nuclear_z

Nice. Thanks for that. I will do a search through and try and find your hubs... I would love to change the rims on my car but cant until I sought the stud pattern out...

Righteo.... Well I am on the way of getting the pipework sorted for the engine bay and keeping the engineer and the RTA happy.... NEXT ISSUE: I have a 15/16" MC which is great for discs.... On the front of the car I have R33 calipers on BMW 735 discs and a 5 stud hub which is awesome... Down side - I have the standard 240z drums on the bum... The engineer would like to see the same stud number and PCD on the front and back... Anyone know of a solution that doesnt cost the earth to do? SPending some money is a given, but hopefully not thousands....

Removing the skin When I was working do resto's and such, I found the easiest thing was to use a grinder around the edge of the skin until it just breaks through to the door panel... Do this around the edge until you can lift the one peice of the door skin off... Then carefully peel the metal lip off the other side... Replacing the skin... Place the skin on in the right position and use multigrips to lock in place... Then its just a matter of careful hammer and dolly to tap the edge over... On the corners it might be necessary to slice the skins with a thin grinder disk sould you can get the shape right....

I'll take some photos of my setup.... I just use the standard bottom on the sill and the mount above the window. Be very careful about using non-factory mounts as you would need to have it engineered... THat being said, I think welding a plate to the top would be fine...

sweet... I will give jet hot a call today and get their thoughts... I have done the run around and gotten two quotes for ally piping, one $500 (labour only) and the other $600-800 labour only... So I am still looking at another $200 odd in pipe bends and straights to have it sorted... I tossed up figuring out the bends, then using straight pipe with lots of silcone pipe bends, but it'd end up looking shit and giving me heaps more joints that could potentially blow off! So, I will work out the bends, use mild steel mandral bends and straight pipe to joint the bastard together... Hopefully get away with only a few silcone joints... Jet Hot isnt that expensive... Should be a couple of hundred for the coating - still way in front of the labour cost for ally...

Absolutely! I plan on having the end 90 degree bend cut and rotated to point downwards and run a pipe from there. Thought about that, but I have never liked the look of same end ouleted tanks. Plus, that would be a considerably more expensive option at this stage... cutting and welding a pipe that I already have is relatively cheap and easy... What are peoples thoughts on JetHot (ceramic) coated mild steel cooler piping? I wouldnt have the rust issues and it might be better for transfer of heat... But is the longevity there?

I have come up with a new solution I will run the hot pipe out the same side of the car, underneath the intercooler (in front of the radiator support panel) then up and into the cooler... I think it is an eloquent solution to the hot pipe which allows me to retain the very short cold pipe.... As far as the airbox goes, I will run the inlet underneath the radiator level (in front of the engine) and into the air box... It will have a cold air intake through the holes on the other side of the radiator support panel.... And this will be the cheapest option to fabricate which is even better... I am now just wondering, should I make the pipes myself out of mild steel and have them ceramic coated, or pay someone to fab them out of aluminium...? Not sure, the ally is probably the best option, but I am looking at some serious dollars

i have been remiss in my attention to posting photos, I apologise.... On the other hand, I have been totally ontop of fixing things... i went to Pedders to ask how much they would want to lift the bum of the car 1 inch... $200!!! WTF!!?!?!?!? So I asked, how much for 2 C spanners? $20!!! So i bought the C spanners. I spent Sat afternoon lifting the bum up by 1 inch and what a difference! No more scrubbing and I can throw it into a corner and the suspension works rather than bottoming out and me skipping into the next lane!!! If anyone needs some help lifting a set of coilovers I now have the spanners to do so

Hmmm.... RB30DET.... well I hope you have life insurance

For shizzle the RB20DET!!!!! let me know if your interested in parting with your spare RB... I just sold my r33 skyline, and it had a heap of juice for a road car (i know slightly bigger engine) but it was reliable and very comfortable with low engine speeds, simply a great engine...

only bought mine recently. and I have never seen another one around town either...

Its just a matter of getting an accurate reading of what revs = 100km/hr! If you can get that your laughing! Problem is, without knowing what diff and box ratio's I have, its hard to figure it out yourself. And having a friend drive in front, behind or beside you isn't that accurate either... Nevertheless I think I have got it now.... Certainly live in picton, soon to change though if my plans on moving come about... Where are you?

i'll take some asap and get them up here...

Took the car on a short 600km trip today from Picton to Coffs Harbour and the car performed flawlessly... didnt see any hot temps, oil pressure was great, and the handling was bizzarly good... I still need to raise the bum because it scrubs on big bumps with my fat ass in it... The biggest issue for me is that the speedo doesnt read correctly and therefore I am a bit uncertain of what speedo reading = what actual speed.

Well, Hybrid Z has come through and delivered me some more pictures and a solution! So, whilst it is a bad comprise I have had to choose between two evils: a long induction track from the air inlet to compressor inlet, or running the outlet pipe from the cooler behind the radiator. I think that running the pipe behind the radiator will help my terminal inlet tempretures of 65oC. I will be able to either heat wrap the pipe behind the rad or put a heat sheild on it...

I think I am going to pick up a GTR BOV and plumb it in. They are good for 18-25psi stock standard and perform really well on GTRs so my Zed should be good... I posted the same post up on HybridZ and i saw i received this photo: The piping is reversed on this one.... thoughts? obviously the outlet from the cooler running behind the radiator is a bad move for pipe temps, but it would give me more option re an airbox on the hot side...

ah crap... means I will have to do nasty things with the air box... The engineer has basically said that whilst BOV in general are legal, because the nasty POS that currently on the car is adjustable it will be a no no... Furthermore, he said that rising rate FPRs are a no no, because they rise. He went on to say that the RTA & EPA dont really give a S**T that factory FPR are rising rate, so I may not pass on that alone....

Hi Guys, Just posted this on HybridZ so will get more answers quickly... But essentially I need to fit a factory airbox (from any make) and get rid of the atmo BOV... Does anyone have pics of a turbo L series with a front mount to show me some thoughts of how to route the piping... Photos of my bay: To engineer this setup in aus I need to: 1. Get rid of the pod filter - no loss as the clown who built the system stuck it behind the radiator 2. Get rid of the atmo blow off valve - again why bother in the first place when they attract so much attention to the car? I'm not sure if its obvious but there are a couple of chromed mild steel pipes used in the system at the moment and THEY HAVE T GO!!! reason for posting, does anyone with a turbo L28 have some photos of their engine bay I can have a squiz at to get some odeas about piping??? Cheers, Thomas

Well I paid $13,500 for my 73 240z. It has a pretty decent paint job with only a couple of humidity bubbles and a tiny rust patch on the drivers sill. It has an OK interior, with new carpets and had nice looking buckets that weren't good for the road... No sound system, sound deadening, or heater/aircon system. Lots of work done to the suspension with koni adjustable shocks and adjustable arms and sway bars. Engine is an L28 injected turbo that was running a hideous tune and sounded a bit bad, but compression was spot on and the leak down test showed promising results.

Mate I would be very careful about that... Having known it to happen in other shops and the owner becomes liable for works completed there. Should a person without experience zap themselves, your screwed... Should an inexperienced person leave the hoist safety off when under and it fall on them, your screwed.... Absolute insurance nightmare. Or even simpler things, they use your tools and break one, is it their fault or was it time for the tool to break? What happens fall down inside some inner guard to remain for the ages?

Mate is it me or is the whole firewall done in hammerite type paint??? If so, prepare to have a whole world of more rust issues!!! The stuff can lift off the metal in sheets which look fine and rust away behind it...

Mate, my partner is an Environmental Engineer and she was in a similar situation when she was an undergrad. Her old employer was essentially using her as an admin assistant. Shoot your resume off to some engineering firms and let them know what your interested in. You'll get some good response I bet as Mech Engineers are a rare breed... Thomas

Want to trade for my lovely Autometer one? Its a fine guage, just I dont like having something sitting above th dash, looking for defects when there is a nice looking one behid the wheel...

sorry to drag up old posts.... I have a nasty automter tacho on the dash of my 240 as the standard tacho wont work with the Haltech, or electronic ignition... I heard there is an article somewhere about which wire goes where when a conversion like mine has been done on hybrid, or here, but I can find it.... Any pointers?

I'll post the afr's as soon as I get off my backside and get the print out. 13:1 on boost is quite aggressive tuning I agree. Its mostly a transitional thing. It goes to 12:1 when it reaches max boost of 8psi or so... Not planning on putting a valve in, like the Varex system... I call it the butt-plug.... its basically a big restrictor.... has to be bolted in the cannon and restricts the amount of flow coming out, therefore noise I am planning on putting either a proper 3inch muffler or a 2 1/2 inch one... THe gas velocity should be good then as it will have cooled off a bit by the time it gets there. I'm running E6s software... Its, well OK. It does the job well enough, cold start is fine.... its just an older system with less features than say my Greddy Emanage Ultimate I have in my Skyline. Currently I dont think I am going to play with it all that much. I want to get the damn thing engineered first...