Jason89

Keen to see how this goes, Im a Ford mechanic and a big fan of the barra. Setting up the Haltech elite to control the box could be a bit tricky, personally i would use the ford PCM and tune it with hptuners or similar. Keep us updated with pics. Cheers.

280zx L28 Inlet manifolds $50 each 280zx ecu, afm and airbox. $50 260z factory alloy rims, $200 I have 8 260z rims, i would prefer to sell them as 2 sets of 4, first in can pick the cleanest. Prefer local pickup for the wheels. Located in Balaklava SA

Lets see the TA22.

Roady, with that progression hole layout you can see why it would be idling at 3200 rpm with it adjusted so its visible, the throttle would be open quite a bit but i still dont think it would be drawing from the main circuit. You want to confirm your lean spot is between idle and the first progression port, not the last progression port and the main circuit. The throttle stop i made was just a bit of 15x3mm flat bolted onto one of the rocker cover bolts, i bent it to limit the movement of the linkages allowing maximum throttle to be right on the problem area. In your case adjust/ bend it so max throttle is just before the first progression hole is uncovered. Drive it, ( if there is enough throttle) if its lean when the your pushing against the stop then you know you need another hole. But looking back at your original post i think your going to be pretty close.

I just had a play around with the carbs to see if i could get it a bit better. Mine are DCOE 18, 40mm with 3 progression holes. Roady from what i understand you belive your lean spot is before the first port is uncovered yeah? To start with i made a throttle stop to limit the the throttle opening, hooked up the wideband AFR meter, then drove the car and adjusted the throttle stop to the leanest AFR which is where it missfires and spits back. Once i knew the throttle angle of the lean spot i could look down the progression ports and see what had to happen. I ended up drilling one of my existing ports out from 1mm to 1.2mm which brought the afr from 16s back to 15:1, Its still to lean but it drives alot better. Before i drill anything else im going to go up a idle jet size. Just make sure you measure the throttle angle to know where your problem is before you drill anything. The throttle stop worked well for me.

I plan to do this with my 40mm webers, start off with a .8mm hole and go bigger if you need. Interested to hear how it works out.

Ive got one here (sa). Its been in storage for many years, i remember it being in good condition. Ill get it out on the weekend and check it out.

Yes Gav is correct, i belive 958 would be a 1971 built vehicle.

Try colder plugs. You may have more heat in the combustion chamber due to a better burn.

Its not factory fitted, pm me your mobile number and ill send some pics

I pulled it all out of the car, its a unicla r12 system. Condensor and evaporator are in good condition, diesel kiki swash type compressor, serpentine type condensor with fan. It still had gas in it. A piece of the l/h dash bracket had been cut out to clear the evaporator box but i reckon you could trim the corner off the box instead. $600 plus postage.

600 maybe a bit less depending on the condition of the condensor. Let me know if your still interested and ill pull it all out and take some photos

Ive got a complete system here in a 71 240z. Ill get some details on the compressor and evap box tomorrow. Its plumbed through the main vents, not a seperate under dash evap and blower.

PM sent.

Ill dig it out and have a good inspection and take some photos on the weekend. Maybe $300.

Location, i have a reasonable vented 260z bonnet in sa.

Lock the distributor by tacking it with a welder or bolting something in place of the springs or weights. I get what you mean, the amount of timing advance is determined by the ignition map programed in the module. The cas pickup either optical or hall effect will need to be dialed in with the rotorbutton so that when it fires at full advance or full retard it still lines up with the pole of the distributor cap without going too far off the end of the rotor.

Jaycar make a kit for a programmable ignition timing module. If you already have elec ignition that should be all you need. It uses the same hand controller as the closed loop boost controller which ive used before, but i cant really tell you much about the timing module.

Yeah it would be a 1970 build car, it should have vents in the hatch and no toolboxes in the rear deck. Looks ok from the pic but we all know anything could be under the paint, goodluck with the project. As for the alloy wheels, they all left the factory with 14" steel rims, alot of dealers were fitting alloy jellybean style wheels.

Carbs and airbox look like 240z items, im not up to speed on early 260zs but i thought they all had the flat top carbs and different shaped box. Someone might be able to clarify.

The changes in production weren't all made at at once, the hatch vents disappeared well before the console changed. As far as i know, the early type console with the choke/ hand throttle belongs to those vehicles with the 71a flange type transmission. If your car no longer has the 71a trans, youll probly find the hole in the trans tunnel for the gearstick has been hacked out as the stick is in a slightly different spot.

Rear lower quarter should be the same.

Price? ... Make a fair offer.

Hey Im wrecking a 4/82 HGS130 280zx. White with red trim. Engine, gearbox, diff, and pedals have been sold. Brakes, steering, suspension, body parts/panels and some interior bits are available. Let me know what your after and ill let you know if its available and condition. Will send anywhere in Aus, postage at your expense. Thanks

Since this car is now on the road i thought i better update the project thread. It all went back together without too many issues, and although there is a few things i still want/need to do its awsome to be able to drive it. The things to do list include, -Seat trim -Cut and polish paint -Seat belts -Electronic ignition -Sort wheel alignment Heres a pic taken on the weekend at All Jap Day.