44014

Is fitted to a matching numbers original 71 lhd 240z

What is it ? What does it do?

You will need to flare it to fit those rims. These are 17x10 -39 And 17x9 -29

My wheels are for sale...$1200

There only for the foot vent? Depends how hot your passengers feet get?

http://www.willtheyfit.com

15x7.5 + 27 would be well inside the guard. I would be concerned about that hitting the spring perch. These are 16x8.25" -0 And they fit with the guards rolled to give you an idea.

Correct! But make a great compromise for a performance road tyre. I like them because they have a the semi slick look, provide good traction on the road. But don't wear out in 2 drives like yokohama Advans do. But obviously no where near the grip of a advan. DOUG........ ^^^^^^^

Is that all we are to you Gav? An avatar?

This how we roll... Deal!

Doug......

I like it Stivv, there not the flares I would fit but then again there are probably a lot of haters out there for my car as well. Build the car for yourself, if other people like it , cool otherwise they can can make there own zed how ever they like. Cheers Doug

Xxr

I have a set of 16x8.25 wheels with near new kumho ku36 semi slicks on them. $1200

That and he is fat..

If anything the t3 stuff is over engineered and a lot more " heavy duty " then it has to be. The caster arms at no where near max adjustment have my front wheels just about hitting the front of my guards. How much caster do you want?

The wheels are not a good topic I let Jake take them so he could keep the car movable and he then sold the car with my wheels on it. .... Was not happy to say the least. The wheels are work e wings 3 piece and they were unbelievably light.

I have some 16x8.25 rims and tyres for sale ?

I had it for sale near rockhamton probably about 12 years ago then Jake (D3c0y) bought it off me and it sold on the Gold Coast a out 10 years ago.

I believe Magnus on here owns my old #160

Doesn't have flares, doesn't have fender mirrors, doesn't have a l28 with triples . To top it all off its a bad colour with a even worse colour interior! Paint it red, flare it and put on some watanabes could ask 45 for it

Staying at the same rpm means you are cruising and have minimum throttle opening. This in turns will mean you have a lower compression due to the butterfly's in the carbs/throttle body not letting much air into the engine. This will allow the compression rings to relax and not push against the walls of the cylinder evenly or with much pressure. So before there is a chance for the rings to bed and find there " groove " there is a chance the rings could walk and possibly align the ring gaps and greatly reducing the performance of the engine. Cheers Doug

No need to start and run it for 20 min at first start up as that's how you run the cam in. All i have ever done is take it for a short drive using about half to 3/4 throttle every where and only going about half way through the rev range. take it home and check it over for leaks and loose bolts. Then flog the pussy out of it. it will bed the rings in better with high revs and full acceleration due to the higher combustion pressures getting behind the compression rings and forcing them onto the cylinder walls harder. There is science behind this. Worse thing you can do is drive it gently when its fresh. But you will also get a million different responses about this topic. Most are outdated and have no credential other then "that's what i was taught" Look at every performance engine and think what the first thing that is done to them... Run at max load at max rpm on a engine dyno. Machining tolerances are much better these days and there is no need to "wear thing in"before being able to put load on them. After first drive change the oil ( use cheap mineral oil for run in about 500km ) then change to a good quality synthetic. Cheers Doug

Annndddd a few more

Few pics I took on the day.