Scoota G

I had the same problem and was told to replace the rack ends by a "Specalist". I rang around and couldn't get these parts anywhere but nissan. So i had a look at it myself and it was just the rack needed adjusting...look for a big nut on the rack right where the steering column meets. Undo this nut and then you will be able to move the retainer adjusting screw. It may take a few adjustments to get it right by giving the steering wheel a little wiggle inbetween adjustments to get the retainer (the part that is probably causin the knock) to seat properly. Then lock it back up and take it for at test drive. Be careful not to overtighten it, you will feel it if you do. By the way new rack ends from Nissan are around the $280 mark a piece and you can get tie rod ends on Ebay. Hope this helps if not PM me and we can talk on the phone might be easier with a verbal walkthrough.

Not to steal the thread but how did those 52 idle jets work out for you warrenz? I had a C U Next Tuesday of a time starting my ride until i changed the idle jetsbut now just as wazza says just start and massage.

Couple o pics ere

I got really pissed and vomited but other than that it all went swell

I have a genuine 260Z service manual printed 1976 and i can see a "passing relay" in the wiring diagram. The diagram, which is a five page centrefold type deal, list The Headlights as: RH Red.White Red.Brown. and Red. LH Red.White Red.Brown. and Red.Yellow The R.W. and R.B. (the 2 commons) both join into the relay. Can you flick high beam on? If not that should be your relay which is inside right next to the fuse block and the horn relay. By the Diagram anyway.

Ouch'o I actually had this happen in one of my Datsun's years ago. It was the Accelerator linkage catching on a screw. If i were you i would try to recreate the incident with the engine switched off of course... get a freind to press the accelerator while you inspect it from the outside and also check under the dash for possible snags. Other than that it could be some gunk built up around the throttle shafts, disassembling and cleaning them might be a wise move too. Then again as we know metal shrinks when it's cold so it might just be as simple as warmin her up some more. Hope this helps.

They use Mikunis on Harley Davidsons and jet skis so might need a part number to surf more accuretly. Or try this http://www.rmcarburetors.net/ Found this while surfing too www.formulagti.com/Technical%20Resources/Jetting%20and%20Tuning%20Weber%20Sidraft%20carbs.pdf I must mention that i have no experience with these carbs http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=19030 Found a few diagrams here

Dellorto Update. I mentioned in another thread that i was having some issues with a flat spot. This occured between 2000rpm and 3000rpm and was making the car difficult to drive. I assumed (wrongly) that i was getting to much petrol higher in the rev range so i changed the Main Jets from 145 to 130. This improved the flat spot a tiny bit but now the carbs backfired and fuel economy was still around the same, so i ordered a set of 46 Idle jets taking them down from 52's. These arrived the other day and after fitting them i found that the idle was not spluttering as much and it was a lot easier to tune. As the Des Hammill book says "if you have to turn the idle screws in to less than 2.5 turns then the idle jets are too big and if you have to turn them out any more than 5.5 turns than they are too small". The big improvment was in the fuel economy but the backfiring issue still remained. So i then changed the Main Jets back to the 145's and hey presto, problem solved with no noticable change in fuel consumption. I have noticed that if the car backfires at the carbs the Mixture is too lean and if it pops through the exhaust the mixture is too rich. It still has the smallest of flat spots but i feel confident that i can tune it out with mixture adjustment. Tuning them in this way has required me to use the choke on start up as before i didn't need to as it already had a rich enough mixture to start from cold but when she warmed up it was miles too Rich. For a novice with carbs it can be frustrating to hear people cruising through tuning these setups where others (like me) seem to have a battle from day 1 but then again i don't know how many people are running a similar setup to mine as in Exhaust, Cylinder head, Compression Ignition and Transmission as all these can require a individual tuning method (as in parts). I have only really written down my experiences in the hope that it may help someone who is having issues but in the end the battle was worth it and very rewarding.

Just watchin Discovery real time, they are doing a conversion on a red Camaro to electric, there is Zed's in the background at the Respray shop. Oooooo

Like this one. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ Just scroll down a third and you'll see what you are looking for.

Like these one's? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Datsun-240z-260z-Choke-Knob-Screw-NOS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46102QQihZ012QQitemZ220256019777QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Howdy, This is the only place that i have found that has the bit you are looking for. http://www.sportsclassic.com.au/body_shells.htm Beware they are not cheap. Cheers

Howdy, I seen a chrome nudge bar for a 280ZX in Ballarat for $30 from a guy who is there every week (sunday market). Dunno if anyone is looking for one but i just thought i'd post it up.

Try these models 260C 280C 240K Not sure about the 280ZX one's but take in your pedal and compare if you can.

K here is a long shot. Does your car have an expansion tank. Mine didn't have one when i bought it and the fuel tank is completely sealed. It is a problem i need to address but just every so often the pressure in the tank needs to be released. Just check when you open the gas tank if it draws air in or blows it out. If i go on a long drive sometimes it happens but more often in the winter. Just one more question where are you located. Maybe you can get a local member to drop around a take a Squizz at it.

Now THAT'S a project car.

Hi there, I need a tappet cover. Are you willing to post it to Victoria? Mark.

woooo tanks again sulio

Just tried it an i cant seem to insert images pwease elp.

Just thought i would let everyone know that there is a Early model 300ZX V6 up here in Ballarat for $2500 a private seller with Black duco and a really straight body but has some strange camo trim inside. I got a couple of Pics too.

I'm feelin it is a damaged fuel pump or a blocked fuel filter

Connect a good plug to the leads when you test them and test the spark when it's darker. Also the pump jets have an O Ring around them so they are a bit scary to take out the first time and you need a fair amount of pressure to get them out. They also only go in one way so don't try to twist them to extract them. My pump jets were ok and then for no reason they just blocked up but it sounds like you have done everything else right so far.

Gee i was close with the name .........Not

Hey dude, Just a few questions that might help with diagnosis. Were the carbs off the car for a period of time? Did you remove anything else? Is there spark going to the plugs? Have you tried swapping plugs around? If you seperate the carbs from the manifold and disconnect the accelerator linkage and just give it a few pumps to see if the pump jets are squirting. I think dave is right about the blocked jets as fuel can crystalize depending on conditions.

Toecutter aka Sulio knows of just such a person who will do these carpets in Melbourne. I belive he said Alibaba and no it's not a joke. Send him a message an he should be able to point you in the right direction. Allāhu Akbar