xa1973

New seatbelts or second handies? Cheers

LOL Hey Pauly your a funny guy You learn until you depart this wonderful place You should take note, its better to know a little about a lot than know f##k all At my computor, yes its part of my job, and yourself? I dont own a ( HAYNES ) Inches etc etc = tossa, do you change hands at half time? MR240z = Moderator of all the bullshit Yes, I can see why you would feel inadequate Perhapsyoushouldtakeupyogaandgiveyourselfahe#djob Enjoy Have a nice Day

LOL On ya Lurch For the new 1974 model Nissan introduced an improved version of the 2 seater Z, which carried the 2564cc Model L26 engine At the same time Nissan unveiled its newly developed 2 + 2 version of the Z, its displacement boosted by 200cc over the previous model, SOHC, new fuel pump, twin carbs etc etc They kept the same suspension and so on and so on Cheers

4 x4 Reminds of the craze of the early statesman 4 x4's

The 260 ( AKA USA 280z @ 2753 cc) is a 240 with L26 @ 2565cc against L24 @ 2393 cc Or 12.2 inches longer @ 0.8 wider @ 0.2 taller was the actual for the 2+2

Hello Mate As in my reply #5 Unfortunately once a bearing begins to fail, thats it, regreasing is like the old trick of putting banana skins or wheat in a geabox or diff Cheers

Hello Mate Why dont you give it a go yourself, most are very easy and fairly simple Theres some some good articles on here for the difficult ones, IE: Rear Suspension Assembly , Rear Member Assembly and front Transverse Link ( lower control arm )

Hmmmmmm Could be many things A couple of thoughts As you say it only happens when you have full weight on the wheels Drop your diff oil, pull off the cover and have a look, check the oil for metal and the condition of the drive pinion, ring gear, side gear etc Idealy you should do both wheel bearings not just one, check them again and make sure they are installed correctly and have plenty of grease, check the rear pinion bearing, if the bearings have not had grease pushed into them by hand before installation they can dry out, check your calipers are secure Check your drive shaft both ends, yolk and uni, check the tension on the bolts @ R2oo diff 49 - 59 NM R180 diff 31 - 42 NM See how you go Cheers

Hello Mate Not sure where your from I assume your car is unregistered? Are you getting / have you got a roadworthy, if so the mechanic would have pointed out the defect ? Cheers

LOL YOUR RIGHT!!!! That will teach me to wear my glasses Cheers

Another thought to add If you have an after market sound system installed ( with or with out amp ) these systems usually have a huge power feed lead with Fusable Link ( with a light of some description in it ) that are connected directly to the battery and draw current 24/7, these will destroy a good battery in no time particlarly in older cars that do not have as many electronic power management controls, relays etc, you may have an open relay drawing current somewhere in the circuit Check your engine inspection light, courtesy lights for leakage, is your battery charging, do you have good earth to body or chassis, in older cars I usually run my neg lead to an engine mount Cheers

Welcome Why would you want to put a rotary in a Z car Cheers

Hello Mate Check this site out www.showcars-bodyparts.com or type in 280zx fibre glass kits and click on nissan /datsun 280zx catalogue-fibreglass & steel It has lots of pics and styles Cheers

Purchased for around $8k, with around another $2k to finish it, nice one You gotta pay to play Cheers

Hi Mike KOOLFOAM in Slacks Creek 32091044 Sell Blocks in any size you want, from small to huge, good if you want to copy an existing part or make your own forms Alternatively check any large craft shop or polystyrene supplier / recycler on the net Cheers jeff

The easiest way to work with fibreglass for this type of work is with blocks of craft foam, you can carve and file the shapes you want for your moulds then lay on the matting and resin, saves you a lot of hassles especially for as you say the fiddly bits Cheers

LOL on ya And I thought you were talking about Molylube

The concept looks good Mate A thought to enhance the look, if you recessed the indicators flush into the fill in panels, fibre glass graft the fill ins to meet the spoiler edges and also mould them to meet the inside edge of the light moulds creating a one piece look and put mesh in to the section where the indicators are I see youve also taken out the left to right exhaust pipe section, are you going to fill that in? Just a thought, I might give this a go myself Cheers

Maybe some bifocals might help

It prevents shudder from the pumped fuel ( hitting the injectors on EFI or lag / surge on Carby models), giving smooth constant fuel pressure all the time Id refit it Cheers

And then he can have the free set of steak knives Cheers

LOL Just make sure you do it right the first time and you wont have to do it again and again Specs are there for a reason!!! Cheers

Hey Guys Hang On First of all remove the bolt and check the thread, run a die over it, if its stuffed buy a new one, but wait theres more...... Run a tap through the crank, check and clean build up, once this is done repeat, if the tap spins in too easily by hand it is worn you will need to go over size If all is good, ( loctite industrial machine thread lock ) and torque to 118 to 157 NM or 87 to 116 FT LBS in the old language, and dont forget a grip faced washer Cheers