Zedman240®

Hey Rev, I'd be checking the battery with a load tester, and check the starter motor. Some batteries that are on the way out do some strange things. How old is your battery anyway? If its more than 3 years, I would suspect that. Just a guess though...

Make sure nothing is in the way, and it helps if you put the trans in 1st and with a drive shaft "dummy" in the back, turn it back and forth while you try and push it home. Is the clutch disc in the centre? Theres quite a few things to make sure are aligned when you are having fun installing a gearbox...Without being there its harder!

Already did the diagram; its under the electrical tech thread. Not sure how to add the link plus I'm at work ready to close up!

Best example I can think of is a car wheel + tyre. When they are balancing the wheel and tyre, the weights they use are small but have a huge influence even at a slow rpm. Its not worth the hassle just to save a few hours of extra work. Might end up costing way more in $$$ and time Didn't mean to spoil the moment...

If I were you I would repair/replace that broken bolt! It will put everything out of balance. All those bolts are usually M8 high tensile bolts; pretty hard to break but here we are! You don't want to find youreslf putting it all together then find a sharp vibration at 6000 rpm then having to strip it all apart again for one measly bolt..Theres the right way and the quick way

Anything is possible as long as you have the moula.....and that motor looks like you need lots of cash for!! Go for it if you own a couple of oil fields

This is the only latest pic I can find of my high maintenance zed; it just needed some help to get around

Coventry's stores around Melbourne are starting to close one by one! The Moorabbin one closed its doors about a month ago... JP, if you drilled a 7 or 9mm hole it would've been good! 8mm doesn't suit any nutserts that we have. If you go to a 9mm hole, you can use a M6 thread. The nutserts can go up to 3.2mm thickness in material too. Let me know how many you're after and also what size bolt you are going to use for your ZG flares; I can tell you what size hole to drill and which nutsert to use.

The shop is in Moorabbin, but I have a tool at home you can use. Let me know what size bolt you plan on using, and I can tell you all the info you need.

Thats the beauty about the 2+2's..You can fit the biggest rubber in the rear. Your car with the flares and big dished wheels will give people sore necks with them trying to keep staring at your Zed! Its looking great Micheal..

If you need any, I work at a specialized rivet wholesaler and we also stock all types of nutserts (rivnuts) and have a tool here you can use. They come in zinc steel, alloy and stainless with different flange types and threads from M3 - M12. Let me know which one and I can supply them.

Brabham, with that diff thing, I know 3.5 ratio diffs are pretty common; they came in all auto zeds. Find one of those for the moment and install it and that will be a good indicator of what to expect with the 3.3 when you find one.

If it is a rear wheel cylinder, I was told a while ago 260Z wheel cylinders are no longer made. That's why I did my rear disc conversion about 4 years ago..If you had plans in the future of any brake upgrades, now is the time!

Are they wearing across the whole tread width or just on the edges? If they are a soft compound tyre, they don't last long. If they are a plastic compound and last for 100,000k's, I'd be worried!

The light on the dash is switched on by excess piston movement at the "dual circuit pressure differential switch" brake line junction; when there is decreased pressure in one circuit over the other eg. front to back. Its mounted just underneath the master cylinder in the engine bay, has the short steel lines directly from the MC. I'd say a wheel cylinder has failed and you haven't seen the brake fluid leak yet....Check the rears first!

Hey Ash! well done..I couldnt hear it from my house...something must be wrong! Your thrust bearing problem is similar to my water pump issue. Had it out twice this week! Let me know if you need your cam belt done; I can do it with my eyes closed!

For anyone wishing to install a "missile" type ignition switch and start button, this is just a quick "how to" wire it up and make it plug in without butchering any of your original loom. If your ignition switch has stuffed up like mine, and you couldn't be bothered finding a replacement, or just like to have something different, just read on. The plug is a Narva 6 way spade terminal plug that is available from Repco or Bursons etc, Start button should be a decent, heavy duty item (Hella) and two of the 5 wires (Red + Black see pic below)in the loom are twice the thickness of the rest. Ignition switch can be bought from either Repco or even Jaycar Electronics together with the "missle "switch flip cover. It should be a 20-30 amp toggle switch to handle the amps. All up parts should be around $30 ish dollars. You will notice that when you have it wired, you will have to make sure any accessory while the engine is cranking should be off. This arrangement lets you have anything "on" (wipers, radio etc) when it should be "off", for any spare power to go to the starter motor for cranking! Or else the engine may not start. I have never tried it so I could be wrong..... When you have everything, wiring shouldn't take you more than 20 minutes. Just make sure you measure the amount of wire you need to take the switch where you want it and the start button and to hide the wiring. Just have a good set of crimpers and a can of your favorite beverage on hand. I've included a wiring diagram and a pic of my plug for your reference. The plug that goes into the original ignition switch, should plug directly into the Narva plug. If I have forgotten any details, please ask! Also, when I did this mod to my 240Z, I removed the ignition lock and assembly so no key is needed to start. I don't drive it every day and I do have a battery isolator so I can make the zed hard to steal. But if you wish to retain the steering lock, always insert the key and turn it to run!! before anything!

You'd be a great teacher scootag!! hehehhe

It is a good idea to at the very least get the clutch/flywheel balanced as a unit before you install it. When I did mine, I was told lucky I did it because the clutch and flywheel were way out of balance! Would have shortened the life of the crank if I left it alone.. Any good machine shop can lighten your flywheel for next to nothing. usually when they face it you can ask them to take some kg's off! (then balance it)

I'll get onto it today.... parts for it are available from Repco and Jaycar easily. I'm hoping the wiring is the same for 240/260 Ignition key switch looms though....

I'm sure it stands for "Exhaust Gas Recirculation" Or an EGR Valve.

heheh...I did get rid of the ignition switch before as it started to play up, so in went the missile switch ignition and start button! In the video I did forget to turn on the main isolator before I tried to start the engine. I made it all plug in anyways so I cant put it back to normal at anytime.....

Ahh..Thanks again Lurch! This time I went with a paper (ACL) gasket on the water pump and no leaks! Finished it again for the 3rd time today! I've become an expert on cambelts on the RB's! Anyways, video is on youtube; still pending when I left it last though but heres the link of it running finally! On tomorrow's agenda is to reduce some of the front camber and increase the ride height a smidge, then get an exhaust made then the dyno session with the all important figures to see if it was all worth it! Nzeder, hope to see yours in this state real soon! I want to hear your setup more!!

Another update for this week. Seems with this conversion its been one of those "one step forward, two steps back" deals. Got it back from Wolf (AEM) in Bayswater yesterday, runs fine but after giving it a little rev, a heap of water decided to spew out from near the water pump! I used high quality Permatex high temp copper sealant on the pump but looks like it gave way! I was going to video it running but a stream of hot water erupting from the front wouldn't make it a pleasurable viewing...Plus catching a flu on Sunday night hasn't helped one bit! Tomorrow I will start stripping it down again and have a look what happened. Thinking should I make a paper gasket instead of using sealant? Just picturing this happening at a sprint at Winton....and how can I get it home? It did sound great when it was running though!!!