Scoota G

Does anyone have a generator just in case the power goes out? It might even be a good idea as we could get the work lights out and have a good look at the below average job i have done on my engine bay

The fuel pump i have is one of those Facet pumps which run between 2-4 psi. Should suit the application well. I do have the mechanical one still hanging around but it need a kit through it. On another subject i just spied a 280zx with targas in main rd Ballarat, it has no plates and is sitting next to an old val which has a 4 sale sign on it. WOOooooOOOooo

Well thats the funny thing (not clown funny more like darwin award funny) stamped on the side is DHLA40 but there is no letter on two of them. But one has G stamped on it. I can only see 1 difference between the carbs.

Right, I finally got all the gear together for the triple Dellorto setup on my 75 2 seater. 1 X JDM Manifold with linkages 3 X 40mm Dellorto's (ex alfa running 145 main jets) 6 X 2.5" ram tubes 3 X soft mounts 1 How to power tune Weber / Dellorto book 1 Carb Sychronizer Also i have some air cleaners on the way too. Looking forward to this moment for a lot of years but i have a question......is it nessacary to run a return line to the tank? Any advice would be welcome apart from the standard sell them to me instead reply . Cheers Mark K

If the oil is the colour that you mention then that is the Oil mixing with Water. Best thing to do is to get a compression tester and check which cylinder ( i'm thinkin between cylinder 5 and 6 ) is running a lower compression. I blew a head gasket in Melbourne on a 40 Degree day and the car made it back to Ballarat 110 kays no problem. To crack test a cylinder head costs about $80 where i live.

Dey Rrrrrrr Purrrtty

Or you can check out my ride http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?pos=-1988 Which are the same rims

True Dat, Welcome Mr Rich

I had a similar problem with my switch got another one and it did the same thing. So i pulled one apart but you have to be cafeful when you do this as there are three springs inside as well as two plates and three bearings ( from memory ) and you need to make sure you put them back in sequence. Video of the operation can help if you get lost. When you are sure you are right with the sequence clean the brass plates rub with 400 wet and dry used wet to clean up any dags and then polish them. Also check if the plates are bent. There are also a number of contacts on the back of the ignition switch which need to be cleaned as well. Then the whole switch can do with a smear of light grease, the hard part is getting it back togeather properly. You can see the little clips that hold it togeather, be cafeful with these as they can break easy. The problem is that contacts on the back are touching when they should not be causing some of the electrics to activate.

Yep that is correct i still have the rebuilt one. I took it out cause i like my car audio. I replaced with the 100amp one.

I have exactly the same one (Hitachi) on my garage bench. Had it rebuilt in Ballarat from a place that has now moved. Can see if i can chase them up if you like? They may be able to get stuff.

Yes the fume problem. I noticed a couple of weeks ago that the passenger side of the Car was getting Dirtier than the drivers side. It's not dirt it is just the deposits from the Exhaust traveling back up the car, around the wheels (as they turn Anti-clockwise on that side Facing out and generate a fair bit of wind speed) and then into the car via the passenger door. Don't always look for the obvious answer to this problem. I have a smoke machine from my acting days in Fringe Festivals that i will bring to the next Club Meeting. It's a great way to test you car for leaks and it looks really cool too.

I'm not speaking for everyone but i think if you hook into a few local guys or girls with a Z on this site, a person who was looking at a BIG purchase such as wheels might be able to get some help. Then through this site maybe you can find someone who would be willing to let a "pre" wheel buyer try their similar rims on and save them making a mistake. My rims where what inspired me late last year and here i am 5 Grand later and still LOVING every minute of my rebuild. Only because of 3 things. 1. My love 4 all Z cars. 2. It was my choice to do this since i was 15 3. The inspiration that i Have borrowed from the people who make this website. I made the wheel choice before i found this website.

Local libraries tend to carry these manuals that you can look at but not borrow so i would probably compare the two. I often go to the local library and sift through their manuals. Not everyone's cup o' tea but handy when i get a client with an unfamiliar car.

How would the vacuum for the brakes be controlled? Would it be a compressor or just an old Electrolux mounted under the Bonnet.

I think the Motto here is Don't be afraid to Yell out if you have ideas or info. Seriously yell as loud as you can

If i had hair that would almost describe me now

ROFL Bon Voyage

This is the same as the one i bought it is listed as universal. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NEW-CHROME-100-AMP-1-WIRE-UNIVERSAL-ALTERNATOR_W0QQitemZ140228110366QQihZ004QQcategoryZ43807QQcmdZViewItem Just type in alternator into Ebay and she is there. Also if you do an expanded view of My Motor you can see the Modification clearly, took only a couple of hours to do.

The pulley is slightly different but no probs running it just required a smaller fan belt (length). I'll try to find a similar one on Ebay (where i bought it from) and post up the link.

This was my fix. http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=10762&pos=4 I had a reco alternator in mine (that i still Have) but it was only 35 Amps so i got one off Ebay and did a slight modification to the alternator bracket as in drilling the hole right through the mount and a bit of grinding. Also i had a EA Falcon (early) one on as before which required very little Mods and was pushing 85 Amps. The one in the picture is 100 Amps and cost $210 Delivered.