nuclear_z

No Mate, no cat in the 240... Hmm, question to pose to an engineer though as if the 280 came equiped with it, they might require you to run one. I use the ally specific one... Dont have any overheating problems at all and the condition of the coolant has remained good despite 20,000km being put on it since december... (I drive it a lot ) Point taken though. Manufacturers spec is usually best. But my engine is a bastardised thing anyway... L24 block, unknown guts (told to be l28 internals) and L28e head, etc...

Engine Oil: I was using a 10-40w oil in my l28et but found I blew a little smoke on boost... Now I am using a 20-50w and dont have an issue. Gearbox Oil: I'm using VMX80 Diff: Using a Castrol VPR90 (I think is the designation). Put it in yesterday so we'll see how we go. Uses about 1.4litres Coolant: I use a tectoyl branded goop because I have an ally radiator... Most would suit I would think. Plugs: BP6ES-11 would be fine for an atmo car. I use the same plug but gap them down to .9mm for use in the turbo

Fibreglass is nasty nasty stuff... handy, but nasty... I am working on a drink holder which would fit in where the ash tray is... So instead of having the tray, when I slide the door open a drink holder is there... Mount it from the body, so you dont have any modifications to do on the console... Only issue is the major heat that I get in the tunnel, great for coffee, not s good for cold drinks

I was actually planning on plastic welding, but didn't have the welder and had glass. Hats why it's glasses inside and out. Plastic weldng would be so much better though. Very interested in ideas of other people. Thanks madz

DISCLAIMER There are probably better ways to do this. Substances used in the creation of this console may harm you, cause you to get high, or most likely do both. Tools used in the creation can be used for body art, though most likely will strip your skin and leave you feeling pretty horrible. DONT USE GEAR YOU DONT KNOW HOW TO! Ultimately, I succeeded in finishing the centre console, but there was always a chance that I wouldnt have. Do this at your own risk. Tools Needed cheap nasty paint brushes Fiberglass resin, catalyst, mat BOG, filler, whatever you want to call it rags prep-sol (wax and grease remover) screw drivers pliers sand paper Electric Sander drill with various bit sizes Dremel You may be able to to the job without some of the above tools, such as a dremel, but it certainly makes life easier. Process 1. Remove the centre console from your car and strip it of everything, including the strip around the back of the console. You should end up with something like this: 2. Next thing to do is take up the Dremel (You could also get this done with sand paper and a drill if you dont have a dremel...) Drill the ends of the cracks to stop them from spreading any further. You then want to open up the crack a little bit so light comes through all the way and the edges of the crack are tapered. Also, rough the inside of the centre console up around the area of the crack to ensure that the fiberglass has a surface to bind to This will allow the fiberglass when it occurs to will lock the crack closed. This photo is over a later stage but demonstrates why you want to open the crack up... 3. Fiberglass... This stuff sticks to everything! Make sure you are wearing gloves and have everything of value out of your pockets... HINT: DONT PICK UP YOUR PHONE with resin on your gloves.... Prepsol the areas to be fiberglassed the cut up some mat into small peices to go on the inside and outside of the areas that are cracked. Fiberglassing is pretty straighforward, the only advice is mix the catalyst in the right amount so the resin doesnt go off to quickly or not at all... 4. Sanding back. Once the fiberglass has set its time for sanding. Whilst you could do this by hand, I recommend using an electric sander. Make sure you sand lightly and keep a good eye on whats occuring because the fiberglass resin will be much harder then the surrounding plastic. I used a 60grit paper on a electric sander... If I was doing it by hand I would use made a 120grit. Next, using a air gun if you have one, blow the whole console off and make sure that there are no dust deposits anywhere. Mix you bog up and smoothly put it on. NOTE: do not use bog once it starts going hard, you'll end up with lots of air pockets and it'll be a mess. once its gone off, sand it back using 60grit (electric) or 120 grit (hand) until you get close to the bottom, then use a 240grit. Should end up looking like this. Go over the rest of the console with 240grit paper to rough it up slightly. 5. Filler Primer Painting The critical thing with painting is making sure that the surface is imaculatly CLEAN! Firstly, blow the hole console off with an air gun, focusing on the areas where you have bogged up as this is where pin wholes will appear. Secondly, using a clean rag prep-sol the whole console, and then with another rag wipe excess prep-sol off... I then used a clear plastic primer on the console... Once I had waited the requisit 4 hours, I then gave it another blow off, and without touching it sprayed a 3 coats of primer on. BACK TO SANDING. You want to use a 240grit sand paper and by hand block the centre console back... It doesnt matter at this stage if you rub through the primer as you will prime it again. FINAL PRIME Again, blow it off with an air gun and wipe it with prepsol using another rag to wipe excess off. Then you want to spray a fine coat of primer, then as many as you want to build up the orange peel (rough texture). leave it for the required drying time then spray colour on.

Using a standard computer is the cheapest route initially, and is less likely to give u issue down the line. That being said, standard ecu's only give good economy when everything operates like standard. Similar inlet tracks and temps, injectors, the whole kit... Even changing an exhaust may effect economy. I drove from coffe back home today, well over 500kms and used 47 litres. That's on a over 200bhp turbo l28... It's got a great tune though and it was highway all the way

Hmmm, as long as we have a car preacher the world is ok Sorry about not getting the how to up, work has been crazy busy. Will do soon.

Awesome your getting it undercover! With regard to the tarp, just be ultra careful because they keep the damp in as well... Maybe hook the tarp up so the semi enclosed shed has walls instead.? Plastic bags and tape work well as a temporary window if it's under cover

Thanks for all the comments guys! And girl I don't know what the longevity of this fix will be like, I would do a whole lot different if I do another. Suprisingly it probably only took 5 hours work, though I did rush the final stages more then I should have. For those on a tight budget or scared of he silly money good condition consoles are going for, this may be an answer, it probably cost me $75 bucks of materials I should be able to put together a how to tomorrow, if anyone has suggestions I'd love to hear them!

Okie Dokie. What section do u want me to put it in?

Major Progress!!!! I have finally pulled my finger out and finished my centre console. I am reasonably happy with how it turned out. I must admit I rushed the end stages a little more then I should, but I was terrified I would get stuck for time and wait another almost 5 months to finish it..... Let me know if people are interested in a write up about how I did it, but I think its pretty straight forward. here is some progress and final pics... I will be adding my new leather shift boot and reinstalling the alloy trim and ash tray this afternoon and will get some more pics for people then.

Dont worry I got that Just being a pain in the ass to the "seller" I received a response "you are so f##kn funny , dont give up you day job..." Awesome seller aye?

i emailed enquiring about the zed for sale... no response Apparently he doesnt want to sell

The funny part is that its a DEALER selling it... Have emailed them.

My L28ET puts out 200rwhp on 8psi... But, my engine is a little tired and I am not sure the condition of the ignition system... This beautiful puppy will definately punch some numbers if tuned properly... I reckon an easy 250rwhp on 8-10psi and maybe 300rwhp on 15psi?

Just for a quick visit... Work visit....

hmmm, if we can measure my diff ratio, and yours is lower I'll grab it

all cars in the 70s were required to self cancel... Mine self cancels, however the switch is dodgey

First thing, silicon vaccum hose does not have the material re-enforcement inside it like silicon radiator and turbo piping hose does. Therefore it is not as strong and has a higher likelihood of balooning then the larger hoses do. Nevertheless it apparently has a longer lifespan, is more resistant to heat and corrosion than standard black rubber hosing. I have never used fuel hose as a vaccum line, but it would be quite strong and very resistant to corrosion. I could only presume that due to its reenforced construction would be quite resistant to balooning. I have used both and found no difference in either. But I always made sure the lines were as neatly routed, away from potential damaging objects (radiator fans, alternator fans, etc...), and routinely replaced them. Silicon is a little bit too gimmicky for me at this stage.

OMG mate, its a joke... Everyone is allowed to have a little joke. The thread is about an awesome workshop, and a silly question came up which people have laughed a giggled about. Madz got it right, the link works, bit of fun... Jeezzz....

You want to consider how how the vaccum lines to the solenoid are. Short vaccum lines to boost solenoids are definately better for response, even if you use silicon vaccum hose.

Question is, what would he insert?

I'll be in Coffs Harbour with mine, not quite far north coast but not too far away, week after next

a woman with the simple solution... NICE Maybe one day i'll buy you a beer and you can explain a few things to me, things that all men really want to know

Problem solved! Put wriggled off connector back onto charge light and it works On another note, I bought a new gear shift gaiter and am going to finish off my centre console (I hope) in the coming week or two...