oldmates260z

I will be there and there will be a few 2000 Sports guys there too

For someone who is not good at English you write a fine story, it is a great read. I had a similar story buying mine from Albury and doing a road trip back to Sydney with my brother and then to Brisbane solo. Lucky for me I did not hit any rocks. My journal write up is no way as well done as yours (TIM260 - The Story) Also a kindred soul with a green 2+2...keep the story coming

d3c0y I run 98 yes it is hard to know as all work done before I owned the car. Really just want a good street car that pulls well, the ignition timing has helped. Just seems a waste to have it not going as well as it could. If I could get some simple head work done to fix it that would be the best option. Has had a heap done on it already. We should catch up for a run one weekend, I do a few with a couple of the Sports guys.....

Bearing in mind I have flat top pistons and N42/F54 combo what would the best way forward? (After I check cam timing....running very well now with ignition timing 8 BTDC) Thicker head gasket? Swap or rework head?

After doing a little research it appears that my flat top pistons and N42/F54 combo is not a great set up.....as noted by Toecutter in below thread. Well at least that explains my knocking under load http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/2640-flat-top-pistons/

Checked all the wiring and could not fault it. There was no power to the gauges and they work when power is applied to them (this is did not check but a auto electrician did). The power wire to the gauges also feeds the auto transmission kick down and that has power. Checked all plugs in the loom all good,,,,ah a mystery to me

d3c0y thanks for the offer and welcome to Brisbane . I live in the sticks but happy to come to yours if you would be happy to have a look. Next few weeks I am tied up but if we could catch up after that it would be great. Will PM when I have a weekend free to see if it suits. (It has a 72 degree CAM so I assume that is not stock.) road rider I think you are 100% right and I need to get the jetting correct so the SU's meet my current engine spec. ATM I prefer to extract what I can from the SU's before going to triples 600Z interesting that the advance could come on early, have not heard of that before. I will need to reach how to check and verify that. Thanks again all for advise.

Thanks very much 600Z, great info. I am likely just working on the fringes due to my lack of abilities and equipment. The car runs very well but lacks mid range power (2000-3500 rpm). Over 3500 it pulls really well. The tweaking is making marginal changes. Fitting 3" ram tubes (sadly only fitted with socks) and dropping timing back to 8 degrees have made good improvements. The cam timing I believe is most likely my cause of the issue but I do not have access to the gear (or ability to use it) to do the check. I will get this done next as I think I have someone now that can do it for me. I will however check that TDC is correct. Thanks again

Thanks Dave, easier than I thought....

Is there any locksmiths around (preferably Brisbane ) that can re-key locks? I have a few sets I would like to be done. Really do not want to have to buy new door and boot locks.

Thanks Dave, appreciated

Thanks yet again, I know. A little knowledge and not listening! Dam I am one of those blokes The real issue is that I do not want to put triples on it at the moment as with my limited knowledge getting triples setup is beyond me until I have much more time and money for this car. The Zed is getting caught short when I go for runs as the Sporty guys pull away from me in that mid range power band. The Zed runs really well and is great fun to drive but I know it's missing something...so it's the triples ...so it is what it is and I will live with that. The compression is 195-200 across the lot.

Thanks Gav, interesting clip. You can put a heap of indentations into headers for limited effect. I am confident on specs but not sure who built the engine. I have experienced massive gains on my U20 engine with valve timing, jetting and pipes. With a good set of long pipes you can get 20% more power at mid range revs. The pipes I have shown above which are like mine have very short primary's and this I am told is not great. Also with the different port sizes on the heads I assume that will also effect performance if the headers do not suit. I know very little about headers but understand that they are just as important as the carbs. Just wondering where to find the tests that people have done on them and others experiences.

Before I give up on my SU's I would like to extract as much as I can with them and my set up. I do not think I have a great set of headers/extractors (see photo below). Have looked around the forum but have not found a good thread discussing header options. Am I missing it? Any recommendations for my N42 L28 setup?

Just helping a friend with sorting a few issues with a car she has just purchased: My 1975 2+2 has the high point mount for the retractable front seat belts but I see that the 1974 does not have it. So is there a way to fit retractable seat belt in the earlier model? Where do you but the rear hatch seals? eBay? It is missing a badge from the lower passenger side corner of the rear hatch. Am I right is assuming that is where they put the "Auto" badge?

I have a 1974 2+2 that only seems to have the clock working and nothing else. The temperature, oil pressure and fuel gauge do not work and I am not sure about the amp gauge (it jumps a little when Ignition is switched on). The tacho, likely unrelated just goes to fuel gauge deflection when the ignition is switched on. Is there a voltage regulator or something that will take all the gauges out? Any help would be appreciated

Front guards http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/woori-yallock/auto-body-parts/datsun-nissan-240-260-z-new-gaurds/1100957414

Thanks Lurch, how can I determine the static compression ratio? Always felt it needed triples ..... but am concerned with getting good set and setting them up ....looks to be the next project Previous owner could not get triples to work but that should not stop me getting them right I hope

Thanks Dave. I had the valve timing done on my U20 and it made a major change to the overall performance. This was achieved with dial gauge as you mentioned but the adjustment required was by machining the fixing bolts an only moving the sprocket and very minor amount. Can this small amount of movement be achieved with the standard sprocket? (or am I missing something ) Thanks again Tim

Still not right, lacks power over about 2500 RPM and prone to pinging under load. Took if for the run at 4000 RPM after redlining it a few times and these are the plugs Definitely not running rich, look maybe a little lean. Still has a major "running on" issue when I switch it off. Changed timing from 12 BTDC to 8 BTDC runs better and does not ping anymore. Runs advance to around 30 BTDC at 4000 RPM. Any thoughts would be appreciated

Looking to set my valve timing and want to fit an adjustable sprocket to make the job easier. Where are these best purchased from or does anyone have one they would like to sell? Also is there anywhere about a drawing for the timing chain wedge?

A vibration at a certain speed is a out of balance issue. It must be in your rotating parts, most likely wheels/tyres. I doubt the rotors would be the issue. If you can get on car balancing would be best. Biggest issue I have found is getting a mob that is good enough to do a balance at all

Does anyone know if there is someone/business that could do this mod (all parts supplied) in Sydney?

Are these the same type? http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/cloverdale/other-parts-accessories/-rare-opportunity-vintage-retro-gt-bucket-seats-pair-/1099278518

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/ingleburn/engine-engine-parts-transmission/datsun-260z-parts/1099117723