Mike260LW

Welcome.

Welcome Mike260. Good user name!

Wilwood's technical " trouble shooting" page talks about installing a 2 lb residual pressure valve in the line. Anyone tried this approach?

Thanks for the update. I think we will follow suit and go the bearing spacers and return springs. If that doesn't cure it we may pursue gusseting the foot of the strut. It's fine on a track where there are known straights to give it a confidence tap but I can't see it working on a Tarmac Rally stage. Heal and towing becomes a bit hit and miss with a long travel pedal. Mike.

Sorry to drag this topic up again but we are running the same Willwood brake setup with Tilton pedal box and no vacuum boost assistance. I ran this set up for the first time at the HRCC Autumn Historic's meeting in May but with brand-new pads with plenty of meat on them and didn't really experience any issues. Ran again this weekend and experience exactly the same symptoms of pad knockoff. We are running the larger diameter 260 Z struts and coil over configuration but are obviously experiencing stub axle flexing. I was wondering how you are progressing with a solution to the problem?

I used an old bicycle spoke(s).

Could not agree more. Money is really cheap to borrow at the moment and will probably remain so for the near future at least. A good zed will appreciate in value which helps justify the cost of interest.

Just bought Two sets from Motorsport Auto in the USA. They were put on back order because the getting a new supplier as they weren't happy with the fit of the old ones. I have to tell you if the new ones are better the old ones must have been appalling!

Nice early 260Z. I'm a big fan of the '74 260. What is the VIN # AJ?

Gav, Stewart Wilkins Motorsport fabricates a nice pair. You need to run R200 half shafts as the stub axles don't have the R180 centre bolt.

Jon normally runs 16" x 7" Dunlop DZ03G 205. Very good in the wet. I'm guessing he is running the soft compound. I thought the George Town Stage on Tuesday arvo was pretty telling with Jon and Gina placed third outright against all the moderns and 4WD drive combos! Sensational result. I think they suffered some kind of suspension damage yesterday (Wed).

Hi Aircobra, the last pair I bought I paid a one hundred and fiddy. But that was some time ago. Will be stripping them down and throwing most of the bits away and replacing them. Your thoughts?

With or without manifold and preferably in Brisbane. Good condition I.e. No flogged out butterfly spindle bushes, but happy to put a reconditioning kit through them if needed.

Thanks Jason. After much deliberation we have decided to revert to 45s to try and pickup some bottom end for Tarmac rallys. Our original set of 45s are pretty sweet but we rekitted the 48s with the replacement idle jets and we will worry about tuning if we ever peruse this path again.

OK all you Weber gurus, on stripping down our DCOE 48s to re- kit them, we found the idle jet air drill ("f") holes have been filled in. Any ideas on why this would be? Is this a performance thing or a quick-fix by some one. Obviously the kit replacement ones are drilled as per spec. Not sure what will result if we put the new ones in. Your thoughts please.

Hi Newbie, I'm sure I've got one somewhere you can use.

Thanks for the info and advice. I ended up buying the CIGWeld 175i. Price matched and got it from a local supplier for $1050.00 so I was happy. Too many choices!

Does anybody have any thoughts or knowledge about UniMig welders? My cheap Chinese welder has died. Now there's a surprise! Hare and Forbes have a UniMig dual MIG and Stick unit with gas regulator and other bits and pieces for around a grand.

Thanks Jason and Richard, is it Carb-tech at Beach Street Kippa Ring? Might go and have a chat to them.. Thanks for the Warwick Shane's Bikes and Boats suggestion Groundhog. A bit far to travel but really good to know if we have an issue at Morgan Park. I'll stick that one away for future reference! We've used Carb n Ject at underwood in the past with mixed results. They seem to know there stuff but can be grumpy pricks to deal with! Again it always seems to be about max HP on the dyno but that doesn't always translate to good on the track, but thanks for the suggestion decoy.

Anyone got any suggestions as to who is an "old school" guru with Weber Carbies in Brisbane? I have been using Craig at Motocarb on the Gold Coast. He does a good job but he is difficult to get hold of. I also suspect the base set-up is not quite right and whilst it makes good power there seems to be a lot of fuel sploshing about at the low end of the register. I had a set of triple 45s set up by Iain Stewart many moons ago and they were sweet as nut. Iain had an old oil stained cardboard backed chart with ratty corners and but it seemed to give him the right base line to launch from. He took a very empirical approach to tuning with modifications followed by a hearty thrash around the industrial estate until he thought it felt right and then he would stick on an exhaust gas analyser to confirm he was right! I have no idea what set-up we are running in the current 48s and would like to take it back to "first principles" to ensure the base configuration is correct. Any suggestion?

Yep, this is a very tidy car from a rust perspective. I'm a big fan of early ('74) 260Z. Lovin' the "as built" photos. Helps me put mine back together - it all came in boxes!!

Isn't the N47 head the one with those horrible 'radiator' fins attached to the inside of the exhaust ports to clean emissions?

All three '74 260Z I have had run an orange air box with square port ram tubes. I have one which is surplus to needs if you are interested.

Hi Nick odato re the doors, is yours a 74 260 or later? The doors are different.

A 72 works grind would be fine too. Agree with dat2kman a shorter diff ratio will bring it alive.