My tacho work exactly the same as it did before i put in the Electronic ignition but even before it did play up and didn't show the right revs. it still does it sometimes.
Went for a surf on the Vic:PRoads website Ewwww
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/CC48FC10-4D57-4F04-82E1-3BD72EF88340/0/VSI8.pdf
That's the link.
Section 8 ( i apologize to the mentally challenged ) says no wider than 25mm.
So i think i'm in a large group of people who are up S#%t Creek without a paddle
I bought a 2+2 door off Ebay to try and see if the the window regulators are interchangeable. Apon lining them up (see photo) they appear to have the same dimensions and they are. The obvious difference is the attachments to the guides.
The guides on the 2+2 are thicker (the guides are the nylon bushes) and they are also spring loaded and have a plastic washer fitted as well. The 2 seater has the thinner guides and a larger diameter plastic washer. Also the regulator spring is on opposite sides. The thicker guides meant that they will not fit inside the guide channels so i thought that there are two ways to make this work. Trim the guides or fit the 2 seater guides to the 2+2. I chose the latter.
To remove the guides from the 2+2 regulator is not a difficult process just grab a 3/4 socket, fit it over the guide and then on a soild surface just punch them through. But with the 2 seater version you can damage the washers so i chose to cut them out. Then with a vice i compressed the pins that i just punched out of the 2 seater version and fitted them to the 2+2 model with a slight tap and a reasonably sharp cold chisel.
Done. Then to fit it back to the vehicle and i'm really glad this one worked because otherwise Dalee might have found me in his garage at 2:30 in the morning
I tried taking the fuel sender out and then bending it to resolve the issue but it had zero effect. I think that the best idea would require the donation of a fuel tank and then cut it in half to try to figure out once and for all this problem.
If you take the fuel sender out and move it by hand you can see that it is clearly capable of moving the gauge to a full tank but something prevents it. perhaps the length of the rod that holds the float could be shortened or maybe it hits on a baffle in the tank.
All suggestive but.
You guys might want to fill in your location b4 you make lurch angry again. But seriously it will help as postage for bits like this can be a killer.
In regards to your question i used to work for Southern Vehicle Enhancements in Vic, Ballarat and he had a large range of older moulds and even did me a front spoiler for my 260Z but i never fitted it. If you need his number i can get that for you'se no probs.
http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=131&pos=28
Yea i mentioned fuel economy in a thread just recently. I'm getting 15 Litres per 100 klms on a city cycle with Triples Dellortos and an Auto . Fuel tank capacity in the Haynes manual is listed as 60 litres.
I worked for 8 months at SVE in Ballarat (southern vechile enhancements) Making a mould is pretty straight forward but takes a fair bit of time but once it's done Hey Presto you can wack them out at a great speed. One thing to do is to make a split mould so it's cheaper to mail too. I sold a front spoiler on Ebay and had to send it to WA so the guy said " Cut it in Half " Ouch.
Sulio mentioned a fella in Melbourne who makes thicker lash pads. It's in a thread under engines on page 2 that i started called Thicker Lash Pads. When i rebuilt my L26 i shopped around. Bursons had the best price on anything other than the valve regrind kit which i got from Autopro. The rings i bought off Evilbay from a guy in the States called enginesellinman for $10 for a new set of hastings rings.
Hope that helps.
Here's an ebay search i did just recently
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissan-280Z-280ZX-New-Piston-Rings-4394-STD_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2em63Q2el1177QQhashZitem310089973637QQitemZ310089973637
That's great news..If you don't mind me asking as i'm sure someone else will, How much were you charged for the whole tune an setup? Also are you running an electronic dizzy? As i know that when i changed to electronic it ironed out a lot of problems.
Running L26 with an Auto with N42 head,Triple Dellortos, Genie Headers through a 2 1/4 system electronic ignition and a thermo fan i'm getting 85 Klms for 13 litres City Cycle
Just wondering what figures other people are getting triples or not!
My 260Z is a Janurary 75 model and i had a peek on evilbay at two different types. The pre 75 one has the a more curved shape towards the A arm mounts and the later one has a square type shape??? Here's the thing, mine seems to be the earlier one even though it's a 75. I know that manafacturing can pass on the parts from the previous year until stock runs out but i was wondering if anyone knows the difference?
In the July August 1993 Street machine magazine there is an article featuring a 240Z, fitted with a 350 chev that the owner narrowed the rear track by 2 inches. It mentions shortening the halfshafts and cutting the a arms.
The rims are 9.5"simmons with 245's
So i suspect thats an end to speeding up the cruise videos and showing them to the missus then?
You fiend, you really had me worried then. Pictures of your car (among other things) are what inspired me to get my Z up an mobile.
My car lives outside at the moment and starting it up in the morning has meant a little condensation in the motor and i didn't have a PCV valve fitted because of the triples.
I must admit that it was entertaining watching the panicked look on peoples faces as i pulled up at the lights with the Volcano Effect from under the bonnet.
So i drilled into one of the T Pieces that runs the brake booster vacuum and tapped it out to suit an adaptor to fit the PCV valve. I heard it mentioned in a thread a while ago and thought i would pass on the info.