Aaron Neubauer

As the topic subject suggests.....

BRE spoiler, brake master cylinder and under dash loom went yesterday.

Gauges sold to Gareth and Krizza. Found some more items that might be of interest. BRE style front lip Galderi spec - $50.00 260Z brake master cylinder new in box - $75.00 indicators licence plate illumination housing emissions stuff door mirrors brake booster - free door latches centre console fascia

I recorded a WOT run with the WBO2 and I'm pretty happy with the SM needles. I had the expectation that it would be rich as all buggery but it was little on the lean side which is not totally great for power but a fair compromise. Now all I need is to organise that dyno run!

The MSD gets its trigger pertronix unit in the dizzy. I'm not familiar with calibrating the 280z unit to a different scale. I had an EA Falcon fitted and calibrated to that tacho face. If you look in the verification photo you can see the holes drilled to fix the face to the unit closer to the needle. No how much the tech tried he could not get it to align with the scale 100%. It ended up costing the same amount as the Autometer guage I had in the dash prior to refitting the 280Z unit. I think the signal the MSD unit puts out is pretty clean and consistent 5V square wave.

Found some gauges. I have confirmed that the Volts/fuel and temp/oil function with a 12V power source and the needles move. Clock doesn't work and is not for sale at this stage. I cannot confirm the tach works but from memory worked when I pulled it from the 'bus' a decade ago. Tach - $75 volts/fuel - $50 temp/oil - $50

I can confirm the tacho with this mod performs accurately up to my redline of 6.5k when used with the MSD 6AL.

Is this what we were talking about on the weekend? When it comes to comp height I use precision international's website. 9 times out of 10 they have comp height, nice picture etc. AND you can search by engine If I have the motor correct, 32mm +1.5mm dome. Considering the flycut valves there'd be some meat in the top. http://www.precisionintl.com/Engine.aspx?ID=1363&EID=12684

I've had one of my supercheap go jack's seal leak a little. I can attest to the debris 'chocking' the wheel. It doesn't take much. Its frustrating getting some momentum up turning a car around on concrete and having that energy go to waste putting a chase in the floor. Grrr. That aside they are dang handy if your shifting cars perpendicular in a shed.

I think I've got back to everyone. In my rummaging I have found the following if anyone is interested: glove box liner glove box door non-retracting rear seat belts front passenger foot rest 6 x standard low impedence 188cc injectors. I think these were a set I had cleaned and flow checked around september 2016, I will have to check

Hi guys, I've sold the house and need to shift to Bundaberg in a few weeks. Preference is for pick up but I can post. There might be some lag time for postage quotes though. I am also open to offers. Extractors to suit square port L6 (w/- O2 sensor bung) and mercury muffler taken from my 240Z recently - $50.00 260Z headlights - $50 (taillights in photo have been sold) 260Z 2+2 door armrests, black - $25 for both 260Z 2+2 under dash loom - $10 280zx loom with ECU (unknown condition) - $50 260Z left and right lower valance - $50 260Z steering wheel - $20 260Z 2+2 vinyl hood linings – give away Autometer 5” in dash tacho #3990 (used in my 240Z) - $150 MSD soft cut rev control #8728 (wired in for the first 100 miles of new engine and never actually used to rev cut in this time) - $100 R200 half shaft I can’t remember which side - $100 PM me if your interested in anything. I still have boxes to go through so if your after something particular from a 260Z 2+2 let me know.

That is interesting to know RE breakdown over 5k rpm. I will have to perform a stress test on the weekend when I get a chance to get some heat into the motor .

Hi all. I wanted to return my tacho from my autometer 5” to a stock functionality with the least fuss. This mod should work for any Nissan/Datsun direct input style (NOT induction) tachometer reading from a 5v square wave tach input eg. aftermarket EFI, CDI ignition module. In the context of this write up I am using 280z tach internals in a 240z housing and the signal is generated from a MSD 6AL. I haven’t included dissembly/assembly of the housing in this write up, just mods to the PCB. In the case of the 280z PCB, the input is a 12v feed and typically reduced to around 5V peak internally by resistors. Putting a 5V source through this will reduce the voltage even further (Ohm's law) and will not be recognised. All you have to do is locate this internal resistor and remove/bridge it out of the input signal line. In my case I tinned up from 8g wire and bridged out the resistor. Make sure there are no other forms of resistance between the tach peg and signal source and you should be right to roll. There was a potentiometer in my tacho which was set to half way and I did not need to adjust. If someone has covered this before please delete. I had a quick search through the forums and couldn't spot anything previous.

Subscribed! I too have been thinking about putting the matching number L24 after a long term build back into the 240z.

If your making a direct replacement with complying components I would have thought only a mod plate fitted by an approved persons under QLD legalisation would be required, no engineering required. I think this is under code LK clause 1.2 for the NCOP for light vehicles. I think I will look into replacing the lap sash with a non-retractable. Anyone had good experiences with Hemco?

Hi Gareth, exhaust is 2 1/2". I don't have any power figures from the webers, only data I had is from the wideband data logger and butt dyno

Hi guys, The seatbelts in my 240Z are a bit tired and I am considering replacing them. I have seen people have used Hemco. I haven't contacted them as yet. I have found a rare spares kit on ebay, has anyone got any feedback on rare spares or have used this kit? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/232246201378?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Not much of a video. It's all I got for now. https://youtu.be/YVLYNyb3aSw

Hi guys, I thought I'd post my what data I was able to collect on my stock 240Z temp sender unit as part of my megasquirt install. Maybe someone might find it helpful! 240z temp sender.txt

Got a bit of an update. My original plans have been cut short by a career opportunity with my company to head up a new team trading out of our Bundaberg office. look out any up Bundy way! I will have to learn to like the rum though, personally I think its poison haha. My solution in lieu of insufficient time to finish the conversion to EFI before the shift was rebuild and use the 240z round top SUs. I ran a Ztherapy kit with SM needles through them and fitted them today. I used the old E46 manifold after match porting and running an 80 grit flap disc to get rid of some the horrible casting marks. Also fitted is a Zstory race-sport header and JDM style muffler. I recycled the old hotdog pipe from my old system. The headers are a close reproduction of the old Nissan Motorsport headers that are NLA. I'm very impressed with the precision and quality of work. The engine sounds mighty nice now! I got the car running today. In comparison to the 45s, the twin SUs are not that bad in terms of throttle response and air flow. Granted my stroker isn't wild like a cut snake. I was surprised. Throttle response was similar and that flat spot was completely gone! AFR at idle and cruising sat around the 14.5 mark and WOT was around 11.5-12.5. I have finished the megasquirt but will most likely be reduced to ignition only and accessory control like rad fans and maybe a gawdy ricer shift light. I hope to line up a few dyno runs when the weather cools off a bit. I'm hoping for a positive result to support the use of SUs on a stroker motor. My butt dyno is telling me the round tops aren't far behind the 45s I had!

How far do the gaurds from the Arita kit stick out from the body?!

Thanks for that Jeff. There must be variances in dizzies, the spindles that hold the trigger disc in the ones I have look very different (narrower) from the ones in the photo. It would be easy if they were the same and could sleeve that easily over the dizzy shaft! I have decided to make the CAS fitment a long term project and use the pertronix as a trigger and retain the MSD setup just to get the car running. The MSD supported the motor up up to 7.5k rpm previously and I just want to get the car running .

Hi Gareth, The intention at this stage is to use the RB CAS with a 24-2 trigger disc to mimic a 12-1 crank trigger. I'm finding there is a bit of buggerising around mainly in getting the disc to sit 'properly' on the dizzy shaft in relation to the CAS. I'm trying to recycle the 'D' shaft from the R31 dizzy and sleeve it over a cut down L series dizzy shaft just for neatness. I think if I can get it to work it's only fair if I try and document it for all to use.

After lots of umming and arring I decided to switch to EFI. Something I thought I'd never do! Matty was extremely helpful in "alleviating" the webers from my care and helping me source an EFI manifold from Trypich. Thanks to Jason who through my constant harassment is providing tutelage through the whole process. The short term plan to 'choke' the engine is as follows: P72 EFI manifold, cut open, mildly cleaned up and match ported RB20 or SR20 throttle body Megasquirt 1 on a V3.0 board with a few mods running Extra code (which turned up today) modified dizzy to squeeze in an RB30 CAS and run a 12-1 trigger disc. I'm currently CADing up a baseplate to fix the CAS into the dizzy. AU II Falcon ignition in wasted spark surge tank recycling my Holley Red pump (overkill ) as a lift and a Bosch 044 or equivalent for high pressure I'm currently going through all the hose end injectors I have to find a suitable functioning set with enough capacity for this motor. I had a full set of RB20DET ones but when dropped off for a clean did not fire, much sadness . I have this feeling it'll be a pain to swap to EFI but worth it in the long run.

Sooo, I can safely put my experiences with the DCOE152 in the negative basket. Nothing we did could make the 1500-3000 horrendous stumble and lean condition disappear. The cam isn't anything crazy (actually a "73" cam) and engine shouldn't stall or backfill with only mediocre levels of throttle increase. The harmonic balancer is a SWM item which has 10 degree marks the entire circumference with no reference to TDC. Three times we confirmed TDC with a variety of tools to measure various parts of the engine make sure the timing was right. I pulled the dizzy apart and tried a variety of weights and springs to make sure it was advancing correctly. Several ranges of plug were tried and BP7s were settled on. So timing was strong, correct and advancing properly. After playing with the webers the hole could not be bridged without compromising some other part of the rev range. Linkage operation and fuel pressure was triple checked. One surprising outcome was that the engine could idle at 450-500rpm and start super easy as long as it hadn't been sitting days drying fuel out of the intake manifold. We concluded that it is the 3 hole progression circuit causing the problems. The next step is to try some other carbs. I have pairs of 40phh Type Ts and 44phh-2 Type Q Mikunis sitting on my bench for my 18RG engine destined for my ol' Corona. Type Ts are easier to come across so they are the likely candidate with a Ø34mm choke. Too small I know but a good compromise, I want the red beast to be my daily. If I find another Type Q, banzinga, but I feel my chances are slim. Chances are I will sell the DCOE152 if the mikunis work. They are a well made carb, just haven't worked for me on the stroker motor.