KatoKid

Coincedently......picked it up yesterday...pics and report tomorrow!

Definitely painted http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67212170-My-Dattos-FJ20ET-510-VG30DET-180B%28east%29/page4 Since then Ive seen powder coated and reckon that's the go.

Banned if not!!!

I have sequential wet dreams......

Thanks Jamo...too late though...Earls already on the way from Summit!

Melbourne Motorsport.....mmm...Ive heard varying reports. You had experience with them or know someone there?

Speedhut?

Did get something else done today....I welded some reinforcing plates with captive nuts inside the plenum for my removable bonnet catch. Also found a pic of black brake lines on a 1600, looks grouse I reckon!

Whoa....no way would you use copper. Its steel bundy tube but agree it does look like copper, will be powder coated black. Got the accelerator pedal finished today. Couldn't believe how long it took ......... the BMW cable enters the firewall on an angle so took some time and lots of measuring to ensure the hole in the firewall was in the right place and that the pedal was in the right place. Used an ED Falcoon accelerator pedal with the top cut off and adapted to suit the BMW cable end, added some additional holes so I can fine tune the feel and travel but don't think I will need to as I replicated the BMW pedal ratios and it feels spot on. I had to add some additional reinforcement as the whole firewall was flexing way to much. I need to get a new cable though as the one that came with the engine was just ripped out and they damaged the outer...$65 for a genuine cable incl freight from Schmiedmann in Europe so not too scary. Sat in the car and changed gears and made brrrm brrm noises as I pushed the new third pedal for a few minutes just to keep the motivation up!

Thoughts.....smashing. Perfect in every way! Adam, without being judgemental I cant beleive its been this close to finished for so long. Possibly life and other things getting in your way but the first time you drive it ....it will all seem worthwhile. David

About time to John, good to see you back on the horse. I fixed your seats!

750nm .....Farking...Clarkson knows How many powers Craig?

Thanks Mike. Ive grabbed an accel pedal assembly from a EB/ED/EF Falcon, its a very simple yet strong set up which looks like it wont flex. A few people have recommended them for conversions....we will see.

Whos' bush kit??? I like the all black. Will be interested to hear how they fit. Keep us posted.

Thanks guys, excellent advice. Peter, that diagram is worth something. Its good verification of how much lower the accel pedal needs to be compare to the brake pedal but ultimately it will come down to each cars individual brake system. In my case Ive got R33 GTST master cylinder (1 inch) and booster (dual diaphragm) pushing on R33 GTST calipers at the front and R31 on the rear so who knows where the brake pedal will really end up in comparison to the accel pedal. DET, my feeling is that closer to the brake pedal is better but as you point out double pedalling is definitely a risk, not so much if you are wearing booties but in street shoes ....yes. Mike, when you are talking about stock levers bending are you referring to brake or accel?

So....I'm about to fit an accelerator pedal in my project and given I have free reign on placement I'm looking for advice on the standard placement of the accelerator pedal in relationship to the brake pedal and this works for heel and toe. I realize this is a very personal thing and brake set up and style plays a big part.......could the accelerator pedal be closer to the brake, should it be higher or lower etc??? Thanks David

Thanks Craig. Keep us posted once driven at a legal venue

Have you driven it yet Craig?

He knows the problem......

Fully hektic bro

Pipework in the tunnel is done. 3/8 fuel supply on the bottom, 5/16 fuel return in the middle and 3/16 rear brake line on the top. Took some time to get it looking straight and very happy with the clips/brackets which worked perfectly. 3/8 required a good quality bender which my brother already had. 5/16 was easier and an elcheapo bender did the job, the 3/16 just needs fingers! Its only steel bundy tube but Ive seen a picture on another forum where the guy has had his lines powder coated black...looks grouse against the body colour underneath the car so I'm going that way.

Thanks Peter. Understand where you are coming from but I'm paranoid of fuel leaks and the slightest possibility of my pride and joy burning to the ground. When I had the engine running on the test stand you should have seen the rubber fuel hose develop a life of its own and move about when the pump pressurised it. It was a real wake up call as to how much pressure and potential there is for a leak. Thanks to Mike (NZeder) Ive found some scary stuff on the push on adapters with the plastic clips http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1805261-LS1-Swappers-Check-your-fuel-system so I'm going to go with the screw on retainer version http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rus-644113/overview/

My M3 engine has a pretty big oil-air cooler from the factory which I would happily use if I could make it fit but it has quirky O ring fittings that make this not practical so Ive bought some -10AN adapters for the oil filter housing and I'm intending to use one of these form Earls http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ear-83410erl/overview/ Setrab look to be a good alternative but a bit pricey and you still need to buy the AN adapters. What do you thinks Jamo/Pete?

Hi guys. This is doing my head in...... I have zero experience with AN fittings and hose and there are so many choices for the different fuel, and oil lines I need to make up. I look online at places like Aeroflow and Summit and I just get confused because I dont know what fittings work with what type of hose. Is there somewhere in Melbourne I can go which will give me good advice, has a good range over the counter and wont rip me off? Thanks

Thanks Peter, duly considered and I'm in the same place. As with you, primary focus is getting the exhaust up as high as possible, if its hot inside then I will have to just deal with it...for now. On to the topic of fuel and brake hardlines. A pet peeve of mine is cars that people have put huge amounts of time and money into and their fuel system looks like a last minute and poorly executed add on, dogy P clamps self tapered into the floor and cable ties don't cut it for me. It can be difficult to get an outcome that looks good and is properly safe. Because the BMW engine is offset to the drivers side I have no room in the tunnel where the fuel and brake lines ran originally and also the exhaust is on the wrong side so I have to move them to the other side. I also need to run bigger fuel 3/8 supply line and 5/16 return lines. I want to use factory type pipe clips but I also don't want to drill holes and have bolt heads or rivets etc in the side of the tunnel either so I went to pick a part and spent ages crawling under cars in the mud looking for something that will work. Ended up with clips from a mid 90's Pajero, it has four slots but I only need three, two for fuel and one for brake. On one side it has 2 x 5/16 slots and the other has a brake pipe slot and one other, using a drill it it was pretty easy to enlarge the outer 5/16 slot to 3/8 and they all clip in really well and are well retained. I made a base from 5mm x 20mm strap, drilled and taped the center hole for the M6 bolt and then drilled two larger holes which will be used to place a small weld to attach the base to the tunnel, this way you will see no welds once the clip is bolted down. Ive got my bundy tube and bender so that's next.