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RBZ 260

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  1. Edit deleted the number and put few more sold signs even after 8 years still get 2 sms per month about it. should have kept it.
  2. You right. custom stuff never comes cheap. But for those that want a twin cam head on the old L maybe join forces and do a group buy. the more that join the cheaper it is. I gave Marcus a call today as a rough estimate on costing. One off design and manufacture you be looking at around $20k. Any further heads would be around the 8-10K mark. This all depends how many obstacles and time spent designing it. So more people interested the smaller the initial outlay. If someone knows how to design one on CAD, to save some of the R&D cost than only pay for machine time and chunk of alloy.Could be lot less compared to if they do everything. Obviously they don't warrant the design. Peter regarding the alloy blocks can be done but as above initial cost around 20k and than roughly 8-10k per block. the more interest cheaper it becomes. more like 8k mark. As indicated by the website. not cheap stuff. its for the ones chasing serious HP. Nobody said big HP is cheap or easy
  3. Went to visit this smallish shop in Adelaide that sell product called EvapoRust. Apparently good stuff for killing rust. the place is called Bullet Cylinder Heads. Got more than what I expected. link here: http://www.bulletcylinderheads.com.au/ Had a bit of a tour and quite impressive stuff. saw a custom SR20DET block , RB intake manifolds all designed and made from scratch out of billet. I asked about of possibility of a Twin Cam head on an L series block. The answer was yes. He hasn't done it but hes capable of doing anything to customer specs or basing it on any design to adapt to the block. 1100HP SR20 block is sure impressive and in Brays 1200 ute and few other race monsters out there. So they guy knows what hes doing. So for those that want a cross flow twin cam head based on RB or S20 (if u have the details) and not shy to part some of your hard cash (prob still lot cheaper than a S20 head or OS giken) maybe give Marcus a call. so for your custom blocks and heads and being in AU maybe the hard to have twin cam L is not so hard after all. Maybe group buy make price cheaper. now anyone got blue prints for S20 heads???
  4. LOL funny stuff. yeah check the fine print of the wager. if its your car vs his and you guys driving. Even if hes a tool as a driver you be struggling. Driven few R32 and R33 GTRs and all I can say good luck. I think you need a quite a nicely preped Z to go againts it. sometimes its just better to listen to their crap unless you and your car can do what you are saying. good luck let us know of the result and a You Tube video be nice love to see the Z win.
  5. yeah my cousin had a green silver two tone s13 with HUD and digital dash climate control etc.. was Ca18DE but we converted it to CA18DE-t. also had some rare factory front lip on it aero//nismo. he sold it few years ago was clean. saw it recently on gumtree for 5k but in lot more sorry state it cheezes me off when undeserving owners thrash/mutilate some nice reasonably rare models to make it look like a POS and than ask big ok if you play with common not so special models but mutilating Aero or GT models should be punished by death by stoning or crap parts they put on these cars.
  6. ^^^ exactly. But on a different note why there aren't any here yet. simple For that dough you can buy some very impressive cars. just to name a few 996 Porsche Turbo or any older than current model 997 (though seen a 997 turbo as low as 140K talk about depriciation) or couple of them R35 GTR R34 Nur GTR with spare cash for another R34 GTR to thrash around Quite a few Ferraries , 512, 348, F355, 360 even F430,etc...................... I'm a Z fanatic and love to have a 432. I would consider spending around 50-60k for one but no more. But if it came to crunch to part with 100K + ill be looking at any of the above in no time before considering the 432. well actually if I was going to spend 100k+ it wouldn't be Nissan/Datsun for sure. And there's the problem. I admit I wouldn't and most of us wouldn't consider spending 100K hard earned mula on a Z. We are the biggest fanatics to the model and we still wouldnt do it. . If there was someone in AUS that would there would have been one here long time ago. even though some of the best cars here prob cost roughly about that to rebuild but it was in dribs and drabs make sit easier to deal with than smacking big lump at once. my hat off to the first person who brings a 432 into the country. just hope one day those lotto number come up.
  7. No probs. Haha i like your thinking. Was thinking the same. Peeps if you have the cash and space now is the time to buy these hiding classics. And keep an eye for a clean example of the future classics. Like i said before keep an eye for s13 rps13 z32 and r32 r33 gtr. These are droping in price and getting destroyed at incredible rate. soon to be followed by s14,s15 and r34.
  8. Hey Mick, yeah I know they isuzu. I did say doesn't tick any of the boxes BESIDES made in japan bzzzzzz wrong. year was 1981. I remember it clearly like was yesterday. sitting on a tilt ramp in the middle of the yard. Bright yellow with full optioned body kit and alloys. it was the hottest car in the yard. I remember circling around it and imagining my dad cruising in it with me in passenger seat. I was running around him begging: "Dad dad buy that car" hmm he never did :'(. i was sucker for sharp lines and pop up headlights. should be a give away now. mate this what i was going to check out next but didn't want to spend 3K though Plus got a good deal on the car I bought. If you want me to check it out for you I probably can. Just shoot me a pm if interested. http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/semaphore/cars/1977-toyota-ra-28-celica-fastback/1002726098 other cars i was considering for their specialty yeah cordia turbo GSR is understated. good car but don't like FWD Holden/ISUZU (too keep mick happy) Piazza Turbo (EFI RWD and TURBO YAY) Mitsubishi Starion ( same as above and rare as rocking horse droppings expecialy later model with aero kit) Another holden/isuzu gemini coupe Any of the 2 door corrola's early celicas TA22 TA23 RA23 and R28 Mitsubishi Possibly starion/sigma turbo but later don't fall in my category as its got 4 doors. Pulsar ET turbo (with stock kit) rare as and crazy little car. also N12 Exa turbos expecialy the later models. pitty FWD Silvias S13 abused to buggery atm. Hard to find a nice one 200ZR Z31 Z32 300zx TT 2 seater same as S13 atm. cheap and thrashed out good ones hard to find. Used to like 240k the one Retro Z is asking for, but lately been put of by it. they not a really nice looking car unless you going to spend big $$$ making a GTR replica. That's my opinion anyway to me celicas (even i don't like toyota brand) are tuff looking car. it looks good on the outside and on the inside. same goes for RX4/ 929 Coupe and RX3, RX2 but we know they are quite hard and exy to get. enjoy hunting guys good to see we all looking outside the Z box every now and than. Im all for trying other cars but we all know we keep the Z in the special place where no other car can replace.
  9. Cheers for the offer but it doesnt tick any of my boxes besides made in japan. gumtree it. You sell it in no time. Gav shhhhhhhhhhh..... You and your damn rotas Check few of the cars allready and heart is set on one. Managed to get a even better price. Sometimes "firm" means make an offer go figure. All I can say its not a Z....... Childhood dream fullfiled after 30yrs seing one for first time on shop floor brand spanking new, begging my old man to buy it so I can be driven in it. Still remember the day like was yesterday........damn cars scared me for life.
  10. Just saw this. What a bummer but than again bargain repurchase price. I was looking at buying a s6 the other day with light damage at front. Found few front bars via ebay around $300 au mark. Postage my estimate at least 300-500 but get a quote from dhl. Maybe worth getting a price from mazda for the bar cover. Or check if any parts on ebay uk. Good luck.
  11. I had a similar question few days ago as i started to look for new cheap daily to downgrade too from my daily Few cars that ticked the following boxes for me. Rear wheel drive Sporty or cool looking Did i say cheap and drivable sub 3k that needs little bit of work. Cars that popped up ready to buy: price range for these from 1.3 to 3k Rx7 s2 man Sprinter ae86 260z 2+2 Ra28 celica mustang Ta22 celica 1200 coupe Stanza (4 door ) Capella ( 4 door ) Corolla coupe Im checking few of these during the week. Do have a dilema some are quite cool and rare these days so choosing one wont be easy. Though im still biased towards the 260z and have lots of spares already. Any thoughts?
  12. Just got this link given to me thought I share. Very insane I think they got a lot larger hoon problem than us here. This is the clean version with no accidents but you can view related when things go very very wrong. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=SondfrlaD_o#!
  13. Mustangs on a fly (or something like that) in SA did an AU xr8 floorpan with 67 mustang top half. Had an efi tickford v8 5 spd manual, abs, airbags, xr8 dash and seats etc.. From outside looked like a stock 67 mustang. It was engineered and registered. Apperently not that hard. It had to be registered as 01 mustang custom. Hence it had to have airbags and abs from donor floor pan. Car was recently sold over the border for measly 16k. Bargain for amount of work.you would never guess it was grafted from two cars 34 years appart. Modification marvel but a big financial flop.
  14. even easier http://www.zeddsaver.com/all_plates.html
  15. No no my precious Z's mine mine all mine My precious Lol Well it all started from Vlad checking the latest z i got and progress on musty. Question poped up: "so what u doing with the white one?" Reply was: either wrecking it, get it running with L and sell it or rebuild it and install a sr20det. After mentioning rebuild and sr20det conversion Vlad's eyes lit up. Now cannot get rid of him lol. Nah hes good. At this stage its homework time for him and decision making. Working out the most economical way for him to get his car build to his specs.
  16. Chris lot of head F for something realy not worth it. If you have your old cp just refit it and get it through id. Regarding carbs if only id and u have proper filters none would have noticed or said. I know few ppl going through id with their z with twin su turbo setup and cage and went through no probs. You complicating things too much. Also questioning too much.Dont say stuff unless asked. If car presents itself well they wont send you to the pits. If its a pig they will. And than its a lottery who u get. Even if u have tripple carbs fully sick cam they prob wont care too much. I was worried for my r34 for id. Took less than 3min with pass handed over and comment "here u go have fun" Things u need to make sure u tell them. Engine number with the chassis number both old and current if they not matching in paperwork at the moment. If you are missing the build plate order new blank one from us and stamp the chassis and engine that was last regod with. Ive been around cars and regency quite some time and i know you cannot get a replacemnt plate from manufacturer or from rego dept. they only issue one and if lost damaged its gone. Lucky US guys make blank replicas of factory build plates.
  17. And there's me thinking ive taught him all about z's At least I managed to get you to the dark side where real cars are. Hope you ready for the journey to the center of empty pockets Guys keep an eye on Vlad he's notorious for spending big so whatever z he gets his hands on sure will be a monster.
  18. Mick, regarding legalities. with mods you have shouldn't be a problem at all. there is few hoops u got to jump through anyway. the list of things that needed to be done when I had my 260z with RB20DET. 1.Stock engine with stock ECU and all Pollution gear present and working as per manufacturer requirement. (NO MODS what so ever) 2. Any custom made brackets need to be checked and approved by engineer. Makes no diff where its previously engineered. your engineer make the call. 3. Braking system equivalent to the car where the engine is used or any other approved by engineer. 4. Unleaded nozzle reduction for fuel filler (i know its stupid as we don't have leaded but it is a requirement. maybe stops retards filling it up with diesel) 5. Than anything and everything on the car has to pass roadworthy. ie demister working, lights, indicators,seatbelts, brakes etc.... now not sure if things have been more stringent since but i doubt it. but check anyway. you will have to go to rego and request an approval for mods prior to attempting mods. so keep it hush that you allready done it. your enquiring and planning to do so. regarding wiring. its not that hard. get the factory engine loom and ecu the rest is easy.fuel pumps etc is also piece of piss. hardest is making the brackets and mounting the suckers. You got my number so if you stuck give me a buzz and I make it a trip there and get the sucker running (need lots of notice btw) . Just make sure you get all the bits first without too much mutilation. looking good. 10mm is enough room to firewall. you want it nice and close. may be pain for some hose replacement down the track but oh well.
  19. Mick use r32 RB20DET item. no need to cut or dent chassis. just cut or fold out the "C" of the side of the radiator. (no water going through it) also u could use the thermal switch on the radiator to switch in your electric fans. just chose one around the 75-80c sensor had same setup in my 260. 42C day stuck in traffic with A/C full blast needle didn't move.never had an issue. Sorry I trust OEM stuff lot more than ebay junk. use brackets from R32 or make custom ones but use the insulators from r32. also you could use the lower rad hose from R32. top one i think i used something else but cut down. it was a simple shape. but before u go buying one try get measurement on heights as 260z have deeper rad support. may stick out a bit so keep note of that. also insulators from r31 could also be used. bit cheaper.
  20. Dave, not sure if you seen this yet, not a 2 seater but haven't seen one this clean in long time. if i find something of the 2 seater variety i let you know. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-260z-2-2-Sports-1976-2D-Coupe-3-SP-Automatic-2-6L-Twin-Carb-/251074905392?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3a753b0530
  21. In SA last time i checked they allow any engine to be installed without engineers report as long as power is not increased more than 25%. In theory if your na is modified to produce more than 25% u need report regardless its the original motor. In practice no one checks stock looking engines. Anything more engineers report is required. Pending on hp rating of l28 (official one from brochures or id plate) u may be able to fit an rb30et or rb20det or sr20det assuming hp rating on efi l28 is at least 10% more than l26 carby. So 240 or 260 cannot have rb20det or sr20det without engineers. Fitting a turbo to ur car is not a problem as that engine did come with one in US. Rb30 non turbo is acceptable replacement without engineers report. Now this info is about 2 yrs old so ring up regency and ask the latest info.
  22. Looking good guys. Micks on fire.
  23. Hi Roger, yes S13 or S14 silvia 200sx 180sx. Rb20 on R32 is cable driven so don't waste your time. R33 or R34 maybe, but not sure or physical dimension. yes Nathan is correct one is signal and other is signal ground. just run the two wires back to HUD. As for number of poles no idea but I'm sure you can select it through setting of your HUD. Keep changing the settings till you get the correct speed readout. You may need to play with different drive gears if its not giving correct speed. S13-S14 gear ratios are differnet. Diff ratio will play a part in it too.
  24. like you said has some good bad and the ugly. But all fixable. the area where roof and 1/4 panel meet where you have outlined. Its just lead fill done by the factory where two panels join so it nice and seamless. also same thing is done around the the front at the top corners of the windscreen area where "A" pillar meets the roof skin. If there is no signs of corrosion underneath or loose lead I wouldn't be concerned digging it out. good luck with it and don't rush.
  25. Mick u got PM.
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