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RB30X

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Everything posted by RB30X

  1. Thats with club rego obviously?
  2. Well done lurch. What a find. I can imagine what your beats per minute would have been during that phone call. Can't imagine there'd be a heap of l24s lying around for your spare engine. Love to see a better engine bay pic to with this efi.
  3. I've got a few starter motors but no master cylinders.
  4. I've got two really good bonnets left but sending a bonnet to tazzy = $$$$$$
  5. I don't care who you are or where you come from, but if you don't think this car is hot, you're wrong. You can't road register one, or officially race one, but it does things for me I cannot say on a public forum. Oh and it broke (flogged) the GTR's record on the Nurburgring, and it should. http://www.ferrari.com/English/News/GT/Pages/100423_CAR_ferrari_599XX_record_nurburgring.aspx
  6. yeah that black rear lip needs some flares to go with it hey. That front on shot looks awesome.
  7. If your water is getting that hot then it will expell some from the cooling system. Why it gets so hot I don't know. Take your top radiator hose off once it warms up a bit and see if the water pump is working.
  8. thanks Same deal for the rear main cap?
  9. Actually I have "How to modify your Nissan Datsun OHC Engine" Could you throw up a zoomed out version of that pic or let me know the jist of it please. I can see there is a thread there and I did try winding a bolt into it lightly but it seemed to bottom out before it popped the cap off. cheers
  10. Doh I've got that book why didn't I look in there.
  11. Just stripping the crank out of an L28 block and was wondering how you get the centre crank cap out? ('centre' meaning in between 3 & 4 pot) The others come out easy because there is clearance either side from the rotating weights/rod bearing, but the centre cap is boxed in no matter where the crank sits. And obvioulsy once the centre cap comes out the rear main cap is next on the list. Is there a trick to getting that one off as well. Cheers Tim
  12. Your auto has two kick down triggers. An electronic one and a vacuum one. I would say your vacuum modulator is failing providing the inconsistent kick downs. The electronic one runs off throttle position so it will always kick down when fully planted if it's working. Try replacing your vac mod. Why your auto is shifting so hard as standard is beyond me. Has it been serviced lately?
  13. Is your trans standard? Does you trans hold gears to a higher rpm than you wish before shifting, even under minimal load? Are you wearing a helmet when you change down to 2nd in an auto at 100km/hr?
  14. Thanks to Scoota the legend i've now got a 240/260z auto valve body if someone wishes to do an exchange to save on down time. cheers
  15. Where?
  16. Vacuum modulator may be leaking. Is your engine blowing blue smoke. Sometimes when they're really bad thay let trans fluid go up the vacuum tube into the inlet manifold.
  17. I've got two l28's. Pick me pick me.
  18. Heaps of stuff left mate. Just ask me what you need.
  19. Go the flares rev, you know you want to.
  20. Would anyone be interested in my ones. Similar to the ones above but say jet240 I don't really think they'd suit my ls1 powered car. More like a mad six or turbod zed. Qld plates btw.
  21. This would also increase the compresion ratio slightly too.
  22. Well after looking at that one mine does look brand new. I might strip it and clean it again, just incase.
  23. So it has full travel, just feels soft all the way through, or soft then hard at the end?
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