fluegel

After buggering the thread on one with a makeshift puller I tried the other side. I got the locking pin out and skwirted lots of PO in the hole (blocked off the bottom with my finger) the oil disappeared up the bore, lots of it, I left it a bit and was able to hammer it out with a 1/2" brass drift. BTW the strut and trailing arm were out of the car.

I will buy them for $300 as i should be able to organise freight picked up from your door. Let me know

I may be interested, but I live in Adelaide. Richard

The thing is that old cars particularly from the dryer states such as SA have little rust because we don't have to put salt on the roads as in Briton.It is not unusual for a restored British sports car to need an entirely new body. So if your classic car is kept out of the sun and rain it will look good for years and so hold its value.

Thanks, I have just sourced a couple in Adelaide but hang on to them because they are getting difficult to find , at least old ones.

I doubt it, I used small diam non fuel hose ( probably heater tubing) for a fuel line it only lasted a few weeks before it went hard and cracked.

The small cover is for cars 4.3M long my 2+2 is about 4.4 so it would be a tight fit the small cover should fit a 2 seater. With these covers you don't really know the best size until you get it on the car, if they are too loose they blow around in winds and can blow off. I tie a length of cord around the cover at just above bumper level. Richard

I am after one or two transverse link pivot bolts and a nut as well. It is the long bolt threaded at each end which connects the strut/hub assembly to the transverse link. My car is a 260 2+2 and I live in Adelaide. Richard

Be careful of an old vinyl cover as it can cause an acrylic finish to bubble in combination with moisture as these finishes are not actually completely water proof. I like Tyvek covers ie Kenco they are good in summer and reasonable in the wet. Ultimately you need a garage or closed in carport. On the other hand there are portable car tents which might be a good idea.

As far as rust goes you can do it yourself with a decent mig welder and a set of panel beating tools as well as the angle grinder etc. I did the rust work in mine years ago and most of it is holding up although it is not' fine art' metal work . In my opinion body work is the most expensive part mechanicals are just pulling apart and reassambling with repaired or replacement parts. Spray painting is another issue as it is a problem doing this sort of thing in a suburban backyard. Doing your own interior is worth while you can buy ready made seat covers and moulded foam from the states I had new loose fit carpets made copied from my originals but unfortunately the business in Adelaide sold out to a victorian firm. Richard

I am going to use hammerite on my suspension bits it is a popular English product (available in Australia) used on classic cars. It will go over rust although you can't spray it. The other option is to strip any old paint off the parts and degrease them as well then soak them in 10% molassis solution to remove the rust, then spray them with wattle super etch. After you can then paint the bits with whatever you like, it all depends on how much time you have. Richard

I would like to know more about the rust areas eg rear lower quarters ,sills ,floor, doors, around windscreen ,back hatch ,rear end behind bumper etc. It would seem a pity to sell the car for parts when the body may be repairable. My car was pretty bad with rust before I welded it up. Richard

The holes havn't been retapped the normal M3 has a pitch of .5mm these threads have a pitch of .6mm .

I am looking to replace the shockers in my 260 2+2 Pedders have quoted $774 for a full set including boots and bump stops they will also insert them in the struts for nothing. Are these shockers good any comments would be appreciated.

I am after 6 at the moment to finish my job but eventually I would need a lot more because I intend to sell fibreglass covers with matching screws. Would the dandenong bloke still have any left.

Does that mean you are breathing in pure odourless carbon dioxide and water instead of carbon monoxide and smelly hydrocarbons from the old engine.

Here is the skinny on how I cured the exhaust smell ,I have a 260z 2+2. 1: check the main hatch seal replace if not in good condition then get inside the car and go around the seal with a thin feeler guage looking for gaps, adjust the hinges and lock to get the best fit 2:Remove the cardboard cover on the inside of the hatch carefully so as not to tear out the plastic studs. On the 2+2 you will see a large rectangular hole in the middle covered with a piece of neoprene and two 1"holes each side covered with duct tape recover all of these holes. 3:Remove the tail light assembly and check the condition or the rubber seals each side, get new ones if stuffed 4:Lift the carpet and check that the two holes left and right on top of the rear box section have gromets in them and check that it is not rusted through underneath ,outside. If it is you will have to block the ends off inside the car with plastic bags or repair the rust holes. 5:If you removed the fuel tank make sure that the filler pipe is properly sealed as it goes through the floor( I used blue tack) check that the filler cap assy is properly sealed it bolts into place with a rubber gasket. 6: look for any rust holes in the rear lower body bits behind the wheels. 7: Look for any other holes or perished gromets remember that a .5mm hole will let in exhaust. You need to be obsessive to cure this problem. Peopleoften tape up the lock and the small vent holes at the rear of the hatch and it often cures the smell but the real cause is underneath the cardboard inside I think this may be the main cause of the exhaust smell. Richard

What about the national motor museum at Birdwood. And Port Adelaide has a maritime museum a railway museum and aviation one as well.

I am in the process of replacing the seat mechanism covers on my 260z ,the three screws which hold them in place on the backing plate turn out to be an obsolete JIS metric standard. They are M3 0.6 which is 3mm diam thread pitch 0.6mm. Does anyone know where I can get them as there is no alternative I tried 1/8 BSW but they will only go in some of the way.

The thing that would really annoy me would be that anything that attracted GST would have to be picked up at the post office etc ,no more delivery to your door. I have been buying stuff by mail order/online for decades things I need for instrument making not available in Australia I seem to remember the threshold fo sales tax for many years was $1000 . In my opinion the threshold should be INCREASED especially to save paper work. Harvey Norman is the main winger yet he doesn't sell harpsichord strings or SU carby needles which have to be bought online anyway. The CEO of Coles Myer was threatening to not charge GST some time ago, if all the powerful retailers agreed simply stopped charging GST on mass things could be interesting. As an aside often small retailers ,if they havn't got what I want ,tell me to go on line which is what they often do themselves for their stock.

Were those large rectangular holes on the back hatch behind the cardboard cover sealed with neoprene? sheet they are on the 2+2 hatch although it has different holes. When I made sure the holes were covered it more or less cured the exhaust gas smell problem

Factory setup was just a spring washer and nut as the load was on the thicker part under the head of the bolt (shear or radial) rather than the bolt head/threads. Just make sure you torque it to the correct figure and it should be fine. I have used the "wizz lock" nuts and locktite . Torquing then to correct figures was guesswork , how do you adapt a torque wrench to work a ring spanner? I will have to take them apart again anyway because I need to replace the diff front insulator. Richard

I have just checked the uni joint at the diff end of the drive shaft on my 260z because I started getting a nasty vibration at 110kms, as I expected one of the four bolts had dropped out. I used M8 bolts with a hex head from nissan because that is what I originally found on the car. I now suspect that these are the wrong bolts for this uni joint I found another set which have a round head with a flat on one side. They fit nicely in place with the flat against the casting to stop the bolt from turning. Are these the correct bolts for the taleshaft uni joint to diff flange and what do I need to do to keep them from undoing, would locktite be a good idea? The pic shows the bolt as well as self locking nuts which I found in the same bag would these be the correct set and does the star washer have anything to do with things. Richard