xa1973

Especially with a 302 FI Windsor in it

Good stuff Mossy These are the ticket Cheers

Glasshouse Mountains Nice Ive got a ten acre property near there Cheers

Hey Kev Yes and Yes, but I only shaved my surfaces by 3 thou as a clean up measure for piece of mind, you will need to determine how much you have or are going to shave and check your tolerances, if it is too great out of OEM specs you will either still need to shim or get a better head and start again I bought and installed this unit as a development excercise for myself to rate a pumped L Series Block against a V8 conversion I am looking at I rate the unit very highly, all engines have a weak link somewhere in the chain, the timing gear is a weak link in the L Series engines The OEM stretch far too much, are time consuming and a real pain in the keester to change out, particularly if your running FI and fall out of the tree when pushed hard if your block is modified A real s--t also if you lose the tensioner into the sump!!!!! These units are double row, well manufactured and made tough to run hard and install with out that C--P spring loaded tensioner, they are set and forget units They are expensive, I bought mine when the AUS dollar was good so I could justify the cost ( to myself anyway ) but if your only using your joy as a sometime daily runner the OEM will suit you Cheers Jeff

LOL Well ol'mate, a grey nomad, we sound very similar in vintage Drop me a line if your thoughts wander towards an empty car space Cheers

Good Choice Can't go wrong with that combo Cheers

So does that mean yours is for SALE, Lynton??

Hello Mate If its been listed as you say, for a while and it has rust in the "usual places", I would be giving it closer inspection Mechanicals are relatively cheap and easy to fix, rust is a very different story if you can't do it yourself and will easily blow your pocket if it is worse than first thought, which sometimes is the case If it is in that good a condition and as previously mentioned has all the good fruit, and he wants $12k, start your offer at $8k or $9k and see how you go if you really want it Remember, something is only worth what someone is willing to pay Cheers

Yep Thats the ticket, the same as mine Theres always something out there, that someone knows about to make life easier at the end of the day, especially with cars Cheers

The 4X4 and the Cow are extreme cases Ive seen in outback WA, I consider, something that is more rather than something that is less, is always better. Cheers

I think your plan to UPGRADE to a better set up is excellent, do it!!! Lapsash versus inertia, there is no comparison!!!! I agree with George and Mr240 , ever seen the face of an occupant of an old school car rear ended by a big 4X4, or a head on with a Cow on the road, that only had lapsash belts in it Ive refurbed many early model cars in the day and this is ONE of the FIRST things I change Nuclear _z's scenario of mounting will work just fine, you CANNOT use second hand belts from another car by law, but you can buy many and varied Aus Design compliant replacement kits in all sorts of colours ( if you want to colour code) from any good major Auto Spares outlet Cheers

Did I see this on Ebay some time ago?? Some pics would be good Cheers

Hello Mate Thanks

:D

Hello Mate I applaud you on your tenacity for a new venture in these economic times A $1200 quick blow over!!?? Some peoples perception of a respray compared to what a blow over is are two very different animals. I would make it very clear your level of service and what you are offering for $1200, ancillary strip and refit?, straight acrylic?, enamel?, clear over colour?, colour sand?, cut and polish? Cheers

Hello Mate LOL, you dont need a pool, two tanks big enough for your body, a lifting jig on a rail runner , a couple of husky pumps and some ancillary gear Cheers

Not off hand Ive got my own set up Take a look in the Industrial / Engineering section of the phone book or look on the net for your nearest Cheers

All very good comments My own experience, I never media blast cars, as said previously, silica residue, sand residue, heat warp and buckle. Garnet is used for industrial use and should never be anywhere near a car, soda is good if you must, bead blasting generates too much heat, sand under too much pressure has the same effect You pay for what you get? Ive seen some real crap from some so called pro's, who run for cover when you take a good look at their mess For what its worth, I always acid dip my shells and panels and then epoxy prime the bare metal An hourly rate is the only way to go, and keep the jockeys out of your workshop!!!!! Cheers

Hello Mate Excellent panel work!!! Im looking forward to some pics of the V8 in the bay You say the bonnet and rear hatch are after market F/glass items. got a supplier name I can call?? Cheers

A 280zx Welcome

Hello Mate Looks good, personally I would still run a length of RHS along the bottom to prevent flex as you dont have gussets at your joints, but whatever works Cheers

Hello Mate I assume you used the block and tackle I see to lift the body onto the stand??? Cheers

Your concept is good and simple I made a set similar to yours but using two hand boat wiches ( one each end ) for height adjustment attached to a slide with pulleys and a third one for rotation to minmize effort ( you can work on your own ) with adjustable RHS for the base joiner on solid swivel rubber wheels with brakes for moving ease, good for any size car you have Cheers

Looking good Mate Choice panel work, dont forget to fertan your steel Throw your toploader on Ebay shes good for around $1300.00 Cheers

Hello Mate This link doesnt appear to be working Cheers