Z

Gav I'd keep keep them, there are silly numbers being bantered around overseas, it will only be more costly in the future. I'll keep my Cally as its just kewl. If you want another professional job on other switches, I have my light/indicator combo switch with this guy at the moment and his finished product is also top notch http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/services Pricing is reasonable at $90 US for this: "Completely tear them down, clean everything, regrease only what needs regreasing, realign contacts, replace worn or broken parts, Polish the plastic, paint the turn signal stalk (if needed) and basically try and make it work and look as good as possible. I've done a few Concourse refurbishings, hundreds of rebuilds and no complaints yet. I've actually had a few people ask where I found a replacement switch for their switch, and I had to explain that it was just there switches, cleaned correctly. Funny stuff." When it arrives I'll throw up some pics so you can decide if it suits you.

Just advising as a few people have asked - this kit is still for sale.

Haha try and get this message from VicZCar: Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 365 days. Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic. Gavs recent post on his Calendar clock promted me to add this info about Ron. He is a total professional, good communication all the way through the refirb, he is worth every penny. I already have a Calendar clock restored through him, the pics are my RC which was sent back by him last week. Other RC info: Questions asked about 2-knob Rally Clocks 1) Why is my clock noisy? Ans: The clock is noisy because the motor and gears are turning a t 360 rpm 24/7. This is normal gear train noise. 2) If I unplug my clock when not using the car will it extend the life of the clock? Ans: No. Like any mechanical device once in motion you should keep it in motion. 3) Why does my clock loose or gain time certain times of the year? Ans: The 2-knob rally uses a tuning fork as the time standard. Another words the tuning fork is what keeps the clock accurate just as the quartz standard today is what keeps the clocks accurate. The tuning fork operation pushes air and is susceptible to the density or change in temperature. The warmer air is easier for the tuning fork to push. When the air is colder the tuning fork moves slower. The quart unit in today's clock(s) are encapsulated in a sealed hermitic unit that is and not as susceptible to temperature change. So basically, the guy is guru!

PM sent

Some better pictures of the exhanust manifold. Turbo cover also included. Price drop - $500 for the lot.

Hello All This pasty impression of an exhaust manifold is what I have got around to posting. If you cannot tell, the manifold has had new bolts installed (as has the turbo) so that fitting should be easier. The manifold does come with the kit which is still for sale. I must ask Shaun if he can use my excellent photography skills for the Nats!

Hey all If you think the twin stack muffler is the best look (as do I) then check these guys out. Initial discussions indicate that inlet diameter for the muffler only (if not going complete exhust from these guys) can go up to 2". My eventual solution will need 2.5" but this is still way cool NOS for S30's... http://www.abarth-exhausts.com/?s=240z It might suit someone out there.

Haha yeah where is the manifold! I have it also, its included in the sale.

Hi All For sale is a T3/T4 turbo kit for the L series. This kit was used on a members car for some time, then sold to me as he went RB. Kit consists of piping, air filter, turbo and cooler. I have had the old studs in the turbo removed and replaced with new ones, ready to go! $500.

Hi All Just moving a radiator I don't need. It is brand new and never been used/installed. It is a manual/auto radiator, so has ability to cool oil. Had thought of plumbing that in but the choice is yours. A comparable radiator is something like this: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Aluminum-Radiator-for-Nissan-Datsun-240Z-260Z-L24-L26-AT-MT-/271113000839?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f1f981787 I'm happy with $100 for it, if you think it would suit you I'll throw in a cooling fan also, it came with the radiator. Cheers Z

Any recommended engineers in Brisbane?

Yeah mate I'm looking for a legit supplier of S30 parts in Brisbane, if you can help me that would be awesome...

Look like you fellas are having fun, will try and drop by soon and see what's doing!

I could be in the mix for this...

Spoiler sold to a very happy forum member. Cheers.

Cheers Gilltech, I've recently heard that you can do that with the R180. But looks like I'm now going R200, albeit kicking and screaming! Really wanted to keep the R180 if I could as I think it can handle my cars power, but it just ain't gonna happen it seems.

Gidday Fellas I have a genuine carbon fibre front spoiler for a 240/260z in unmarked condition. The spoiler is brand new and never been fitted (you can drill those holes yourself)! I have gone in another direction for my front and had this sitting for a while now. This thing is LIGHT, but gorgeous. Was $250US from MSA with basically the same again in shipping . I'm happy with $300 + shipping. It's boxed and ready to go: Weight: 500grams Length: 1.5m Height: 120mm Width: 400mm

Thanks guys, kit has now been sold.

Hey I was thinking of this kit originally for Skyline R200's, am not sure if Silvia diffs are a different size, but if not all good! As a result you would need a longer tailshaft to account moving from long to shortnose diff's. Hope that answers the question!

I spoke to Dave today, boy what a laugh! He said when dudes ring him at 4.45pm on a Friday asking "how do I turbo my Zed", his answer will be "Don't know, I give up, how do you turbo a Zed" haha, funny at the time. Called just before 7am Brisbane time and he was having his lunch - perfect apparently. His advise was that if you have a simple query email him, but if it's a more complex issue, call him. Funny guy!

Hi guys I have a brand new Modern Motorsport R200 Differential Mounting Kit for sale in brisvegas. Back in the day when I wanted turbo/high power this kit was perfect. But now I don't think my 71 shell will take kindly to massive surges of power, hence this sale. Don't quote me on the benefits of shortnose over long but: Newer diff's with less wear More plentiful diff than the illusive R200 LSD longnose Lighter and arguably stronger Many different ratio's around and due to the cost, you can have a few diff's to throw in depending on need Link to Modern Motorsport: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/default.php Some info on install: http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/mm_gallery.php?album=2008+March+Proto+Q45+R200+Mounting+Proven+Brian+G/ Dealing with MM can be difficult, you'll be glad you don't have to! The shipping was $200US and the kit is around $500US - I'm happy with $400AUS + shipping. If you have/need the power in your Zed and are starting to figure how to convert that to acceleration, then this could be the ticket.

Really appreciate all the feedback fellas. Satrat z I will check the rear gearbox seal, hoping the transmission shop did all that when they recoed the box and fitted the 260 bellhousing. As mentioned above, SWM recommend the later 240 mustache and transverse link. He did say the the front crossmember can be the same but the rubber mount is different. dat240z for the moment I have ordered the SWM front crossmember, which is modified by Stewart to also hold the front diff in place... (same effect as the R/T Mount) and go from there. She ain't cheap...but it is fullproof from all accounts! At the end of the day it seems there is a solution for the early girls, with the forums help and modified parts we should get there!

That does help very much satrat z I've been doing some research and http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/thread48143.html (Posts 2 & eight) seem to think you update the front crossmember, get a curved Rear Transverse Link Mount (http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm) and then flip the mustache bar around! It all sounds doable but flipping round the mustache bar...really? And this link for all things diff by JMortensen, have referred to this one a bit: http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/49194-differential-cv-lsd-hp-torque-r160-r180-r200-r230-diff-mount/ I did get a modified gearbox cross member from SWM and with 300 odd kays so far it seems all good, hope you are having the same experience with yours satrat z. Great info on the alignment for the restraining strap, will have to consider that as well!

In a spot of bother and hoping you guys can help out... I've spent the day with Dat2kman figuring out the best way to improve the R180 diff/axle set up on the car seeing as I've just completed the S14 gearbox conversion. The problem is that with the early 71, it has the diff located slightly (35mm?) forward. This was later fixed in the 72 models onwards apparently, their diffs were placed further back, positioning the axles in line with the diff, which helped out the old uni axles somewhat. I am sticking with uni axles and it would be best to reposition the diff backwards while other work is going on. So my question is - what is involved in doing this correction to move the diff backwards??? Jason had a mustache bar with two doglegs in it which may solve the rear mounting point for the diff, but are there any other factors for the front diff mount perhaps? Dimitri to the rescue maybe I've tried searching on this problem but only came up with this: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=3770.0 Any knowledge/experience on this tricky little curve ball would be appreciated as I'm wanting to get stuck into it!

Give these bad boys a go: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-White-Nissan-BRIGHT-12V-LED-Instrument-Panel-BA9S-1815-Light-Bulb-1895-NOS-/280988674116?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416c3ae844 A set just arrived and the delivery was quick. After trying the MSA uprated bulbs I'm really hoping these will give more from less...