PeterAllen

Nice one Gary. Couldn’t you get an Unregistered Vehicle Permit and take it for a test drive? I got three or four no trouble at all.

Very, very saddened to hear this news. I was a Eastern Creek in 2013 when Alex had the first drive of his newly acquired Historic Formula Vee. We shared stories of our travels to Pebble Beach and Laguna Seca. Unfortunately we had lost contact in recent years. He was well qualified and worked as an Economist and had a great interest in historic racing. My sincerest condolences to his wife Rachel and family. RIP 'Sir Jack'.

A pity you can't use the grid as per the Bolwells at Philip Island.

So if I take a week off work, drive from Qld and pay for accommodation, only to discover I'm the 51st oldest Z then I'm told to "sod off". Please explain?

https://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/about/news-events/news/ministerial/2019/191002-historic-and-classic-cars-log-book-to-stay.html

Gordon. This may be an issue long resolved by newer alternative options but at the time it was a PITA. Bleeding the t56 clutch was hard enough in a Holden but near impossible in an S30. The solution was to: Remove the long bleed nipple and replace with a short piece of tubing and a long flexible line - available from Mal Woods (Qld). https://postimg.cc/YGLKnsgG https://postimg.cc/rzq7tsZR Route the line up the firewall. https://postimg.cc/646Ssb4f https://postimg.cc/2b7JKNy5 Note: Do not let the line dangle unattached while you run the motor... D'oh!

Likewise, I met up with Mick in Tassie; https://postimg.cc/XpBW5J83 We swapped details as we did our installs about the same time - it just took me an extra 8 years to get mine registered! I've sent you a PM about matching the mounts and the extractors but it looks like you have that covered. Lots of room until you start bolting things on: https://postimg.cc/k6Gzd1Y9

Not sure if you need to have reversing lights but you have the correct 90 degree switch on that box, otherwise you would be taking a hammer to the transmission tunnel. So that leaves just 999 issue to resolve!

And throw in a GM diff while you're at it - cheap as chip and heaps of ratios

I just did it so I'd have castor adjustment. Cost bugger-all and I think they're prettier than the rose-jointed after-market adjustable rod.

The fronts are 6" with zero off-set. I've crudely checked the bumpsteer (resting a sheet of wood on the floor with the top edge leaning against the tyre at wheel centre). There in bugger all change through 30mm of bump but there is however, about 3 degrees toe out through 30mm of droop. Assuming the raised centre portion of the lane is not as steep as the outer raised areas, I'm thinking that as I attempt to steer out of the ruts the outer wheel experiences bump and side resistance from the raised portion of the road rutting, the other wheel is experiencing droop and toe-out - thus both want to steer the car away from the intended direction, i.e. out of the rut. Once at the top of the raised portion of the road surface the suspension levels and the resistance quickly disappears. Too much thinking???

Okay folks, I finally got motivated to install the XD tension rods and although that has increased the castor, albeit back to standard, the steering feels as though it has actually lightened - Good news but somewhat contrary to theory! Full of confidence I took it for a drive from Helensburg to Waterfall on the old Princes Hwy. The road has some serious rutting and I'm disappointed to say a little bit of swerving over the ruts was a little unnerving even at 80-100 km/h. Perhaps I'm just become used to billiard table roads and this steering phenomena is normal?

A little tutorial on how I installed XD Falcon tension rods. While the spacing of the bolt holes is identical to the S30 a few mods have to be done. Firstly the holes in the Falcon rod are larger and require sleeves - believe it or not the sleeves were available off eBay. I can't recall the sizes but I'll try to look it up. Also the angle of the holes is a little different so I heated the rod at the bend (see red circle) with an Oxy torch and bent it to match the S30. As the Falcon rod is thicker the sleeves are larger so I had to drill out the S30 bushes to suit the new sleeve. The length required no shortening. The mounting holes on the chassis required a little opening with enough clearance to ensure unhindered movement. I was able to purchase slotted round nuts off eBay which came with two 'C' spanners so I fitted two each side of the bushes. As my primary aim was the establish the standard castor angle which had been reduced when I off-set the LCAs outwards, so at this stage I've done no more than set the length to the free position of the lower control arm, i.e. I've not attempted to alter the standard castor although that is now easily doable with the threaded XD rods.

Someone on that show must have an interest. On an episode a few weeks ago in the US this was noted. Not just another boring OEM either.

That's the plan. https://postimg.cc/680BVBgC

Hope to see them in the paint next April and you and Roslyn in the flesh. Planning our now annual autumn touring holiday for SE Queensland in 2020.

Some memories there. I worked on a few of those aircraft in the 60s. At the height of our involvement in Vietnam there was only one Iroquois which was fully serviced, the rest had components which were over their service hours. But I guess Gary and the rest of you long-haired, button-pushing layabouts wouldn't know how tough it was for baby-boomers!

Albany Classic, in WA every year!

Hi I am a NSW member of the Auszcar Club & a member of the Bolwell Car Club of NSW. The latter club have organised spots on pit lane @ Shannons , Eastern Creek NSW (18th, August) to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Nagari. In addition, there will be examples of the achingly, timelessly gorgeous Mk7s in the Bolwell Club allocated area. Weather permitting, I’ll have the GTO there so drop by when you tire of looking at mass produced vehicles.

The S30 doesn't have power steering - apologies if I hadn't made that clear. I might also mention that travelling on un-rutted roads there are no issues other than it will tend to follow the camber of the road moreso than a car with power steering. I'm trying to establish if this is just 60s steering or I have a real issue. Thanks

Well it's taken over two years but I've finally been able to discard all the rubbish parts of the car and can now start to rebuild. https://postimg.cc/dhMWX1Bk

My thanks to you all for your posts. Re: Bottoming out - the gearbox cross-member is low (a redesign is on the 'gunna' list) and when combined with travel luggage and a boot full of the best SA wines the clearance was exceptionally low. Work on the Bolwell and cooler temperatures mean I haven't followed through with feedback suggestions as yet. We took a run down South in the Hyundai i30 for a pub lunch and I noticed how centre-fixed the power steering was, if I just placed a finger on the spoke I felt a resistance that isn't present on the S30. Once sufficient force was applied to rotate the wheel you could sense the hydraulics coming in to play. On the S30 there is no sense of resistances and, at speed, the wheel rotates with the slightest of force applied. S30 setting: Castor = + 2 degrees Camber = - 0.3 degrees - I have noticed the top adjusters were set on the limits towards the guards, i.e. min camber. Not sure if alignment chap did that? I though I'd set them to max neg camber. Not sure how much can be gained through the range of Arizona Z adjuster plates? https://postimg.cc/874TPqsH Toe = L - 0.3mm R - 0.3mm Total = - 0.6mm SAI = 12.6 degrees

Read back a few more issues and found this one of Dunkerton. https://postimg.cc/fSXrXg92

Flicking through a few old magazines today and came across this artwork of Gregg Carr's 180B. https://postimg.cc/6TkkCh4Z

You could get the rose joint thread length off a manufacturer's data sheets I can't measure the length of the thread on the adjusting sleeve but if you assume the locking nut is 10mm then you would be safe making the thread 45mm. https://postimg.cc/N5pqVPq1