Zedman240®

I know with the MSCA sprints they now use "Dorian"?? transponders so per run they can have upto 15 cars or more and run for 15 mins. So on some tracks you can do more than 3 laps. Before with the manual timing system, people had to be the timers and they werent really up to the task of keeping time for several cars at once. And laps were limited to 3 with a warmup lap. Big improvement, I remember at Calder we were doing 6 laps per run! Its great because by the time you get into the "groove" you still have several laps to go!

It depends on the coil; if it needs a ballast resistor or not. The reason for the ballast resistor is for the coil. On starting, a full 12V is supplied to the coil to give a bigger spark to help the starting process, when the engine has started,and the key is returned to the "run" position, power goes through the resistor and gets dropped down to approx 9V for running. If you supplied a coil 12V continously that needs a ballast resistor you will have a melted down piece of metal that used to look like a coil. Go by what is written on the coil. It either says 12V or "use with ballast resistor". Hope that sheds some light....

Ohhh!! can you find me another set for $200? geez! I'm just using a cast manifold for now till I can find a set of headers....that's a bargain!

Is that noise really that sharp and loud like in the audio clip? You might have some internal diff issues there....

Maybe a Zed ute to really confuse us? Dont forget to add the bullbar, truck mudflaps, 300ft cb antenna, sidemarker lamps along the side steps, boss hog type horns and the all imoprtant "runs on rum" sticker. J/K!

With these sort of thing happening occasionally, makes you think of installing a rev limiter in case of anything happening in future! One of those babies can prevent major engine damage! Lucky nothing was damaged, just a small case of valve bounce!

As far as I believe, the offset is still identical to a 260. Hub is from a 260Z and not modified. Pads are about 40-50% and bearings still the same old ones. Might have some new ones kicking about so I could change them or make it a bit cheaper as is. Best thing to do is get some new steel ones made then install all of it in one go. To mount the calipers, one of the "ears" were cut off and re welded to match the R32 caliper. If anyone wants the pair of struts "as is" price will be $400. Cheap quick solution for a brake upgrade!

Up for grabs I have my old front brake setup from my 240Z for $500. They are a Valiant 280mm ventilated disc with R32 4 piston calipers with the strut modified to suit the calipers. Struts have also been sectioned approx 35mm and have a coilover sleeve fitted. You will need the sleeve nuts, top hat, spring and shocks to finish. Priced the components from Toperformance (Koni distributor in Mitcham, Melbourne) to complete the struts at around $250. Only thing is I kept the dust caps from the hubs, (but will try to get other ones!) and one strut will need some welding along the top of the threaded sleeve after you install the sleeve nuts; because if you weld before, you may not be able to fit the nuts on! If you need more info, PM me or call 0413 243 760. Thanks, Dimitri PS, heres a older pic of the setup, as its not quite together at this time....working on it now...

Yeah Sulio, You should be able to find that removable plate somewhere. I think it was for removing the bolts from the torque converter before you separate the box from the motor. I'll be going to Z factory tomorrow, I'll see if he has a spare one.

You know you will have to post a youtube video of you eating it now....

Glen, try where the fusible links are; near the driver's side strut tower. Depending on the model, either they are under those clear plastic covers or out in the open. If you have a vented bonnet, rain gets into them and corrodes the connection. Or just the switch is rooted. Just a guess!

Nzeder, yours is looking real good! was thinking of getting the "pro"series trumpets with mesh covers but thats going to have to wait. I'm doing alot of thinking of how to setup the throttle linkage along the manifold. Have two spots for the rod ends to go on some threaded rod and hope it shouldn't flex from the length. By midweek hope to get something together.

I sometimes think installers quote some huge stupid price to scare you off because they don't want to do the job. I said yes to a stereo installation in a 280ZX a while ago, and I think that will be my last one! Not impossible, but a pain in the rectum!

What I was told to do is to hang a plumb bob from the center of the crank, another one from the center of the prop shaft where it exits the transmission, and another one from the tail shaft at the diff end. You can have angle differences in the vertical, but not too big in the diagonal. Hope its clear! Mine is approx 3-4mm out in the center. All three points of the plumb bobs should be in a line.

I've been busy again in the shed tonight; decided to bolt up the throttle bodies on the manifold. To get to the bottom bolts is a prick now! Not impossible, but just a little harder. Nzeder, you should have about the same room as me in front of the trumpets with your setup. I took a pic so you can compare when you are at that stage. Just trying to think of the throttle linkage setup now. Need to complete the cooling system plumbing, fuel, and wiring then exhaust and something to protect the sump underneath. It hangs uncomfortably low to the ground. Lower than the cross member!

Hehehe...sorry Lurch! I'm still amazed I just found that out recently! I'll give full credit to you....

lol... A 260C is an old Datsun sedan with a L series 6 cylinder. Look similar to an old Toyota Crown. they came out with a single Hitachi carby. You could actually use the whole setup if your flat tops decide to throw in the towel. This idea is just so you could still drive the car around minus any performance.....

Whenever you change to discs at the rear, you have to change the master or remove the valve from the rear circuit of the standard 240/260 master cylinder. I've been using a 280ZX 15/16 cylinder with no problem at all, even with those big Porsche calipers. I can lock the front wheels too easily....

I'd put a voltmeter across the battery while you are cranking and see the volts. If its below 10, the battery is flat or farked. Batteries can do magical things when they are about to fail...

Maybe a cheap alternative for the time being is a single carb manifold from a 260C or similar with a downdraught Weber? You may need an adaptor or something (never done a conversion like that but doesnt look too hard). Then you can save your pennies for the ultimate setup you are after. Rather than spend good $$$ on boat anchors! Just my 2 boat anchors worth....

A good friend of mine (ex fitter) told me the best fluid for releasing frozen studs of all things is brake fluid! He recently removed 2 broken exhaust flange studs for me using good ol dot 4. He swears by it.

Hey, this is the only pic I took with my phone, the rest to come later when I pull them off the digital cam....

Problem solved! Just needed some compressed air through the rocker cover breathers and the oil filter removed while cranking the engine and 5 seconds later, presto! oil pumping out of the centre of the oil filter mount. Re-fitted the filter, cranked the engine some more and oil pressure started to register. I guess after sitting in the wreckers yard for so long the oil disappeared from the pump and these pumps aren't self priming! Thanks for the suggestion anyways..

Hey Nzeder, I don't think you will have a space issue, your manifold is alot thinner than mine. I have plenty of clearance with my setup but I have shorter trumpets. So the extra length in the trumpets is cancelled by the short length inlet manifold. Oh, good news with my oil pressure problem! Thanks to Steve Newing, a quick "blow" with a air compressor through the rocker cover vents with the oil filter removed while it was cranking, oil came gushing out of the oil filter opnening! And I mean alot of oil! Re-fiitted the filter, 10 seconds of turning over, welcome oil pressure gauge needle movement!! Now the wiring begins........

One great option to think about is the best of both worlds is an ITB setup! The smoothness of EFI and the "music" from the 6 trumpets. Only con is the cost. But once you have it all, there is nothing more to spend. Each throttle body costs around the $400 mark, then you need injectors, fuel rail etc. If you car is setup already for EFI, you don't have to modify your fuel tank! Another saving!