garvice

Cheers mate, I'll measure the doors tonight and get back to you. To all the Brisbane/south east queensland people, send me a PM if you want a set of seals and I'll order you a set to. Just pay me when they come (well unless I get inundated with people).

Sounds like you need to upgrade to a Z32 box mate. Still haven't put mine is as I am still enjoying driving my car and don't want it off the road just yet.

Yeah I have tried doing a google search for Rides +torrent, but cant seem to find any sites. Plus some of the torrents that come up when searching for "Rides" are definitely not the car show (think adult related).

Anyone know where I can download the Rides TV show. The host is Jason Priestley (Pretty annoying), but at least they show some good shops.

Looking good mate. I am definitely interested in the rubber material for the door (2+2) and rear window. Let me know how much you want for them. Brad

I would say that I can't weld (still learning), but even I could do a better weld then this I have driven unsafe cars before (had one corolla that if you hit a bump on the highway the back end would oscillate back and forth because the shocks were stuffed. Only corrected itself when you accelerated out of the oscillation), but those welds are terrible.

What gap did you have to go to with the ngk plug? I originally left the iridium plugs at there standard gap whilst tuning, but a few months down the track I got a bit of hesitation. Ended up gapping them down to about 22thou. Actually that is probably irrelevant as I am running different coils.

Does it measure resistance (Unit is Ohms)? Your getting confused hear, current and voltage are two different things, but it really doesn't matter in the context of this post. You say the wires all read 12V. When do they read 12V (I.E. Do you have anything connected to the ignition barrel)? No. You need to determine what the wires are actually for. When you saw wire the wires to switches, what are you meaning? Your ignition barrel will have a 12V constant feed (battery feed), In the off position, this is not connected to any wires. In the ACC position, the 12V is connected to the Accessories wire. In the On position, Accessories is and an On wire (powers fuel pump, computer, ignition etc) are connected to the constant 12V. In Start position the ACC is disconnected (so the starter gets as much power as possible), the On is still connected and the starter wire is connected. Stop jumping to conclusions, take your battery cable off, set your multimeter to resistance, attach one end to one wire and then with the other end, determine where this wire is going by probing the end of the loom. Then work out what that pin (on the computer) or component (starter solenoid etc) is. You are just going to kill something otherwise. Also give the shop a call.

Have you got a multimeter? You really need one for this type of work. Have you got a factory service manual showing the RB30 computer Pinouts? You really need one of these two. Then you can do a continuity check from the computer plug to those wires you have. Never rely on colours for looms, especially when the loom has been modified, always work your way through each wire. The 10 second on then off of the fuel pump sounds like a priming function of the computer to me. Generally when you turn your ignition to on, the computer will start your fuel pump and ignition (coils) power supplies to get ready for the engine to crank over. Then the computer will recognise that when the engine is cranking over and it will keep the power on the fuel pump/ignition. If it does not see the engine trying to crank over it will cut power to these feeds after a period of time (10seconds seems a bit touch long). When you connect the fuel pump (to the wire which you say only turns on for 10seconds), try to then crank the engine and see if it stays on for longer. If you don't want to destroy anything, definitely get yourself a multimeter and wiring diagram though.

This is not the usual type of restoration. Whilst the work being done on this car is amazing, it is a lot more work then you will normally have done when you just want a car repaired and looking nice. I think this is more a show quality restoration.

P Plater + Turbo Zed = 1 less Z in the world

What size springs did you get away with using the 55mm tubes? Could you get away with the same diameter springs? Also, is it only the TT tube dampner we can use? Or are you able to change different dampners into the strut tubes? I.E. the monotube etc.

Call me crazy and feel free to right me off as a nutter, but I think the original lines of a 260z look better then that. Now, a real 250gt looks great, but I still prefer the datsun shape. Maybe I am on drugs or something.

Looks far to good to part out, someone snap this up and return it to its former glory. Too many are getting parted.

Just so that everyone knows, at the drags, Shaun said to me "Brad none of these photos are going to come out any good, because my good lens is broken". "So don't expect any decent photos". You've done pretty good with inferior equipment mate.

Cheers mate, I really was just joking with my previous comment though. How much photoshop did you have to do to get my car looking that clean? Looks good. You definitely have to get that stroker engine built so that you can bring the 240z. Don't bring it until you can beat my mates stock valiant (I would never hear the end of it if a stock valiant beat a stock Z). P.S. The best of the night for me was a 14.5, but I know I can get into the 13s with more practice, just couldn't get off the line cleanly. Trap speed was 100mph, so should be good for a mid 13 if I can get the 60' times down.

I wasn't going to mention it, but now that you have brought it up, gees your slack. That was three weeks ago. Just kidding, take your time.

Check ebay, whilst looking for datsun parts I came across these, sure that there would be heaps more if you look under shift knob or gear knob. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Datsun-Fairlady-Wooden-Gearknob-Sports-2000_W0QQitemZ320369453949QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9781eb7d&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_500wt_956 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Datsun-Z-Wooden-Gearknob-240z-260z-280z_W0QQitemZ320369453793QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Car_Parts_Accessories?hash=item4a9781eae1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14#ht_500wt_956

Sounds good mate, let me know if you want anything for it tomorrow. Drop by anytime tomorrow, don't forget to remind me about that megasquirt so I don't forget this time. Brad

Not sure if I can make the BBQ, but might be able to turn up a little after, I.E. early afternoon. What time are you kicking people out Greg? Also, anyone have an ignition switch? I am looking for the part that screws into the back of the key switch barrel. I was tracing wiring and ended up breaking the 12V feed terminal off the back of mine, now I have to hotwire my car to get it going.

Put the extra 100kg under some normal size american clothes and the check in staff will just think you have been eating like them.

That sounds like man man love to me!

No, your only doing mechanical. (Sorry, but as an electrical engineer I just couldn't pass that up).

I was going to say you're doing eng so its not like you'd ever need to go to uni?

There are multiple ways to get into degrees. My wife did a year of tafe to get herself into her university degree. Where there is a will, there is a way. Good luck.