RB30X

It's funny but there is a lot of parts you could get off that car.

The cell and surge tank were already on it when I bought it. I plan on making a whole new fuel cell and incorporate a surge tank into that with internal walbro's. It would also be nice to have a fuel level gauge as well.

All custom, although there are kits from the US which are available but the sumps are different over there.

It's not the air going into motor I'm worried about, it's the heat from the exhaust. What have you done with yours?

Just a short one.

Thanks to Kobes, I was able to make a little more sense down at my local today. I advised them to check with a certain distributor and what a surprise we can get them at the price Kobes said, although initially he tried to sting me double post until I mentioned once again what Kobes had said and he corrected himself. I also signed up for a trade discount card to get a % discount according to how much I spent there from now on. Thankyou very much.

A blown 350z! pics please

Nice offer mate. I sent you a pm. Cheers

This is unbelievable isn't it. The footage and the stories that are coming out is heart breaking.

Looks like its a coil over sleeve kit for you then.

You're quite welcome to come up and take it for a drive Peter. There so much torque its like a turbo car running moderate boost, without the lag. I took a friend for a drive the day on a long straight bit of road just near my house (literally 10 meters) and I just went through the gears to get to speed and let it warm up and he was like 'damn that's quick' then I explained I hadn't even given it any yet I'm hoping to get some more video of it soon. Actually I'm interested to hear your thoughts on other options to reduce under bonnet temps? I went on a cruise recently and there were a heap of muscle car guys there checking out the Zed, and in the past (when shoe-horning big motors into little cars) they have hole-sawed or cut out sections of the top of the fire wall to let air from the bonnet area into the space where the wiper motor sits so the hot air gets sucked out through the existing vents below the windscreen. I am unsure if this mod is illegal or not due to holes in the firewall, but I'm sure its effective. Same as vents in the inspection covers I suppose. I don't think that bonnet scoop is helping while driving either, maybe to let the heat out when you are stopped though.

I painted the headers with an etch primer and then black heat proof paint. This was good, as it remained a little sticky to help hold onto the wrap as I installed it. Giving it a run up to operating temp should help cure the paint also. I'm waiting on the floods to give in a bit so I can order some replacement KYB's off ebay.

Everything is completely different under the rear of an S13 against an S30.

Lurch, do you know the procedure for bleeding a trolley jack? Mine is a few years old and developed a leak from the piston/seal where you pump it up. Eventually it leaked enough oil out to limit its jacking height. I decided to top the oil up but because I removed the screw in plug (that the piston slides up and down) in, to replace the oil ring, I've let air into the system and now it won't pump at all. The sticker that tells you how to bleed it has faded. I have the little knob which you undo to let the pressure out to lower it, and a little flat bladed screw with what looks like a spring underneath it. I tried a few ways to bleed it but all were unsuccessful.

Show us some pics of this motorcycle cleaner in action?? You might be onto something.

Sandblasting and resurfacing.

I've removed the anodizing from the fuel rails and given the aluminium a polish so it suits the engine bay a bit better. Today I was finally able to get the RH header off in order to heat wrap it. The radiant heat coming through from the engine bay is not pleasant and really ruins the fun when driving. After taking my wife for a drive the other night she said her side was fine but she could really feel the heat coming from my side, which would make sense as the LH headers have been wrapped already. Last time I tried to get the exhaust off this side I could not get the collector flange past the bell housing bump for the starter motor, but this time I raised the engine slightly off its mounts and dropped the middle section of the exhaust which gave me more room and the starter motor got to remain in position. The headers have been wrapped and given a run in warm up in position, but no driving yet.

Hope you guys in and around the Brisbane area are doing alright tonight. Seen some crazy footage with rivers smashing down main roads in built up areas on the news. We've been lucky so far where I am but the best is yet to come I think, unfortunently. Keep your Zeds up as high as you can

Is your new mc different to your old mc? Why is the rod too short?

I've got a heap of old ones. Tell me what length you need.

I sold one recently for $60ish dollars. I'm pretty sure you could make a newer and better one for that price, unless it has to be a factory item?

Back in my VL days I planned on building a mad RB engine but left the X on the end like in Algebra. As in, I had many options in what to insert there. It could have been any of the following. RB30-E RB30-DE RB30-ET RB30-DET RB30-DETT

I've got a couple. Apart from the brand being displayed obviously, how do you tell what amp they are.

So who's L28 is it? :'(

Might be something wrong with youtube, it didn't show any in car footage or burnouts?