Zedman240®

With the thread size for the rod ends in the manifold, not sure if the Lynx and the Redline are the same, but for the Redline, they are 5/16 UNF. You will have to find some longer ones to lift the rod that runs the length of the manifold and like many triple installs I have done, cut and shorten the rod from the firewall to the long rod with the "U" shape and split pin. When that's done, you will have to re-do all the arms and rods that operate the carbies and adjust them again.

I may need one Jason, when I do restore everything back to stock, I think my switch has perished..it cuts out the starter if you turn they key too far. When I did this mod, I made sure that all the stock wiring stayed intact. To reverse it, it is a simple job of just unplugging the starter loom and connecting it back to the factory switch.

If he added "while I did a U-turn in front oncomming traffic" that would be true...

You can use the 240 dizzy on the L28 without any issues. To find out about the leads, first you have to get the engine to cylinder #1 at TDC. Get a socket on the crankshaft bolt and rotate the engine clockwise (when facing the front of it) untill the cam lobes for number 1 are like bunny ears; like a "V" when viewed from the top through the oil filler cap. Look at your rotor button and that should be number 1. Then the order will be anticlockwise 5, 3, 6, 2, 4. When it starts, grab a timing light and finely adjust. Also, the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley should line up with the marker on the timing cover!

I'd be interested in one...and I can pickup as well!

At this time tried a search for that same one as I have...none listed. Sellers name is "i889900". I'll keep an eye out and as soon as I see them again, I'll post it up here...If you do a search for "LCD Voltmeter" some nice LCD ones come up. I will buy some of those when I have some funds in my Paypal account. Usually I make donations to the forum when my Paypal account has anything in it.

If you have a 240Z with just an ammeter, a display of volts would be nice to tell you how good the alternator is. You know how healthy it is by the volts. Anything under 13.8 or so and you should start having a good look at it. Also, anything above 15 volts should get you panicking! I remember a while back wanting to fit a digital voltmeter into the zed and after some searching, cheapest one I came across was from Jaycar at about $65 (in kit form). On one of my searches through epray, did a search for "LED Voltmeter" and I found some nice blue coloured LED 2 wire voltmeters for only $15. After another search, found some LCD ones for about $10 from Honkers. I bought one, installed it and took a pic at night of mine, it didn't turn out the best but it gives you a good idea. It really needs a small jiffy box and a front tinted lens to look real nice. Or even install it in a gauge and mount it. Anyway, just in case anyone was thinking of where to get one...

It's come and gone, and I was the only zed there! Lot's of real nice classics though..some for sale! Plenty of old Melbourne drag cars from the late eighties-nineties which was good to see once again. It was all indoors thankfully and had a couple of visitors. Good to see you KatoKid!

Did you still have the original 240Z shafts? If so, time to upgrade to 260Z items.

Recently forum member Sirpent spotted a red 260 with similar wheels on the back of a car transporter....could that zed be yours? Pic was taken sometime ago..

Its just a large capacity 2 pole two throw toggle switch. Should be able to handle around 20-30 amps. You can also get the missile cover for it for an emergency shut off if needed (not for that ricer look; it actually HAS a function instead of switching on the underbody lights). When I can, Ill post a pic to show more details. The push button must also be a heavy duty switch as well, Hella sell them for that function. I can find part numbers if that will help.

I'm planning on going there as Shannons is only 4 mins away from me. I'm curious what it will go for. If bids are low, I'll stick my hand up! hahahaha.. Auction is in March I believe.

Sulio, don't have to part with your zee....baby bonu$!!! Think it's about 6K? huh? Cmon....

Finger licking good...it's what mine needs!! Ha

Its not really loud at all! If you are in Melbourne, you are more than welcome to have a listen..

I think with the return there is no way the fuel pump can "force" the fuel into the bowl. Say if you still had the mechanical pump, and revving on the freeway at 3000 rpm for hours, any excess fuel will return to the tank. I'd run one..and the restrictor is on the original metal fuel rail where the return hose connects at the front of the motor.

I've always used genuine Nissan thermostats without any issues. I recently got to the bottom of my cooling issues. Was the radiator at fault but after a very thorough strip and cleanout, it's all good. Are there any kinked hoses or factory hoses blocked off in a strange way?

That is my worst nightmare...as long as you are ok. Things like that make me think twice about driving my zed around on full reg...

Something I remembered hearing this, one of the best anti-theft systems I've had (well doesn't stop a tilt tray taking your zee) was a Wolf 3D ECU that had a pin code to disable. You would have to enter a pin code to be able to start the engine. Without that, it was impossible to start. There was no way to "hotwire" etc..The engine would just crank over with no fuel or ignition. Shame the latest one doesn't have it.

Welcome Max...I've been wondering when you were going to start the write up! The ultimate is always to cut it out but that area is a little tricky.

Makes me wish I had a little auto runabout to trade with you...had one few years back; 96 model Corolla seca with only 60K on it...drove like new! Oh well..have a magna wagon manual though

We all love the 280ZX (esp 2 seaters!!) Hahaha

You have to ask the question how did they know it was there? It's not as if it was on the street. It's worthwhile taking them to the middle of nowhere, tie them up and leave em for dead!

Did you mean a Fuel/Voltmeter gauge? 240Z came with the amp and 260's came with the Volt meter..Unless it's a weird early 2460Z?

I can help too.. depends on your location...