Zedman240®

Hey Rev, do you still have the original fuel rail that was on the engine? The one with the fuel return (two metal lines that go around the engine across the front and hook up to the fuel line and fuel return line). Fuel to go to the carbs then excess fuel goes back to the tank. Those two hose connections under the Mikuni's are next to the accelerator pump for the carb and I haven't seen those before. Daniel! some help here! (Dazzed). Like Sulio mentioned before, that large metal pipe out the side of the block is for crankcase ventilation.

I'll bet an old maccas "fry" I found under my seat, and a pickle someone threw on a window.

I was going to say as well the power you need to push a car through the air at high speeds is enormous! I've seen pics of cars that are equivalent aerodynamically to a chest of drawers after a high speed run, return with the roof caved in from just from the force of air against it. Unless this car is only going to be driven on a salt flat it will be useless on the public road. I Lycra clad cyclist will be leaving you at the lights! The secret to high speed is to have gearing low enough to help the engine multiply the torque at the wheels, and making it easier at high speed to push it through the air. Plus all engines make most power higher up the rev range. With a too low diff ratio, you are going to run out of road before you reach 4th! Why do drag cars have 4.11-5.8's? I just think you are wasting time looking for a ratio like that when you can find a great 3.9 LSD for good all round performance! (plenty on epray)

Just wondering how much oil pressure should there be under crank? Removed the oil pressure sender tonight and turned the engine over and nothing comes out. I remember with the L series at least you would see the oil pressure gauge move before the engine started while cranking. Thought the sender was failed, fitted a new one with no results. Sender wont work if there is no oil to pressurize it! Filled the sump with oil, pre-filled the oil filter before installation like I always do but nothing! Did a quick bit of research and apparently early RB25's had a oil pump drive issue. Hope this one doesn't or else some conversion parts will be on the market and the original L24 will be back in the engine bay!

I used the standard electric fuel pump with the Dellorto's but used the original fuel rail with the return for the Hitatchi's. Never gave me any issues.

I use Better Brakes. There must be one down your end somewhere....

Thanks Fu for that Top Gear episode...... I have never laughed so much!! If you are a fan of Alfa's, best not to watch the latest episode...

As long as there is power on, I'll be happy!

That's probably one of the best 2+2's I've seen for a verryyyy long time! Mighty fine taste you have there.... Well done!

When you bleed the master cylinder, plenty of fluid should come out. Have you adjusted the rod properly that goes from the brake pedal to the m/c? There should be a little play there and not enough to push the piston a bit when you install the m/c and bolt it up.

Cranking the RB25 tonight to see if I got oil pressure (before I actually start the thing) but after about 2-3mins at starting speed I had no pressure. Usually after a few seconds the gauge should start climbing a little. The sender was from a old Patrol at the wreckers so I'm thinking that sender is farked. Is there a good way to test the sender off the engine to see if it registers any pressure? Or should I ditch it and just get another one? I grounded the wire to the block with the ignition on and the gauge read full so the gauge is working..Trying to save the pennies after forking out $2000 on the new Wolf ECU!

In Melbourne I go to "Better Brakes". Don't know if you have them up there!!

Just another step completed tonight . Wired the starter, alternator and finished modifying the intake manifold water by-pass to clear the throttle bodies. Cranking the engine after adding the oil to see if I got oil pressure but nothing was coming up. Not sure if the sender works; as I removed it from an old Nissan 4WD at a wrecker. Hoped to see the needle move on the gauge but zero! Checked the gauge by grounding it and got full travel. Ordered the Wolf V500, should see it tomorrow and then the fun begins! If anyone out there has a ZR200, would love a pic of the engine underneath of the sump and crossmember to compare to mine...Thats all for the moment, more to come!! Cant wait till I put on youtube the first startup!

I think so but make sure the clutch housing has the same height as your original. If its different, you may have to play with different length thrust bearing carriers. Most of the time its no big deal; they all fit together.

I could imagine taking off from a set of lights with a 3.1 diff; while the engine is struggling at 2500 rpm in first, and while everyone else has accelerated away and left you alone, you will probably spend the next 15-20 seconds slowly gaining speed and reach around 60+kph then you go for second, another low rumble from the engine struggling to get more speed and so on. Then you get to the next set of lights...Might as well get a commodore...

Hmm..like mixing beer and Coke, I like them separate, but not together...I think its for those that would love a 240/260Z but can't quite afford it at the moment. No rust issues, all the nice comforts and trimmings without the hassle of rust repairs......

There must still be air in the system. Start from the Master cylinder and then from the furthest wheel from the MC to the closest. Did the 280's go to diagonal split system? I'm not sure on that one..Might have to bleed differently if it is. Also make sure the calipers are square to the disc. That can cause a low pedal.

errr...I dont know what to think?

The ECU works out load by throttle position versus RPM. So if your throttle position is 90% and RPM is about 2500, it knows you're hard on the gas and need more fuel! That's the advantage of the ITB's, get rid of that restrictive air flow meter! Rather than measuring the air going into the engine, it works it out by seeing what the other sensors can tell it (the ECU). Hope that helps!

Like you said before ozy, You have found a zed that I'm sure anyone on this forum would kill to own, well done and it looks great! Its a shame it aint coming down to Melbourne so we can see it in person! Enjoy the hell out of it!

I'm one step away from installing some Webers or Dellorto's on the RB25 for now just to get it going.....but then I need to find a way to control ignition. Buying the Wolf this week to start the wiring job....I think I need some counseling...I'm losing it!

Mine is behind the radiator. At first, the studs that hold the original plastic fan on the water pump pulley used to touch and rub on the thermo fan under brakes.....took me a few goes to find that out! replaced them with some button head cap screws and that solved that problem! I have those davies-craig fans which are low profile and fit without any issues. When you wire one up just make sure you use a relay, as they suck the power down!

Might be a good idea to measure the water temp more accurately rather than rely on the gauge for now. With a genuine Nissan thermostat, mine used to hover just over half way on the gauge. I checked it with a infra-red pyrometer on the thermostat housing and it read 86C. I'm using a alloy 3 core radiator and a single 12" thermo; changing it to two 8" later...

I'll be there with bells hanging off somewhere.....without the zed :'(

Got some number plates and just curious what area they are from and any other info.... Appreciated!