peter mc

it a good idea my dad just found a engine for his 1930 BSA from Perth and it was from his bike and it has not been in the bike for 40+ years . So it would be nice to find that L24 for your car

not wrong there it all about the budget most super car teams have a 5-10 mil per year budget makes it a lot easier to go fast

good to see more l28t welcome

hahah i mite have more hi tec than them i will be at time attack with a supra with 600kw. lots of testing before i Chase them... but it will scare some of them .they are faster than our supercars around most tracks

i like i mite do the same and paint the wheels black too black is tuff

you broke the trans and a good L28 is a hole lot of fun. spamaster motor is stock and it is fun to drive you don't need to do a swap . its fun to swap with a new motor like some hear. i have done some mad ones myself and now i have a L28 t again but it takes lots of time and $$$$$ to do it right some of the cars hear are dream cars that are out of a lot of people reach there owners are pros at wot they do and they love there cars .go to the build section and look at the pride and dollars in all the cars i love some of the LS1 cars and my fave a BMW m3 conversion ooo and a mad v6 super charged German .

4000 hahahhahhhaaah your dreaming spend your money on new brakes and shocks and seat belts and a good l28 wood scare you . most pro shops charge $100 per hour for conversions so if you can not do it your self it will cost you around $20000+ to do the job .I don't do crap if it gets a hot motor it gets brakes wheels suspension and fire ext, etc. some cars leave the shop with 500kw+ at the wheels and bills that can see $100,000 be real with your budget .make it safe first.....i don't mean to be hard I'm sorry if I'm sounding that way but the grate thing about the z is that with some hard work you can fix them your self. and with help from the forum there is some grate people out their that will help you fix any problem that will come your way

yes they do bolt to the mains you do req 14 10.5 mm spacers all so for the main caps, all so you will need longer bolts for your sump as the plate is 6mm thick .all strong L motors will benefit from a stronger bottom

thanks to all it been a hard birth Amanda is not well look like she will be in for a while miss molly is on the mend held her for the first time today am very tired must get some sleep

i have a heap of fj stuff heaps of cams pm me if you need any fj parts

hi the place to get them from is percision shims in croydon their phone number is 03 97230199 and Stuart buys his shims off them. their about $5 each any size

hahah it was pretty funny

i would love to have a concourse 240z and then the next day i would love to have one with a ls1 in it with flares .AR i just love them .it your car your dream do what you want to it .if it look as good as your other car I'm sure it will be a fine ride

thanks lurch it was a grate day was very therapeutic.

the valve does not come adrift .the ball falls out when the front of the valve cracks more to do with age of the part i think. but the one that failed in my race engine was about a year old . the only thing i will say if you do this mod is change you oil filter often as it will see all the oil now that the bypass has gone

ar had the breather of in the pic had a clear hose on it on the dyno to see what was going on and it wont be back to the drags am well over going straight have ran 9.9 140 at Calder with the old set up. and toe for the front is 2 mm out and 2mm in on the back for the moment

repco or any auto shop sell them

i was very happy with the feel even with 300 slicks it was light .feel as good as any production car but the track will tell more have set the front geometry up at 3.5 camber and 4 deg caster as a start will post more on the front end when we go to the track

just a pic of the engine bay

small twin plates like the one above have small diameter and there weigh is close to the center line of the crank so they have less spinning mass than a single plate that has the same weight. that's why we try and take weight from the out side of the flywheel .it can take a bit more idle speed but it not a problem you can drive around it . my motor has 3.5 kg out of the crank and a super light twin plate with low comp and a cam that makes the 74works cam look like a girl and it idles at 1050

the only way to go for your setup mate

That's for sure, much safer! But this must be done in the first parts of the build stage so you can get all the metal out.

will be there what time mate

have had a pm from nzeder and he is well all ok thank god

the only reason i run rb on the angle is so you dont upset the sump pick up .but im sure you will mod the sump to fix the problem