection bits

look original 70s fiberglass. needs cleaning up, but looks in good order

FACTORY alloys mediablasted ( not sanblasted), look to be 100% straight and good. currently coated in clear could bundle in brand new tyres would suit a true 260 enthusiast looking for a true factory fresh look

in any condition thanks

one or a set thank you

i got one, will send you a pic tonite

not fussed on size 4.5, 5 or 5.5 set or 4 or 2

it say _15 on the stamp. is that positive or negative?

anyway, on the watanabe site, it shows these F: A 14-70 +3 R: B 14-75 +1.5 most of all, i don;t understand the 15 offset on the 260z mags? is that because of the 5 vs 5.5 width difference

can anyone read jap?

get your eyeballs into this . i though the seiko wheels were only for the rally cars

or will 14x6 + 20 also be correct and go with my 195/70 tyres?

sorry, just read that factory 260 alloys are +15 A86 sizes is 14x5.5, but with +18 offset and there is a 14x5.5 +15 B type listed in the watanabe catalogue that's my best bet?

hi all, i am looking to replace my 260 style wheels with original option Watanabes Looking at the original Nissan racing catalogues, you could get the 8 spoke watanabes in a number of sizes i think it was a catalogue that gav scanned in i'm happy with this width - 5.5 ( size of the 260 rims) and 6 j14, but i'd like to know the correct offset for these as the 14 " watanabes were made for a bunch of jap cars, including the toyota a86 of the era i believe the correct offset is 0 for the standard wheel size

looks like this http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5450 someone must have a set

here's the update 1. the "old" pads were ferrodos. they have some sort of rubberised coating on them, which of course have been destroyed by the pistons pushing onto the pads 2. the new ones are "no brand" ebay ones they both squeal, although with a different tone, mostly in the mid temperature range 3. have used the bendix "blue" brake grease on the back of the pads so 1. try this stuff ( similar to the CR compound. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/DynaGrip-Disc-Brake-Squeal-Free-118mL/1061 I think its some sort of polymer that dries up to be like high temp silicone However the reviews are not enouraging at all 2. get some of the original shims ( which I'm missing). Problem is they're not available new from anywhere http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5451 might put a wanted ad in on the forum if any of the above worked form someone, feedback would be appreciated 3. get his rubberized shims and cut to size https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EBC-Anti-Squeal-Shims-for-DISC-BRAKE-ROTORS-Small-85mm-shim-kit-for-brake-pads/271593834698?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

just bedding in my new resto and have noticed that the front discs squeal like a godddam pig somewhere in the mid range of pedal pressure. before you judge me, they discs are new, the calipers reco units from zcardepot. pads, hose also all new they work perfectly fine, just the damn noise. car's done maybe 50ks on the new gear so 1. tried sanding the pads slightly, bevelling the edges and using some of that blue benidx grease on the back of the pads. made no difference 2. got a brand new set of pads. same deal, different pitch, same noise, slightly different noise its not the rears since the application of the h.brake results in silent braking never heard anything like it ??