V8Datto

Rear swaybar mount

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Well I've moved house and have no room to work on the car ATM, Well heaps of room but no shed. Looked at an RB26 a while back, parts alone was worth it but engine could not be tested, not sure on previous history either. S30 shell is back together so a few more pic than is on here but not many

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"Little off topic" The best one I've seen was on Sydney Rd, Melbourne, while at a Christmas breakup a few years ago sitting out the front of the Pub, just past 4pm and the local Tow Truck driver pulled up and started loading car's parked in the tow away zone. Turns out they were council cars. The Council were having their breakup party at the Pub as well. Just as the Tow Truck drive finished loading the last car a gentleman from the council came out of the Pub in full protest, The Tow'ie told him where to jam it.... and drove off with their cars Sitting at the Pub, cold drink in hand watching council car's get towed... best day of work ever!

You can't use a mobile phone, the signal isn't good enough once you hide the phone under the dash or in the boot etc E-bay is your friend, something like this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/OZ-TK104-AU-GPS-GSM-Tracker-System-Car-Vehicle-Spy-Hidden-Device-60-Days-Standby-/321333664946?pt=AU_Electronics_GPS&hash=item4ad0fa9cb2 They have inbuilt aerial's for GPS, GPRS & GSM (GPRS being mobile phone reception or GSM can't remember which) and come with external extensions for both for better reception. Sim cards are another problem as most GPS trackers use the old G2 system and you will need a backwards compatible sim I have an ALDI simcard. They cost 5$ yes you heard me, only FIVE DOLLARS!!! and last a full 365 days (no monthly cost or charges, and you can recharge online to extend the time) The system works on sending sms messages to a mobile phone you chose with updates of position etc, SO..... every update cost you a sms charge. (ALDI's sim only cost 12c per sms) Now the down side, 1 Only works out doors, (If the car is parked in a shed say, it might give an update and if it does it will be wildly inaccurate. this does depend on location) 2 if you lose either GPS or Mobile signal it no longer works (underground car park, or out in the country where mobile reception is patchey) 3 Theifs carry jammers to block the mobile signal (while illegal, so is stealing your car)

Wow... everyone should watch that It makes more sense now how new tax's come in I found this years ago and could not believe it, worth a watch if your into how the money system works Thanks for the share

I say..... Hugo style tear down with the cam. "I know you want to" Wouldn't expect much change from 35k to get the shell sorted, so do as much as you can yourself I'd do it if I had the chance to buy such a low number, they all have rust some just more than others Go for it George, If it turns out anything like your last z it will be nuts.... and well worth it

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Gold!

I second that

R192? didn't know it even existed And that's some good info thanks

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I'm interested, so put me down for a set, not sure on flat or round tho

Finding info on allowed engine conversion's is next to impossible, when I'm ready I'll let the engineer answer the questions. Not interested in the L6, I want to drive the thing not work on it More pic's. Still in the trial fit and test phase Using panels off other cars is always very handy to check measurements. Just in case mines not 100%

I'm open to options, has to be very very reliable and about 350-400hp @ flywheel (power spread through rev range, I don't want 400hp at 9000rpm and nothing at 3000rpm) Standard 2400cc L6 is out because of reliability at power level Im after (And I don't own one) I own a Lexus V8 (4000cc) but It's out because It would need forced induction for the power and that makes it too big for the rules RB25det is right size, power and would still be reliable

Cars a long way from paint yet, still have to decide on an engine. The V8 idea is out the window. Probably go RB but I have to install and engineer, finish the shell decide on a color, body work, the list gos on

So...... from this stage forward Rob took on most of the work, I helped along the way with fitting, measuring, grinding, sandblasting & painting etc, while Rob took care of fabrication and welding stuff First thing to do was replace all the structural parts and then move on to the outside panels. Iner wiper area done . Front supports . Rear end frame in place and welded . The next stage was to test fit all the panels, a lot of measuring, remeasuring and then remeasure again was needed here. Having 3-4 Z shells of different years next to us was a big advantage. No guessing required . Don't ask how many times we removed and refit these rear quarters to get them right. I seriously don't remember, it seemed to take forever .

Also if anyone is wondering why I'm not doing any of the main/fiddly welding it's because I have a problem with heating up the steel too much, Under the car in the chassis was fine but on the top outside panels every weld pulls on the thin steel. I just don't have the experience with the thin metal and would end up making more work

Thanks, words of encouragement are very welcome. Rear hatch reassembly I quite enjoyed this, fairly easy and good to see it go back together. After Rob welded all the supports back into the hatch I grinded, re-sandblasted and repainted A bit of a stuff up on my part here, where the hatch skin folds over needs to be sealed so the epoxy primer was sandblasted off and por was applied Hold together and slowly fold over the seam Center will stay with the screws until it can be checked on the car, then Rob can do the final welds

In a short amount of time I realized I was missing the full length L&R drip rails, Then I realized I hadn't see them since I removed them from the Z. A quick search and we found them hiding in the back of Robs shop full of holes. Plenty of rust in this area, Rob made up all the new sections I then sandblasted and painted ready to go

All the parts & panels were sand blasted/painted & ready to go back on, Time to start the reassembly. Using screws I started reassembling everything into place before welding to make sure it all went back correctly .

Yes the panel/rust repair work is 99% complete, these photos are from last year some time.