Fairlady Z

Yeah good call D3coy prob good to split it otherwise Js thread look like shiver. But dont agree with your colour coment. I got 2x Fairlady z original mesh grills and they are same colour as rear garnish. Also have 2x original slat grills and also they are gray. Have seen brand new grill in box never used and was flat gray metallic like the rear panel.

Gav never knew they had z32 twin turbo back in 1970. and as pointed by D3coy ugly chromed front grill. now i take points off. if the mirrors like Lynton posted which has the same base as bullet type than the old chap i talked to at dealership is not talking crap. And my early one may have came with them. But im putting black bullet type. as my argument is mine came with those ive seen an early car in person never touched and had those mirrors. Another z also had those. Bullet seem to appear first on the 432 in Japan. But there were early cars with black fender only thing is dont know if it was jap imported press car or localy sold. As bullet and door were avaliable as options and 99% of z cars don't have hard evidence as they were shown on showroom floor.So if u like black fender than it came with black fender or either one. You not going to loose points or win arguments. just not enough hard evidence to support either but they were all available at the time.

This fender mirror issue on aus delivered cars is going bananas. Ive seen sub 100 car original rusting to buggery but no mods on it had those style mirrors. Adr got nothing to do with as most 70s cars never had them and didnt have to comply. Adrs started late 71 or early 72 if im not mistaken an than rules increase exponentialy. From than onwards with updates in 74 76 and 77 with another big one in the 80s unleaded and cat converters etc. Now ive seen a picture of a test car in wheel/motor Magazine. Had same type mirrors above. Now from memory was a very early numbered car an could have been press import car. But saying that seen a later edition 71 wheel/motor mag and had black bullet type which indicate they had the bullet ones. An old nissan sales guy said that early 240z had come with fender mirrors chrome ones flappy ones and were very unpopular. Nissan offered to plug them with 180b style plugs And fit the door one this what my early girl had. The holes on my car are for the bullet type as flappy one have different base. So even his recollection is not 100% true. Other option was fender mirrors bullet type. Which were on nissan parts catalogue and were available but again not popular thing in the 70s. Other option they offered is to weld the plugs and respray guards and fit door mirror. This is what my 72 had as someone replaced with s1 parts Now this guy use to sell them new in the day. I saw him at dealership bout 5years ago and he saw my 260z parked there and we started chatting. Though he seemed good for memory recal and details my early girl dont support his theory for chrome fender mirrors. (I got my early girl bit later than our chat) Shortly after i ordered a set of fender mirrors only part number available was the bullet type black ones even though i thought was getting the chrome ones. But when i saw them im like stuff the other ones. So from what i can gather they are all corect and choose the option you like best. Some ppl preffer door some flappy and some bullet.

SH can go and get F. Freaking blind retards. Maybe drop it lower so scrapes on sand particles and have dodgy work and rust just to be cool. Oh they did that me bad lol.....tells you the mentality of retards there atm. Nah mate awesome ride. Done the way z should be done. I got the same front spoiler just arrived from japan. Be going on my 26oz. Fairlady grill be also on my list.

Welcome and poor Z... :'( Keep the L or at least stick to nissan family... Want a chev buy a chev or holden. That's what i did dont mutilate a 2 seater. Anyway just my 2c worth your car as im and advocate for "my car i do what i want". hybrid or electric engine dont bother me. Keep up updated with progress.

That is awesome story. Being so lucky tracking it down and back in yours posesion. I guess facebook does have its merits sometimes other than showing off whos got a bigger fake veener. Sorry not a fakebook fan. But story like that gives it a + . Now x 1000000000 more + before i consider it. Post pics and good to see another 2+2 bus being rescued.

For that price and clean they sell quick. Ive would have asked for at least 1k more if not more. 7-8.5k gets you a pig. Nice one still hover around 10k. Mine is ultra clean owned it for 15 years and its starting to turn heads again as most are thrashed out defect attractions these days. Police dont even bother even looking at it which is a bonus. Congrats on quick sale. Good to know they still good for resale.

Hey J those mirrors are different to usual bullet. As per article those are remote controlled. Came accross a set but exy. Love to see the switch for it. But personaly the 432 and 240zg style or early mirrors are the coolest. Love them.

This bus is getting more detailed work than my last one. Well it deserves it. Lots of boring pics but like to have it all documented for future use. More rusty bits cut out. Now who ever has compliance plate fitted in this location 99% it will have a rust hole behind it. As this position damages the inner seal and will cause corrosion. I moved to upper position as per my 76 model so no future rust causing possible. Air box all cleaned and treated. Re-seled and improved further so no chance of rust re appearing. Than entire area body shutz tar type and anticorrosive not water based. Replacement parts weld thru primed and enamel painted. Than welded back Oh Greg will want to see this original throttle bracket welded back in. Than bit of carboard as stencil for the difficult shaped parts Few trial fits and adjustments. Purist will notice the bigger hole. Well for future improvments intercooler piping will go through there. Welding few new bits in Final adjustments and weld through primer All welded in fairly happy with end result. Now lower rad support same treatment as air box with few extra draining holes. And final pic all weld ground and etch primed. Will coat entire rad support with body shutz. This will be daily so rain proofing it as much as possible and improving where nissan skimped out. Still to do few small section on rad support an refit the reinforcments. Than sand and get it ready for paint.

Now thats just sexy. Lot better with rear bar. Looks finished.

For a young chap Ryan you are an exception. Love the work and dedication you are putting in this car. Just amazing. This is how its done when budget is tight and mind set that has no limits. Trully amazing. You need big tap on the shoulder saying "Bloody good work" Im sure all of us older farts here are very surprised at your dedication and work. Very proud of you. Keep it up. Another great z in SA in the making.

The caffe van is comming along nicely. Few curve balls but im quickly adjusted for them. I ended up blasting the engine bay after all. Sand.......bloody sand everywhere. I knew was going to be messy inside workshop but had no other option.Weather here is crap so outdoor blasting was no option. Bit dusty inside but oh well. Than rusty bits removal. After vacuuming the air box of 36years of crap Than attacking it with renex as blasting was not an option at 9pm turning the air comp on.hammering was probably annoying enough for them. Still bit to go to remove every tracy of black or brown crap if not it will eventualy come back to haunt. But at 10:30pm age got the better of me. But still managed to fabricate the inner lower radiator panel. Still few more final touches to do and preping the outer panel before welding can start.

Nice work Gareth. Cant wait to hear it now on the track screaming past. One day.

White Z's are so sexy. Very clean car Jarrod. Time to bring her home i think and at least look at it in person and slowly do the changes. Plus gives us a chance to check her out. Valance looks like its been pushed to much in center and flattening it out.possible thecenter bracket is bit out of whack lightly. Small adjustments should improve it to keep ryan happy. Btw good spoting young Ryan.

yeah z-26 is coming along fine. got few more goodies for it today. so she be ready for next 36 years on the road without issues. yeah right yeah still got lots to do on her but so far so good

Bit of work done over the weekend. Due to silly weather gale force winds and rain any work i planned for outside went through the window. So rearranged the workshop and sqeezed the 260z inside. Didnt think was possible but it was. Took the engine out. And started stripping the entire front end. Also managed to get a l28 n42 combo from Greg and few other goodies. But on that later. Priority is fixin the front end and painting it asap. So more deconstruction Now probably wondering why did i fit a strut brace. Well because of this To fit the carbs the idiot installing it instead of extendg the manifold by 2" decided to bash the tower and skirt to fit. Fudging bush mechanics. As i was planing hammering the daylight out of it wanted to secure the tower so no risk of bending it. Wasnt bent as strut brace fitted straight on. Lot better now. Also striped the paint to metal in whole engine bay. Still few spots but ran out of paint stripper. Tonight finish the paint stripping, finilise the hammering and do some welding of extra holes the dodgy previous owners put on.

Not going to stay baby blue Gav. Bought paint today so decision has been made going white.

Thanks retroz. I giggled them got the info i was after cheers UPDATE: Well the l24 is in million pieces now. Spark is perfect occasionaly wanted to turn over but than nothing. It will flood crazily at cyl 6. Decided to take a comp readings and found the no comp what so ever on cyl1. Rest were all even at 95psi. So decided to take the head off and expected hole in piston or burnt valve. Well none of the above. When took the rocker coer head looks like to be freshly rebuild. Onve i poped the head off noticed the culprit. Seat on the valve poped out and ha te vale stuck open. Anyway easy tapped it back in place. Has copper gasket with a headgaskets on each side so 3 headgaskets. Cylinders look clean so do pistons. So i took the block out and going to clean the engine bay and hopefully respray it over the weekend (weather permitting). These are on the way from japan for it. But not the tyres. The stretch on those rims are 205/60/14 on a 10.5" rim. Bit too crazy. Im going for 245 or 255 if i can get my hands on them. As 6-9 week wait in transport for them ill fit my other watanabes on it for time being. Oh if anyone is interested in the turbo, carb, extractors, wastegate and dump pipe copper gasket make me an offer. Dont have time to troubleshoot it anymore. Also the l24 and the head will be also for sale if someone is interested.

Tryptech These are stainless steal wrapped in heat wrap. This only pic i have on my phone. Though just posted via sea so wont be here for at least 6-9weeks

S15 be bang for the buck expecialy jap Spec aero model if u can find a nice one. I find 350z quite ugly when you drive next to it.front part of the car disapears and looks like its missing its front end. 370 craps all over it. Also the 180 and s15 with light mods will blow it to weeds. Yeah i say wait till dec see what nissans answer to ft86 which i wish it had nissan badge and turbo straped . driven all of them for longer than 10min. Must say r33 gtr with bit of boost was my favourite besides the fat arse. Red is rare and looks tough.go for s3 But s15 handling and sr20det performance is cheap still awesome looking Just my 2c worth

cool cool will let you know how i go tomorrow. replaced/replacing the entire ignition system so that should be 100% add bit of fuel = should run. than I look at how well it starts and runs. i got a bad feeling therese no fuel regulation and has some sort of monster fuel pump. damn work. wan to go home now and check it all out.

Fuel pump haven't checked. stock one is still there but disconnected. havent been under the car yet to see it / but sounds like a holley blue chugging away in the back like a diesel. will find out tomorrow

yeah you are right its correct for blow through not suck through. oh that makes it easier i got a holley regulator already (somewhere lol) may give that a crack first. going to chuck a fuel pressure gauge see what pressure im getting. though it filled up a 2l bottle quite quick. so got bit of flow. assuming pressure will be right up there. Cheers mate.

Actually i do need as it has a turbo sitting right behind the carbies. on idle u get 2-3 psi and on boost 12-14si. With stock regulator will lean out on boost ping etc.... we all know what goes after that.

Ok more and more i dig about this setup the more interesting it is and more i want to get it going. Update. new plugs leads cap and rotor = no go. no different than before. suspect dying coil. bought new coil = find out later today if it works. rang few carby places for cost of carby kit/rebuild. kits from $30 each and rebuild best price 150-180 each. the guy was so nice about it that he gave me bd of history lessons of the setup. most times they used single stromberg or webber45. on the top of the range they used twin stromberg setup. apperently running approx 10-14psi pending on engine and they were nuts. also gave me the setup rules. ie to make sure fuel pump can supply 2psi or more than actual boost pressure. so if boost set to 10 psi fuel regulator has to be set to 2psi higher to 12psi. and u want a pump cabable supplying 16psi or more. as i dont have a fuel regulator and when i told him that fuel pisses out of carbies he said it could be over-pressurised. at idle shouldn't have more than 3psi. also could be that the seat and needle got gunk and need cleaning and not shutting off properly. First i need to get the engine to turn over. than we see the operation later. also going ot do comp check just to see if not comp issues. could be wasting lots of time on this engine. so ill find all that out tomorrow. Plan is get the engine to turn over make sure hasnt got any mayor issues like knocking or overheating issues. if all ok 1 .rip the engine and gbox out. 2. strip the engine bay and respray it. 3. clean the engine and turbo carby setup. send carby for rebuild. than put it all back together. after that is fixing the rust on the body and respraying it colour is going to be white. than add flares and rear wing brake upgrade at the front hilux joby. and by that time i probably need to drive it so rest will be done as a ongoing upgrade. ie console, carpet, radio, tint, steering wheel, gear knob.... oh anyone know where to get carpet kits from for 2+2 ?