theremm

Welcome, sounds like a great project. Looking forward to seeing updates as you progress

Ok thanks David. I'll give them a proper tune and balance again this weekend just to make sure everything is setup correctly. Hopefully that takes care of things.

Hi David, I had tried that actually - anything from 1 to 4 pumps, sometimes with the foot on the pedal when cranking. Still having difficulties starting the triples on first go. Sometimes it takes many attempts which can be a little embarrassing in parking lots with lots of people around.. Was hoping the choke cable might fix this. From what i've read triples usually start quite nicely?

Wondering if anyone had a 240z / 260z choke cable spare at all? Wanting to make up a choke cable for a set of triple solexes however would like to keep my original cable for the twin SU's intact. Mine is a '73 240z.

sorry, you're correct. Didn't correctly read the original post. Thought these were reproduction as I had seen aircobra was trying to reproduce these a little while ago.

are these chrome trims a little thinner than original parts? any pics of a pair fitted to the car with the lens too?

I use motorcycle filter cleaner and motorcycle filter oil

Anything below 3,000 gives significant stumble with foot to the floor; above that it's very crisp and pulls extremely well under full throttle. Below 3,000 is only smooth when accelerating lightly. Haven't got an air/fuel meter unfortunately but will look into that too then. My accelerator pump is adjusted to 7.5mm on the bottom hole, was considering going to the middle hole which would give about 9.5mm of pump travel. Might try that in addition to the 55/57.5 pilots and report back..

How much accelerator pump travel are you running? I have a very similar engine setup to you WA240Z and have followed the above jetting recommendations (albeit I only have 52.5 pilots). As per the Mikuni service manual I adjusted the pump rod to achieve 7.5mm of travel for my 44phh carbs. I am getting a significant hesitation during acceleration when I put foot to the floor though.

It's not about being exclusive - rather keeping the content specific to the purpose of the forum, which is for 240z/260z/280z/zx vehicles

Hi Bobby, i'll send you a PM

Price is probably fair-ish I think, just not much of a market out there for stock mechanical dizzys.

Nothing frustrates me more than ad's without pictures stating 'no time wasters'... just put up pictures and a half decent description and I think you'll find there will be less of everyone's time wasted.

Ad is listing them for a Toyota M engine. Interesting how the thermostat and housing seems to be integrated into the manifold. Never seen that before.

Some interesting triple solex for sale.. are these the 36mm version? https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c736417712

What is so special/particular about the 82/83 dizzys?

Yikes, almost a year. I received the cylinder head back from MIA and had a chance to swap it onto the car over the christmas holidays. James and Brett were hesitant when I said I would be doing the work myself, particularly as I'd never dialled in a camshaft before. But this is what I love most about the project - challenging yourself and learning new skills along the way. Collecting new tools is also very satisfying, as I had to buy a degree wheel, dial gauge and a few other goodies. First up was to remove the old head. As you can see she was very sooty inside and slightly oil in a few chambers. Guessing the valve seals must have been worn? I didn't touch the bottom end however there has never been any smoke blowing from the exhaust at all. My previous stock camshaft had extreme wear on some of the lobes when I bought the car, i suspect due to over tightening of the valves, poor oiling, or both. Didn't snap a photo however there was a visible 0.5-1mm groove on some lobes. Inspected the bores and there were no signs of damage, Bores measured right on 83mm too. The new head from MIA came up a treat. I had a basic recondition done with parts replaced as required. Head was already in great condition with almost no corrosion. Had a regrind Clive/Wade camshaft fitted with specs as per the cam card. MIA also fitted thicker lash pads to suit. Kicking myself now however I forgot to ask them to cc the chambers. From what I have read these have ~39cc chambers, can anyone confirm? Its an E88 efi head from the MR30 L24e. That would put me at around ~10:1 compression approx. The part I enjoyed most was dialling in the cam. MIA was very helpful over the phone to explain how to do this, and there are many great sources online too. I purchased a Kameari adjustable cam sprocket, along with a new timing chain/tensioner kit. Carefully cleaned the carbon build up from the top of the pistons and scraped the deck surface cleaning before fitting the new gasket and head. Lastly, decided to replace the sump gasket while I had the timing cover off. Managed to do this without lifting the motor at all! Lots of patience and small tools required, but its doable. I also snapped a bolt in the front of the timing cover from over tightening and this added a few more days to the whole project... thankfully Dad always knows how to fix any problem and was able to drill it out of for me All in all, extremely happy with the upgrade. Car is sooo much more responsive now and you get a lot more out of the motor without having to use as much throttle.

I use this website a lot. They don't have an itemised list of Nissan part numbers however the exploded diagrams are very useful. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978

Few other photos if that helps at all.

Nice one. How are you finding the webers?

Nice one. How are you finding the webers?

Has anyone seen one of these ignition modules before? It's fitted to an L28 that I pulled from a '82 280zx. I've read a lot about the E12-80 module as well as the Mitsubishi distributor however never heard anything about this before. Anyone have any insight?

Thanks ilbert. Much appreciated. Think I have identified that the problem with the indicator switch is that the US market switch I am using has 2 additional wires compared to the Aus market switch. Looking at the wiring diagram it appears that the front and rear indicators of US cars each had their own individuals wires coming from the switch (4 total), whereas the Australian market cars only had 2.

Thanks Gilltech. If you happen to have an Aus diagram that would be great. Aside from needing to swap the green/red, green/black wires from the indicator talk into the connector block, everything works fine now. My indicator had been intermittent and I've just worked out that it was because the turn signal was running through the wrong connections. I fixed that last night and there are no problems with any other of the electricals. The only other unusual issue I have is that the ammeter gauge jumps from - to + at random times. I wasn't sure if those loose live wires could have something to do with that. My high beam runs through the tall white block on the back of the indicator switch in the first photo, and connects to the connector block where you can see a set of 3 red wires. My original 73 indicator stalk didn't have that for the high beam which I thought was odd. I still kept the old switch for parts.

Sorry - I forgot the most vital piece of information! Car is a 1973 240z, Australian delivered. The indicator switch I purchased was a US market switch for a late 240z. My original Australian switch didn't have the high-beam unit and it was also not working properly, so I bought the rebuilt one from ebay. I have a wiring diagram for 1972/73 US/Canada cars. I couldn't find the wiring diagram for AU market cars. Any chance you have a copy or know where I could access one? The wiring colours seem generally similar but there are a few differences I've noticed.