Fairlady Z

hahahaha u guys crack me up. hmmm at least will smell njami from the back. nope OMP lines are hooked same way around. to think about it i never check if they correct . but omp was loosing lot of oil around the gasket. so took it off clean it up and used little bit of rtv or whatever its called on the old gasket as a temp fix. Ordered new gasket also new gasket for water pump (slight leak) and need to replace omp hose clamps not clamping hard enough. now not sure if the oil leak had anything to do with smoking but seems lot of oil had gone through the exhaust at some stage. but how and why? there was another two issues that occurred. I guess there's no point being smart with you guys as you helped me the most. so i let the secret out one was mentioned by one of the forum members regarding PCV valve and emission system. saying if not correctly hooked up will smoke. that issue #1. Most people have ripped out the pollution gear or car modded so no one really knows how it works and what it should look like. even though i rerouted 98% of the hoses as per service manual there was a pipe that looked redundant. Studied few of the emission diagrams between models and that pipe was just a routing pipe to make the system look neater. At some stage a normal mechanic didn't look at the emission diagrams and randomly placed stuff till he got a reasonable engine operation. 50% of hosing was incorrect or split. initially i just replaced the split ones. after got my hand on manual realised few things were out. after resealing OMP to stop the oil leaks, i routed all the emissions as per diagram. While cleaning the engine bay i found a piece of hose with an orifice that was part of the fuel tank. The orifice had a really small hole. the orifice is highlighted in the manual. so I replaced the hose and fitted the orifice. Now i was 100% sure the emission are hooked correctly. tested some of the solenoids and were operational. another hose was plugged from manifold to the solenoid while it should be open to air and manifold one plugged. started the car after refitting the rest of the gear on. hit the key started it warmed it up but wouldn't idle just stall. Played with idle air and mix setting till i got stable idle. Gave it few revs and was still backfiring and didn't like being revved. still no smoke and almost 1hr running. looked promising just needed to get to higher revs so i can repeat the previous smoking issue. check the timing and noticed that wast getting any signal from leading coil. What tha??. while trying to figure out why i noticed engine revs changed ran lot smoother and i was getting a flash from the timing light. re did the mixtures and idle as it was revving lot higher than before. and gave it few revs. it responded like a chain saw. light tap of accelerator and revs will shoot up almost instantly. hmmmm never behaved like this before. shut the bonnet and took it for a drive. it was almost 9:30Pm and dark but i could still see the street behind me. so increased the revs and still nothing. Booted it to 6K still nothing. kept giving it hard time and after 10min i started to see small amounts coming out but after 2-3 sec it disappear. drove around for another 10min and mostly clear only few puffs when really hard acceleration. but every time was less and less. got me thinking its residual still in the exhaust. when booted exhaust gets hot and start burning the oil inside. went home to check the fluids and plugs. oil lightly seeping from omp lines due to weak clamps. easy fix. coolant leak from water pump gasket . easy fix. oil out of the exhaust pipe nothing. out of the 3 tips 2 were dry and no wet or oily residue. one tip still had slight residue. pulled the plugs out and they were dry and clean all 4 of them. looking good. started it again and starts relatively easy. still the tune i believe is out of the whack as i tuned it just by feel and sound. need to get a gas analyzer and set the correct mixture settings. was very happy. As i was ready to hand out 2k plus for a rebuild. so saved 2k woohoo. it was too good to be true hence i kept it quiet that night and wanted to test the car during day time as i though maybe the smoking looked less due to being dark. so tested it yesterday driving around for a while. and only twice it puffed when i hit the rev buzzer. exhaust tips get so hot that u cannot touch them. Driving it normally around 3-4k max rpm . not one puff. exhaust not hot enough. no significant loss of coolant or oil. no smoke, start easy,. though was checking the coils while running and removed the high tension lead. it started to spark between high tension ad -+ terminals. looks like insulation is broken down. so will replace both coils and get new leads. clean the disy and hopfully spark will be as good as it can get. so it wasn't the Oil Control Seal but combination of things. 1.Leading spark plugs weren't operational. not complete burn = smoke fuel 2.Emission was incorrectly routed causing to suck extra oil out of the engine. (this could have been happening for some time, hence the oil in exhaust ) smoke oil 3. orifice missing from fuel tank possibly causing pressure differences and again possibly sucking extra fuel/oil (speculation but it wouldn't be there if it wasn't needed) Theory #1. car was last regod in 05. possibly being diagnosed as OCS and requiring build due to above last owner of 19 years and decided to just decided to upgrade after all that time. inside and outside state was sad and not nice. Someone bought it to rebuild it. to preserve the motor they poured oil into it. common practice. to protect the housings and stop stuck seals from occurring. Maybe decided to let it go and sold it to the person who i bought it off. they may have had it cleaned up and engine started while engine in oil burned out quickly lot of it still remained in exhaust. so while idling and cold no smoke. when exhaust gets hot we get oil burning. Theory #2 car had perished vacuum lines and was running badly. Original owner had it checked at some normal mechanic. He "fixed it" by plugging and routing lines just to get it to run good. plug this route that here yep its smooth fixed. Shortly after it started to smoke and probably diagnosed with Oil control Seal and expensive rebuild. Owner after 19years decided to part way. who know how many owner after that till i ended up with it. it seemed fine cold but due to extra oil through system accumulated in exhaust it never showed till exhaust gets really hot and starts smoking. this was the key difference from Oil control seal failure which initially happens on cold start or prolong off period. 5 forums and 3 rotor buffs confirmed. but when i asked i don't have that i got the opposite. some ummed and hummed while others started talking crap and making stuff up or saying it can happen the other way too. i refused to believe that cause across 4-5 rotary forums no mention of this anywhere. car would have idled for hours without smoke. its when gets bit hot. as not many standard cars around with all pollution gear on it most people didn't come across this problem. Though the engine is a beast. little 1.1L after 3K just want to go. The more revs the more power you get. She not backing off at all till the little rev buzzer tell u to back off. So smooth. quite fun car highly recommend it. be perfect partner to a 240Z similar size a bit lower in body height more comfort features. Definitely not my last Rx7 and last rotary. Wouldn't mind a hotted up version S3 Rx7 and want back an Rx4 Coupe in my collection. as impressive as Mazda is still nothing beats the Z. but it could be a good investment and very cool drive. so keep an eye out for a lost one selling for nothing. they quite cheap these days. Tip: look for good interior as its hard to find undamaged dash or trim bits. red interior is worse for wear. browns and blacks seem to be better and more common. but red on red is just right or if you can find silver or white with red. nice combo in my opinion. now see if i have any bites on my $1 guesses.

Cmon Mick i know how to put correct level of oil and also know what 710 stands for. Nope.

Ok just finished my 45min drive. Even did few jobs arons with it. I can say she don't need a rebuild at least not at the moment. Smoking issue has resolved and almost non existant. She need few bit updated and few leaks addressed mainly water pump omp hoses and a decent tune. As i know few probable causes of the smoke issue like to see who can figure it out out of our resident rotary guys. Maygz i refused to believe and i was right. Devil was in the detail but in totaly different area. So even my bogus theory wasnt as correct but outcome was same it wasnt the oil control seal that everyone was telling me. Few things just didnt make sense till now. Anyway feel free to guess and there may be a prize for correct answer. I recon u guys got better chance that rotary forums. I should play a game on rota forums. $1 entry for $50 prize for correct answer. By time someone gets it i probably buy 2x late model rx7 by the time i give the $50 away Being cooky now i know ;D

Cheers Agno if I ever decide to sell it be posted here first. But when my other projects a finished i think i get a s3 and make it bit of a monster with group c kit big wheels and 13b turbo motor unless i find a good rx4 coupe than i have my two fav mazdas. No work on it tonight except test drive went good few minor issues to tackle with engine and than finish the insides. Had a late one last nite so tonight rest and early bed time.

280zx overweight piece of crap??? hell NO. like you i preferred the 280zx over the earlier z car. (some 17yrs ago) even got one of my teachers to buy one for himself. he asked which one. i said 280zx for same reasons as you mentioned power everything and looked more modern. so he took my advice. Hes probably cursing me now anyway. 240 vs 260 240 is the original and probably most recognised Z car. even when i had 260 people were saying oh 240Z or Z car. 240Z has different dash different door trims, different size engine and carbies. different rear light to a 260z 2 seater and slightly lighter than 260z. other than that they appear identical I personally prefer 240z rear light and dash. looks lot more sporty. You pay for not having a/c but you soon learn these cars are not for lounging but driving and enjoying the car and the road. Want a sofa get a big yank tank or ozzy taxis. ie commodore falcon. want a smile on your face put the window and foot down and enjoy the music and hot wind. 260z 2+2 is slightly longer with a rear seat for people less than 50cm tall. or if u dont mind moving front seat forward so your knees touch the dash to fit adults. saying that i did have 4 adults in my 2+2 and wasn't as bad. though im tall and wasn't that comfortable but doable. ur kids can come for a ride too hence the popularity of them in the mid 70s. more practical car. drives well and to the ones that dont know couldnt tell the differance. Due to extra lenght 2+2 appear to have a hump on the roof which looses the sleekness of the 2 seater. its not noticable at first but if you have each one side by side 2 seater's are lot more elegant. 280zx 2+2 like ones we got here are similar to the 260z 2+2 bit long and a bit hunchback. 280z 2 seater or Fairlady Z S130 in Japan are 2 seater versions and they look damn nice. similar thing happens to Z31 and Z32. though Z32 I preffer 2+2 due to the width of the car and 2 seaters look a bit stumpy. on the end of the day I like them all. as long as it has the Nissan and Z badge. Before i bought my rx7 for a daily i was looking for a 280zx 2 seater or fairlady Z 280zx 2+2 or Z31 200ZR. price or condition didn't seem to fall in my expectations. so ended up with S2 Rx7 as always had a soft spot for them. very similar to a z just more refined. I'm glad i did. incredible car but not for people that don't know to work on them or have small budgets. 280zx are more affordable than the earlier ones but eventually they will climb up and have been climbing up in price in last few years. Get what you like if not good with hands save more money and buy a good example wont be cheap but it will work out cheaper than buying a bucket and fixing it to respectable levels i'm sure someone else will chip in their views.

yeah i wanted to buy that few months ago when it was on gumtree. asking price was 2800 than. car was located 650+km from Adelaide. called him requested photos of rust area so i can make an offer. but he never responded when i asked for pics in certain areas. before that kept rambling on about rarity this and that and if i pay 3K he get the car delivered to Adelaide but cash up front. I said no till i see pics and make the evaluation myself. never heard back. Looks like car has been delivered to Adelaide with 2K price inflation and better pics showing how bad the rust areas are. he did mention that he "Fix" and sell it for higher. so not sure what he fixed on it. but when i asked him how. i didn't like the answers. anyway only buy if u get it inspected. can help if anyone is interested.

Still alive still working on it. Have a little setback with it with engine issues which i discussed on other thread. Think its mostly sorted but confirmation tonight and few days to come but signs a looking good. Cars regod and can be driven. Though first test drive was disaster with smoking out the neighbourhood. Was lucky didnt get pulled over smoke screening a police car. Anyway few little pic of progress: Interior install Lowered lovells and delco shocks to improve the looks with low profile tires Also got new ball joints bushes and tie rod ends Droped down its actualy tad lower since settling than these pics Done few more things on inside but didnt take pics as engine issues took priority. Prob more updates soon and a video. Hopefully be finished by the weekend completely and than onto next project.

Yeah sounds like a good plan dat2kman. Will definetly do that and have a spere motor just incase. I agree fidly but not hard. One guy wasbragging it takes him 3hrs to assemble it. Cleaning sorting takes time but not 3.5k worth. U got more cleaning and sorting on piston engine. Just its common knowledge and nobody makes a big deal. Rotas unusal and ppl dont like it. Maygz cheers for links did see some of them. Im going try and find a 12a to keep originality. Not interested in mods or power on this car. My 2 other projects will be kw monsters. So no one guessing what my 12a issue was? I did say i was hoping devil is in the detail but no one picked it up. My 2 theories were also wrong to a point. Do have new thoeries that don't sound too bogus but still to confirm tonight. But im 98% certain it aint the oil control seals. Few ideas i got from dat and dazda and few other replies from other forum. But dazdas comment was little bit of an eyeopener. maygz for support of the silly theories. They do work. My other moto: look at everything assume nothing. If im correct this would be my second engine that pointed to a rebuild and wasn't the case. First one still going strong after 4yrs of people telling needs a rebuild. Just hope a find a cheap 12a with same symptoms gladly buy it.

Gav yeah its really smokey. what gets me its not smoking at all when cold and OCS issues first seem to pop up when cold. confirmed over and over. but still early days. did some work on it last nite. not going to say the results just yet in-case i was dreaming and wake up to the nitemare. regarding 4.5K cheap for 75kw engine i think its out of this planet. gaskets/seal kit is 1.1K so u telling me on a rota there is more work than on 6cyl piston engine with performance parts . and 3.4K labour cost? ridiculus. i think they just milking it cause of the niche market and everyone is scared of word rotary. bit like when you mention turbo to some ppl. Noticed lot of rotary owners don't know anything about them. They just cough up the $$$ for crazy prices for work on their simple engines. what pissed me off is i saw a GTR for sale with fresh rebuild with performance parts with reputable shop costing 5K. this for an improved engine not a stock rebuild. this upgrade gained performance and cost 5K. this thing gain more kw than the total rota has. everyone says rotaries easy to work on than piston but yet they charge ridiculous prices. What tha? anyway few things to confirm tonight than we have a little game: Guess the issue? it be fun. PS Gav, whats going with donations??? not working ,wanna chip in.

Shhhhhhhhhhh....... Not saying anything yet.

cheers Dazda.. i know what you saying. but still. i think the labour cost with rotaries is very overinflated. regarding SR20DET conversions. not a big deal done a few. know to do most of it so biggest expense is getting motor and gearbox with loom and ecu air flow meter etc....1500-2000 pending on model second cost is tailshaft to be made to suit approx cost $250 fabrication can do myself. wiring can do myself. fuel pump and surge tank. if have all the bits i recon it be in and running in 2 days. regarding back to the 12A. im going ot fix the OMP leak put it back together tonight and see what happends. may change the oil for something thicker. see if anything can prolong it for few weeks. try find another 12A or 13B so i can replace it as soon as the current one start to blow again. (that's assuming thicker oil and fixed OMP is successful for short term) if cannot find anything and seem to hold together still hopefully gives me enough time to fix my other car. than if it blows don't care, pull it appart check it and if seems fixable buy the seal kit and rebuild it properly. invested enough time and money in it not worth abandoning it now. if parting it now i loose too much. may as well keep the sucker. do like the car intrigued by the rotary and always wanted to rebuild one. just not right now.

thanks guys. here are the prices from local guys. 4.5K 4.5k 4.5K see a pattern? called revs, jazmac, mildrens etc...... freaking OUCH. though Jazmac was most helpfull thanks Ledge and Mick. As much as i don't want to hear it got to get in terms that the oil control seals are gone. DAT2KMAN so you suggest to just get the seal kit and rebuild it myself? seems the cheapest and quickest option. Seem easier than piston engine. i rang another privateer that is good with rotaries, and same answer as jazmac and revs oil control seals. still looking approx 4weeks waiting and not much return of 2K if my housing rotors and side plates are ok. which is a big Question. knowing my luck im going to assume its stuffed. no idea what to do. risk 1K+ of seals and do it myself it be like those drink driving jokes. Drink and drive u bloody idiot. Drink and drive and make it home you are legend. that be same with me. rebuild rotary yourself and you an idiot. rebuild it and works you are legend. got to joke with the bad situation. just wrong timing for me to rebuild the motor. no time. maybe try some of the band aids and hopefully reduces smoke for few weeks till my other project is complete than rebuild the motor at less pressured time. that way i can give it a good shot and not stuff anything up. buy another 12A in good condition but how do u trust it. fit a 13B found one through jazmac rebuild but 3.5K still ouch. or buy a Sr20DET for 1.5K and have it screaming over a weekend. dillema. now wished i never bought the damn thing and stuck with datsun/nissan.

cheers. yeah i didn't think i was going to like it. some anwrs for u. no idea on the KMS, car had two previous owners (both females) last owner had it since 89. at some stage motor was replaced as its not genuine one from original paperwork. not sure when and what has been done. car is done around 350k kms. still original exhaust beats me how that survived. seems to be serviced regularly but it has been dorment since 2005. where history stops. Radiator seems reasonable new brake rotors look newish as well. so seems to had some money spent on it. and to own it for 16 years must have been in love with it. though interior was shot and body had better days when i got it. no didn't own its since rebuild or replacement. yeah was thinking of doing it myself as i don't realy want to spend 4k on rebuild. they don't look that complex. only risk is its 1.2K worth of seals good enough gamble for me if i got someone to guide me if i get stuck than its worth the gamble. also need a car badly as im still hitchiking to work via few workmates. I realy only expected 3 month out of it and than if it blew didn't care. fix it in my spare time. ill try the above fix the leak clean the exhaust and see what happens cheapest option at the moment. if its waste of time well at least i tried. any recommendations where to get the seal kits from? ie price only ones ive seen is mazda for 1.4k or phils rotaries for around 1.1k thanks

heheh so im not the only one with bizzare theories woohohoo. did it ever work? No turbo all standard with all the emission gear bit of a dogs breakfast. yeah basically planning to do what u said besides driving around neighbourhood or you. dont worry im like 750Km+ away . just inspect the pipes and clean them . fix the oil leak and hope for the best. but don't like my chances like DAT2KMAN is explaining. smoke seems to be more evident from the polution pipe ie 3 pipes at the back of the car. Twin tip muffler and a single p shooter welded next to muffler. this is the pipe that has the oil near the connection. but occassionaly does smoke out of the muffler and seems bit oily deposit on the tips. so not looking good.

Unbelievable you guys ROCK! in less than 8 hrs I get 4 responses. THANKS HEAPS. warning long boring read. but details are there for a reason. I spent lots of time trying to work out what the problem is. some things are hard to explain and don't make sense and no similar example to be found on the net. Well spent considerable time sifting through crap on the major rotor forums. Don't get me wrong there's couple of smart guys there but very hard getting response from them. over 2 days still not a decent educated or valid response. I got a smoking issue with my stock 12A carby with stock exhaust. ( ill explain later why exhaust is important) Only smokes when revved harder or when under load after few kms and starts smoking when back at idle. than smokes for a while and eventually reduces but lightly present. now from what i've read from the forums in summary. White smoke cane be : condensation, coolant or brake/trans fluid. Black blue smoke: Can be too rich with fuel smell Blue smoke: Oil burning with distinct oil smell very similar to piston engines. other: things that seem repeating when rotaries smoke. White: condensation or failed water seals (indicated by loss of coolant), also failed seal in master can suck up brake fluid or in autos trany fluid. NOT in my case for last 3 brake fluid hasn't moved and its manual so no auto fluid. coolant level hasn't moved so white smoke at cold is condensation in my case which goes away when normal temps are reached. Blue/Black fuel: running rich blowing black smoke when floored. This was true in my case. initially new spark plugs were quite black. cleaned them and put them back in and reduced the mixture. After over 1hr running time pull the plugs out and were cleaner than when i put them in 3 out of 4. 4th one was bit wet assuming its where in the cycle it stopped and hasn't ignited the fuel. Blue smoke oil. This can happen when oil control seal fail, Oil Pump Metering (OMP a small oil pump that injects small amount of oil into carby to lube the apex seals) is stuck on full and injecting too much oil in the fuel. When lightly stuffed seals when cold engine will blow bit of blue white smoke. on more stuffed it will blow smoke when cold than go away and come back again when hot. My scenario is slighlty different. No smoke when cold. or for at least 40min of idling just steam for few minutes till normal temp reached. also evident by water droplets from pipes. Was rich initially when high revs or under load black smoke no oil smoke. when backing off and back to idle once warmed up (realy well or revved to 5k+ or under spirited driving) it start bellowing smoke at the back blue/white for next 20-30sec. than reduces. (from what ive read if oil control seals it wont reduce just smoke till driven again) Disconnected the OMP lines so no oil goes to carby. OMP works not exessive but smoke still present. Point back to oil control seals. after 5min shut down when heavily smoking, engine started and no smoke for over 5min idle. started driving no smoke for 5min than comes back. bit of a irregular pattern here not corresponding to rotary heads on the forum. as i stopped and shut the car of and lifted the bonnet i noticed smoke bellowing from the tunnel accross the engine for next 5min. checked under the car and there was an oil leak from one of the pollution pipes that are from the thermal reactor going back to the front pipe. big nut thats t pieced into the main exhaust. HMMM where the oil coming from? checked the engine and leaking from the front out of the OMP than seeping along the sump, getting on this pollution pipe. Theory 1 was, oil is going through the exhaust and that its cooling and liquifying near the connector due to lower pressures and temps and seeping down. ok. sounds possible. At this stage i pulled the plugs out see if the black or oily and as previously mentioned they were clean. for that much smoke to be poring out i'm certain it would have been black. theory 1 is bit ?? i decided to remove that pollution pipe and to inspect it. after removal the flanged end that is hooked to reactor was clean just carbon build up. the pipe inside seemed clean as well all the way to the nut that has a seal similar to brake lines. this nut has been on the car for over 30year. initially was thinking it be impossible to remove. but it was easy and almost loose. On the front pipe side as i removed the pipe and nut. on the inside of the nut there was lot of oil. and roughly about 3mm inside the small pipe. i inspected the front pipe and had oil covered on the T extension. I inspected to see if any oil in the front pipe. there was none. seemed clean and dry just carbon build up. so My pressure theory is not that great so all this may sound stupid or myth. But trying to explain how oil gets into the exhaust. Kinda explains in general if oil gets into the exhaust wont smoke till the pipe gets hot than it starts smoking. from the little pipe i couldn't see evidence of oil in the system. so must be inserted somewhere along the line. when under load more heat heats the exhaust + oil present = smoke. now how does oil get in Theories: 1. Oil control rings leaking and entering combustion chambers gets shot out the exhaust and Theory 1 is valid as previously discussed. Issue with this is No evidence of oil in the pollution pipe or on the spark plugs, no smoke when totally cold at start up as expected with damaged seals, there is oil evident at the muffler though. 2. Oil leaking from OMP at the front of engine (leaking a fair bit actually) seeping along the engine running down the pipe near the loose end. pressure differences (somehow create a suction) and oil gets fed into the front pipe. once exhaust gets hot +introduced oil =Smoke. Sounds far fetched to me. but supports the evidence of no oil in the pollution pipe before the nut connection and clean plugs. now its either the oil control seals are stuffed and engine needs a rebuild. or this OMP leak is getting in the exhaust. and burning when gets hot. i'm going to pull the reactor off tonight and front pipe and inspect if oil residue is present before or after the reactor pollution pipe. if clean at the reactor but oily after the pipe, clean plugs, relative easy starts, after 5min of cooling didn't smoke, No smoke at start up all point to supporting theory 2. confusing mysterious and plain annoying. was lucky the police didn't pull me over last nite smoking them out of the rear vision mirror. was my lucky nite. as i said detailed steps I went through trying to figure out this thing. maybe i'm dillussional and refuse to believe engine oil seal are gone. sorry for the long arse read but I think devil may be in the detail. do have pics of most of the stuff i dribbled ill upload them when i can. Help greatly appreciated. any new theories or flogging mine as insanity and stupidity is quite welcome. Thanks MaygZ ill PM DAZDA bit later. DAT2KMAN what u make out of this??? Thanks Mick im hoping to find someone local that isn't a shop a Guru that knows from experience and not interested in ripping ppl off. Don't mind paying for services but like to learn along the way. Contacted few shops and i will refrain what i think of them for time being. Peter ill try calling but from what i've seen from local guys here,advice is very hard to get. just want to figure what it is before jumping to the deep end. not backing out worse case scenario will be shoving an Sr20DEt for 50% power increase and economy and 100% reliability for the same cost of just buying the seal kit for the 12A. paying 4K for rebuild for a 75kw engine is bit silly. may even get a good 13B turbo for half the price of rebuild. last me 2yrs ill be happy. but rather just keep the original stuff. cheers

If you know someone resonably well i hope that is good with rotary engines expecialy 12a please send me the details. Got few issues with it and need some advice. Other rotary forums dont have the answers and not many replies.Bit desperate and need answers quick. now even considering replacing it with sr20det Thanks in advance

Mick if 6 bolt its non LSD 4 stud hubs LSD have 4 bolt driveshafts only on turbo models with 5 stud wheel hubs.

damn dreamers. What a cheap tough Z. Shouldn't need luck to sell Tim....but Good luck anyway. patience. is it advertised on carsales/gumtree? I had good run with gumtree lately.

Cant wait to see this bad boy all bolted up. And congrats on 30th anniversary. Thats impressive I had my 14th with one of my cars in Sep. not as impressive as you but mine is still driving

That car is Z porn Dave. Kudos to you. As always very well done. Used Khalid as well for my seat covers for z32. Not bad but you have to improve the cushions if it looks wrinkly. Know the hard work you went through. I had even rear seat to do as well. Still after 2.5 yrs not wanting to do a set again. But will use him again for my other z.

Nice work. Good to see more people actualy fabricating pieces from a plain sheet. Once you get the hang of it you be making panels like Ledge does.

Awesome Chris. Looking good bet u cant wait till its all painted and then fun of putting together.

Cheers Dimitri, kinda spewing that I should have taken more time getting the body ultra straight. but than its more of a weekend cruiser on sunny day than car u park anywhere and don't care about. Most of it has turned out better than expected. only downfall is few waves and dents I missed or couldn't be bothered fixing. Maybe few yrs down the track I may re-doo the body so its ultra straight when value hopefully climbs a bit and woth the effort. I think I invested tad too much in it both time and $$

yeah sorry for dumping all this at once but its only spare time i had in last few days. Been sick most of the week so no work done till weekend where i put in over 30hrs in 2 days. I'm kinda hitching a ride with workmate at the moment and its not on the way so feel bad. so this has to be on the road next 2-3 days. car is registered with new cool plates. but cannot share the plate info on public forum. :'( and more pics. Boot section with all the wiring checked re-taped, new seal for tailights and hatch, new drain hoses , new speakers for my 1MW Stock clarion FM radio and autoreverse tape deck than to change the scene I kicked of my interior rejuvenation plan. As my interior was collected from various cars that were physically in usable condition. As expected colors were all but red. For some reason red ones seem to be the worse for wear and finding suitable red was next to impossible. So needed it all color matched. I used again my friends from Viponds and their fully sick product Tautflex DIY. As local supplier has been added to history books with the dinosaurs . I sent a color sample to head office in Victoria and 4 days latter paint was delivered to my door. what a service. You Victorians lucky B......... was also lucky to find an un-cracked original dash for a steal of $120 not the right color but not for long. now all painted dash cracked vs replacment While waiting in-between coats (approx 30min) i was removing the old stuff and adding it to the pile of things to be painted. on the end 98% of interior plastics have been coated. Seats out and dash out. bit of PITA for the dash cover. now with that all done it needed 24hrs of drying time so next day I tackled the wheels and suspension clean up and servicing of cooling and lubricating system. wheels too me it looks lot better in satin black than the silver. Radiator flushed and cleaned new thermostat and new hoses about to go in tonight. than oil change. This is stage1 of the engine bay clean up. I just need Dash and driver seat so I can get to work and back. The rest of the engine clean up will be done at later stage, so as new shocks ball joints and tie rod ends. these things are known for fuel thirst but they also thirsty for $$$ to get everything up to scratch. Still OK will have a stock clean(ish) RX7 for less than 5k.

than more cleaning detailing and servicing can begin. small video I uploaded to my photobucket as an experiment. not sure how good it is. but i think orientation is wrong so i fix it later when i figure how. after I washed the engine I though be good to hear it run and to drive it out of the hole I dropped the front wheels in. (so if link dont work dont worry ill upload elsewhere. CLICK ON THE ABOVE PIC TO SEE VIDEO clean the condensor and horns and bit of paint to make them look new. front bar added old windscreen out new one in and rear 1/4 glass stuck on. after wash engine bay pics (before clean up pics) Hunt for new wheels in a spear of the moment after finding out how much 13" tires cost. finding anything for early RX is next to impossible due to 4x110 PCD and than finding it cheap. Luck was on my side and found these 15x6.5 italian made wheels BW??? something for a bargain. After a quick test if they fit I went to pick the rest of them and get some tires I found at good price. nothing special but its legal. I did improvement's later on them stay tuned