Zedman240®

Welcome...nice series 2 280! I'm sure after some minor work it will be a great example of a 280ZX.

It's not bad...would've been better if the outline of the R34 was alot more detailed... I do love their "Ford repair Kit" shirt... a grenade! hahaha

A quick check with a test light, and while connected switch the igntion on and off will confirm if it has power with the ignition switch. A test light is a usefull tool needed to connect a stereo...check also for permanent 12V too. $4 from any auto place.

Sounds like a torn or damaged O ring(s). Sometimes it is cheaper and easier to just replace the whole jack. Mine broke a spring that keeps tension on the foot pump and handle...without that spring, the handle does squat. Cable tie to the rescue and it sort of works...once the rest of it dies its on the nature strip.

Found one, if you need two, I'll have to do more searching in the "missile testing shed". I'm in Moorabbin or I can post it...let me know.

If you are chasing around 260 Hp at the wheels with a stroker, be prepared to spend mega dollars on it... An NDSOC member with a 3.1 liter, mild headwork, triple Weber 45's and 74' cam is getting approx 230 at the wheels. To get around 260, you may need 50mm Webers (or EFI throttle bodies) and a 76' cam and some serious head work. If it's just for the street, be prepared for it to behave like a pig! My last L28 with EFI and 74' cam managed approx 205hp at the wheels which was plenty. Good enough for the sprints and plenty for the street. If this engine will never see the track, you may be better off spending the money on suspension brakes etc..

Yep Sulio, Not many people know of that or seen that car...I have some pics when he first brought it to Oz, it was in a sad state to say the least.... Some farm animal was sleeping on the roof and rust was in lots of places...the trick of importing a zed from the US is to bring one without the rust! Excuse the poor quality of the pics..back then I had a .36 Megapixel camera..

I'm sure I have a couple floating about...when I get home from work I'll check.

I've done a dash conversion on a US 240Z (and other odds and ends) to convert to RHD and there are a few more differences. Wipers are on the other side and it's not as simple as swapping a wiper motor and arms; chassis underneath has to be modified. Interior bonnet release has to be moved among other things. A new dashboard and loom will have to be sourced. To me, it's not worth it...I'd leave it left hand drive and enjoy! If you find a real clean 240 in the US, that's original as for a great price, might be worthwhile importing it and leaving it LHD. If I ever go there that's one thing I'll be on the hunt for...

If the Honda wiper motor conversion has been done without a 5 pin relay, the wipers don't park. If you need the details, I have a small txt file if you need it. I converted my 240Z to the Honda Civic wiper motor. If you do a search, you should be able to find the thread.

As far as I know, all L28 cylinder heads (N42/P90/A) have the notches for the injectors.

Good progress there!...Just missing the "tadaaaa" at the end..

Another Welcome! Visiting Japan is on the to do list....

Thanks Glen for holding it but Ash needs the gearbox more than what I do...he'll give you a call.

PM'ed you... re: pedals and box...

Dammit...I was up there this last weekend....oh well.

Might be a good idea to update your locality in your details so we all know how "local" you need these parts to be...

Have you removed/unplugged the original regulator that's mounted on the side of the engine bay? You can't have two regulators running together. Here are some instructions on how to install a 280ZX alternator in a zed with an external reg: Converting to an internal regulator alternator Question: I would like to know if anyone has converted from the external regulated alternator to an internal. What wiring did you change? Answer: First a little background: The 60 amp internal regulator alternator was used on the '78 280Z and then the non-turbo 280ZX. I have also seen it on the '78-'85 810/Maxima and the '81-'85 720 pickup trucks. It is marked "LR160" on the case. There was also a 70 amp version (marked LR170) that was used on the 280ZX turbo's. [Note: It looks like the '84-'86 non-turbo 300ZX 70 amp alternator could be used as well, but the wiring connectors are different, so get (i.e., cut it off) the corresponding engine harness connectors as well if you get one of these alternators. I'll write this up this conversion later.] Because I don't like to give instructions without some explanation of what you are doing (it makes troubleshooting easier), I will start by describing the internally regulated alternator's electrical connections: 1. An "L" connection which goes to a "switched" 12V supply. By this I mean a 12V source that is active only when the ignition switch is in the ON position. I use the mnemonic "L" for "lamp", the alternator warning lamp (if used) is in series with this connection. This terminal also supplies the "excitation" current to the alternator field winding at engine turn on, allowing the alternator to begin producing voltage as the engine is ramping up to idle speed. Once the alternator rotor is turning fast enough, it generates it's own supply for the field winding and the current in the "L" connection stops flowing. The warning lamp (if used) goes out. 2. An "S" connection which goes as close to the positive terminal of the battery as physically possible. The "S" connection "senses" the battery voltage and this is the voltage that the regulator is tying to control. This connection has a high impedance, so it only draws only micro amps from the battery, so it can be left connected without fear of battery discharging. The "L" and "S" connections are in the plug connector on the rear of the alternator that looks like the capital letter "T". The top of the "T" is the "S", and the other part of the "T" is the "L". Or in crude ASCII art: "S" ............... : ------- : :.... | ....: : | : : | : "L" :.....: 3. An "A" terminal, which is the output of the alternator, which also is connected to the positive terminal of the battery. This connector carries the charging current. Because of the high currents this wire must carry, it is a low gauge wire, which means it has a large cross sectional area. For safety reasons, a fusible link should be in series with this connector. The "A" terminal is the insulated threaded stud on the rear of the alternator. Of course, someone may ask: "Why do you need two separate (the "S" and the "A") connections between the battery and alternator?". It is because of the fact that even large wires have some resistance, and therefore there will be a voltage drop between the alternator and the battery when the battery is being charged. If the regulator sensed the alternator output (which is higher in voltage) and not the battery terminal, the result would be undercharging of the battery. Now there are alternators which work this way, but they need a fairly large diameter charging wire to reduce the voltage drop. The separate "S" connection is a much better method of regulation. 4. There is a "P" terminal on the 280ZX turbo alternator (but have also seen it on a few of the non-turbo 280ZX alternators). There is not a corresponding connector on the engine harness to mate with the "P" terminal, even on the turbo 280ZX's. So, the "P" terminal is not used/needed. 5. Finally, there is a ground connection on the alternator, although the case is a pretty good ground connection to the engine block. Now, the following procedure only applies to the 240Z. The 260Z has electrical connections between the regulator and the interlock module and the electric fuel pump, so it's more difficult to convert to an internally regulated alternator, but I have a procedure for it as well. Please email me directly if anyone is interested. I have not looked into converting a 280Z, but I would think that it would be possible as well. 1. Disconnect the battery. 2. Unplug the external regulator and note the color code of the wires that are on the regulator connector of the engine wiring harness. You will be connecting some of these wires together, so get another plug from a junked regulator or cut the one off your old regulator. Now the wire colors I will be referring to are on the regulator connector of the engine wiring harness. This is because although the regulator wire colors match the engine harness with the stock regulator, I've noticed that some aftermarket regulators have a different wire color code. 3. Connect the white wire to the yellow wire. This connects the battery to the "S" input. 4. Connect the black with a white stripe wire to the white with black stripe wire. This connects the "L" terminal to a switched 12V. 5. Disconnect and unbolt your old alternator. Bolt up the new alternator. Depending on what particular internally regulated alternator you use (I've seen different pulley sizes), you might need a different length belt. 6. At the alternator, connect the white with red stripe wire of the engine wiring harness to the threaded stud (the "A" terminal) on the alternator. This connection provides the charging current for the battery. Connect the black ground wire to the alternator. Don't forget to include any bypass, or filter capacitor. Plug the two-pin "T" connector into the alternator. 7. Re-connect the battery and start the engine. With a good digital voltmeter measure the voltage directly across the battery terminals. This is the charging voltage. It should be 14.7V +/- 0.3V, but this voltage is a function of the ambient temperature and the state of charge of the battery. If the voltage reading is not correct, then re-check your wiring. More than 15.0V indicates that the "S" connection may not be connected correctly. SPECIAL NOTE: I had this problem and thought I'd share the solution. Many thanks to Ken Osman and Steve Golik who provided the solution: When an internally regulated alternator is put into an early Z and the external regulator is removed, you often have the problem that the car will not shut off when the key is turned off. You have to put a diode in series on the wire that goes to the "L" terminal on the back of the alternator. The "L" terminal is the bottom contact on the "T" shaped connector. You have to connect the cathode of the diode (identified by a stripe on that end of the diode) to the "L" terminal and the anode (other end of the diode) to the wire that previously went to the "L" terminal. In my case (71 240Z) this was a white with black stripe wire. This prevents the "L" terminal current from feeding back into the ignition circuit when the key is turned off. The diode I used was a 1N5402, other people have used a 1N5400 or a 1N5062. Easy fix to a vexing problem. Side note: when I fixed this I connected the Yellow wire in the harness which leads to the alt to the "S" terminal (top of the "T" connector) on the alt - PO had spliced white/black wire into both the "L" and "S" terminals - my under hood light started working. WHOOOHOOOO! Damian 71 L28 now shuts off with the key!

If anyone needs something small(ish) brought from either way....just let me know. Leaving early tomorrow morning and staying I think near Liverpool till the 1-2nd of January. Hoping to catch the fireworks among other things..Hope you all have a great new year...

After having an RB25DE in my zed, stock except for the EFI system and throttle bodies, power was at 120KW at the wheels. Biggest limiting factor in that motor was the camshafts. A rear sump now would be difficult to find but the easiest way I think would be to source a sump from a GQ model Patrol (and pickup) and modify that. It's already a rear sump but wayyy to deep. Clears the ground by approx 2" installed. If I was to go the RB way again, I'd go for the turbo. Best power/$ improvement over stock L series. A pair of cams for a NA RB, you are looking at around $1000 compared to an L series one at about $300. The RB will cost more in the end with around the same amount of HP. As Nzeder explained, a set of headers for a RB in Australia, is very hard to come by. I've done the searching! Custom made one's would be the easiest or a trip to Japan for some Fujitsubo headers at $2000.. You could always make a triple Weber manifold and source some carbies and install them but you will have to find an ignition system that can work without a distributor; RB engines have the CAS sensor on the front. MSD I think make something that will work but from memory that alone is approx $500. I've gone back to the L series because a) Its the orginal motor b) I miss the sound of a healthy angry L! Whichever way you go, it will cost.

Wax, did you mean coilovers for a 280Z or 280ZX? If its for a 280Z, yes they are the same. 280zx on the other hand are completely different; spings, strut tube etc..

Looking real good there...will look great when your done.

With my current zed, I think I may have covered only around 1200 miles? Most of that to and from sprints or Auszcar drive days! Seriously thinking about full reg for the zed!

I'd love to import a LHD 240 from the US. I've yet to see one around Melbourne. There was a 240Z for sale on Hybridz but fully tubbed for about $5000. To bring one here costs around $3000.

They sure look like they'll fit but I think there's only one way to find out... Keep an eye out for the negative feedback that will follow..