fluegel

I will try and return the coil for refund or one of the coils with the ballast resist ie a MSD ballast 2 PN8200 or buy that new resistor on ebay. I am running a Bosch GT 40 . The existing ballast resist disconnected because of loose terminals

Just bought an MSD blaster 3 coil from Autobahn. Can I fit it to my 1976 260z which has stock standard points ignition and if so will it work without messing up the old distributor and do I remove the ballast resistor. It all started because I couldn't find a replacement ballast resistor, so they sold me the coil instead because it doesn't require a ballast resist.

I've got the manifolds off on my 260z to check for exhaust leaks as discussed in a previous topic 'clacking noise'. The problem appears to be caused by a warped exhaust manifold. I had the face linished years ago and it is still flat but I found that the front and rear exhaust ports are hardly covering the gasket at the bottom where there appears to be a leak. Checking with a straight edge the ports are not in a straight line and also the gasket does not fit exactly ie the front and rear ports are too high by about 3mm each. Obviously the manifold is warped so that the ends are higher the the middle. Are there still straight ones out there or do I have to fit custom extractors, I would rather keep things original, a spare I have is also warped in the same way. Richard

It is two sprockets top and bottom http://www.rhdjapan.com/kameari-l-type-twin-idler-gear.html

I have just removed the Kamiari tensioner system and would like to contact Gareth as he was interested in buying them about November 2013. The archive of old personal messages seem to have disappeared. Richard

I moved the holes in the tensioner casting i.e. they enable the tensioner to be closer to the chain by about 2mm the holes have positive stops so it can't slide back to the old position I slotted the top hole for the curved guide and the oil slot groove still covers the supply hole in theengine block . I am confident oil is getting to the plunger, moving the curved tensioner closer in at the top slot took up most of the slack and the plunger projects no more than2-3mm. I was wondering if I should have fitted a soft washer behind the plungers rubber block so that it was in contact with the casting as the manual says 0mm clearance but they are probably have a relatively new engine in mind. Looking down into the front space everything looks good and there are no funny noises coming from there as well. I have set the ignition timing to 16deg advances with 98 fuel which is great for extra power but I would prefer the original head specs i.e close to original thickness and therefor original compression ratio. I have a couple of heads which I will eventually get recond with this in mind. Richard

The noise I am getting sounds just like the video. I'll do a compression test to check if it may be valves if that shows OK I'll replace the manifold gasket which I got quite fast at doing as it always was a problem. Any suggestions as to the best way to stop further leaking. Thanks, Richard

I started up the 260 Z today and noticed at idle I can hear a clacking noise intermittently it mostly goes away when I rev the engine. I took the cover off and and went through the messy process of running the engine to check the oil bar jets were all working. I noticed that two were partially blocked so I took the oil bar off and squirted it out with carby cleaner and compressed air. When I put things back I went through the messy process again and noticed that the rear jet was a bit sluggish compared to the rest which were all working, I didn't rev the engine again. Some time back I had had the head properly reconditioned with new rockers fitted and the valve stems equalized for height do that the cam lobes are centered on the rocker pads. Because the head had had 3mm shaved off I fitted a Kamiari twin sprocket chain tensioner set which I have now removed and refitted the standard tensioning system with suitable modifications as described in previous posts, so that works well. I have never heard how the reconditioned head should sound on this engine because originally a couple of the cams were coming off the rocker pads and hitting the steel giving a regular tappet type sound. I fitted the kamiari tensioner straightaway so I couldn't hear what the camshaft should sound like because the noise of the sprockets and chain drowned everything out. I haven't readjusted the vale clearance. I need to know if everything is normal with this engine , is there anyone in Adelaide I could take the car to to reasure me the engine is OK or not. Richard

I used to be driven mad by oil leaks from the rear of the rocker cover in several datsuns I tried cork gaskets ,fibre gaskets with silicone or holden gasket cement nothing really worked. I finally sorted the problem here's how first check the mating faces on the cover are really clean and free from old gasket check that the top of the head and rocker cover faces are dead flat, you can do this by loosely bolting on the cover with no gasket and check for gaps with a fine feeler gauge.Take the cover off if all is well and wipe any oil from the mating faces then give them a clean with lacquer thinner. Put your fibre gasket in place with no sealant replace the bolts and torque from the center out to about 7 ft-lbs don't over tighten. Redo the tightening sequence to the same torque they will probably turn a bit more do it again until the bolts will tighten no more it is probably a good idea to start the initial tightening at a lower tension like you do with cylinder heads. After a few days driving check the bolts again for correct tightness they will probably turn a bit and maybe do it again some time later. The cover should not leak after this . I don't like gasket sealant because you have to scrape it off if you have to replace the gasket. Richard

Iv'e been there basically I soaked them with CRC and then hammered them out with a brass drift. The problem in my case ,and I suspect in other cases, is not rust but the tapered lock pin(cotter pin). When I got the spindle out the flat in the middle has been skwished to one side by the spindle being tightened too much at one end pulling the spindle hard against the lock pin. So when you tighten up the nuts at each end of the spindle do it progressively each end till you get to the final torque settings and do use antiseize. I replaced the spindles with new ones anyway.

Try this supplier http://www.zcarsource.com/ I bought my rubber from them. For the front I used nissan rubber control arm bushings and after market rubber tension rod bushings. For the steering rack and sway bar I used urethane . For the back they sell an entire rubber set.

Don't forget to bleed the master cylinder as well

I know someone who had side impact bars installed in her MG B doors, would that help in an S30.

sorry trying to delete this one

I think the rocker faces are cast iron and not hardened whereas the cams are nitrided so you have the ideal bearing situation of hard against soft. Some people simply regrind rockers with wet and dry paper on a sheet of glass. Re. shaved heads the present head on my 260 engine has had 3mm shaved as a result I have had to fit a twin sprocket tensioner set up. I am going to remove it some time and try the trick of moving the curved guide in closer by filing out the bolt holes and doing the same with the tensioner at the bottom. If that doesn't work I have an E88 head which I will get reconditioned

Cyanoacrylate (eg superglue )works well on joining rubber seals.

Is this an original gear shift plaque for 260 Z

Is there any difference between door cards on a 2 seater and a 2+2. I have been thinking of making a mold for my door cards which which are 2+2. I had an idea to use thick cardboard and wet it then clamp it on a mold. After it is dry you could saturate it with west system epoxy to stiffen it. This may work although the heat moldable plastic may be better.

I have used lead for years, I am not good at applying it but if you get enough thickness on the panel it will cut back very easily with a sharp body file and you sweep up the filings to remelt. It is important to pre- tin the panel ,which must be really clean and bright, with 50/50 (or 60/40) solder using bakers fluid as a flux, the body lead will not stick on its own to steel. You spread it when it goes pasty with a block of wood and some sort of lubricant such a sterine. I think you can build up thicker layers than bog without it falling off, it is my experience that it is very permanent. If you make your own alloy it is 70% lead and 30 % tin you can make it using 50/50 solder adding lead to the melt. you need to calculate the quantities. Crash supplies in Adelaide also sell it in sticks. Richard

The quick and easy way is to use Hammerite it will go over rust but you need to brush it as it doesn't spray . I used it for my recent rebuild of the suspension of my 260. Richard http://www.hammerite.com.au/

A car backed into my front bumper and bent and dented it in the middle . it had been damaged and straightened when I bought the car. If someone has one in reasonable condition I would be interested I would get it rechromed if it needs it. Richard

For the record I've got KYB 361003s in the rear and 361002s in the front. The springs are what came with the car and are captive at full droop. The car is a 1976 2+2. Richard

I haven't bothered with dust boots they can cause more trouble than they are worth. When they eventually split the dirt will get in and stay at the bottom grinding away at the piston rod. Richard

The past 9 months I've been busy on and off redoing the suspension on my 76 2+2. I did the back first with 8 new Nissan rubber bushes in the control arms and urethane for the sway bar and mustache bar. New KYB shockers from Datsport at $500 the set, painted most bits with hammerite. the ride was generally harder until I did the front when things seemed to balance out so the ride is now firm but no nasty jarring to mess with our baby boomer backs, the back suspension took about a month. The front took 33 days with some breaks new nissan rubber bushes in the control arms and rubber for the radius rods new ball joints throughout and I even got the steering rack reconditioned just to be sure, I greased the top bearing of the steering columm The rest of the bushing is urethane also new thrust bearings in the struts and new shockers of course. The steering is really nice particularly coming into a long curve at the top of the SE freeway it is still heavyish compared to power steering but was considered to be light in its day. Bump steering has completely gone. I now intend to replace the hard urethane bushes in the mustache bar with original rubber as they are useless to absorb shock and vibration from the diff. I think redoing the suspension and steering is well worth the time and cost because the car handles, rides and steers like a new car. Richard

I suppose so, A guy I knew decided to test the range of his tank by driving till empty but he came from Melbourne and the car was a Peugeot 404