PZG302

Not quite, wrong highway.....

Nah, one out west at the foot of the range

Thanks for the tips. I may have also found one worth looking at up here in brisvegas, but a couple of things a bit of a worry, hopefully check it out this arvo. Just waiting on the call for the job, typical local government, takes longer than expected.

Thanks Guys, very much appreciated. Will let you know if I need it looked at in the next coupple of days. Basically, I hope to have a six month work contract confirmed Monnday or Tuesday. As the job is a 90km each way commute, I need a car for the commute, don't want to put 1000km a week on the Missus' car or on the hairdresser car. I am looking at S14's to use as the daily commute car for the contract, or until I can afford a new ute, and then it will become the donor car for the new race jigger. Hopefully I will have something on the track towards the end of the year. If it checks out OK I will be picking it up fairly quickly to get it home. Matt

Guys, Hopefully someone can help me out. I may need a car checked out in Kylsith next week. I will know by midweek, depending on if new work contract comes through when I expect it to on Monday. If this does come off I will need the car checked out to make sure it is as described and no suprises so i can drive it back to Brisbane. If anyone can have a look at it for me, PM me and we will go from there. Cheers, Matt

Paul, Freddy from topstage should be able to sort you out for those, either PM him through here, user name Topstage from memory or through his website, just google topstage composites.

Z32 is 1" and also has holes opposite to 240 (horizontal as opposed to vert IIRC), so not sure how this affects you if using a booster. Unboosted you will have to redrill holes in firewall to suit.

I hope the new owners know you did this, I know of many occaisions when spacer blocks have been left in springs on race cars to get through scrutineering and then forgotton to be taken out and then wonder why the car handles so badly....

Or will the special guest jennifer hawkins and stephen hawkins lovechild, Hawk Hawkins......

I used it in the old track Z, was great for that as I didn't need any antifreeze component and also had the added benefit of no Glycol which is a requirement for CAMS racing, it can be more sliipery than oil on the tack. For my road car I will look at using it but will do a bit more research as to what anti corrosion properties it has as alloy heads with cast iron blocks and plain water or coolant with no corrosion protection isn't agood thing. In a race car no worries as I am generally dropping the water out fairly regularly for maintenance.

Hey, not my problem you're to lazy to polish it up before fitting it to the engine.....

Very nice chook cooker and one to keep as it left the dealer, there is bugger all non butchered ones around, unless you go for the fullblown Group C replica.

The only one I have is in the last motor, so not being seperated as was asked today..... If you find one Jason, you may also sell another few bits and bobs as well.....

And the clened injectors, if serviceable will be as good as new ones with volume, spray and pattern all checked for you so still cheaper than new.

I found that with a standard pulley on the alternator that the alternator would destroy itself because you are running for a fair length of time at a lot of revs. Centrifugal forcce is a wonderful thing. I never had issues with running out of battery at events once I got the alternator sorted and for driving on the road, how much time do you spend at idle? As long as you are punting around at about 2.5k rpm or more the alternator should be charging so no issues and no replacing alternators all the time.

I would clean and test yours first, depending on cost, and if they come up all good then you are giggling. The offer is there and always good to have spares floating around just in case.

Mate, I've got a set of standard 280 injectors here in brissie off my pld race motor, will need a clean and testing bt for $100 take them away, or add postage and i can send them to you.

What Jason said about the alternator. Run the underdriven pulley and it will serve you well, go back to a noormal pulley and you will be frying alternators nearly every event. And like Jason I'n bored today as well....... At least nothing to clean up from the storm.

Looking good Peter, a real credit to you and it shows what can be done at home with patience and dedication.

Or........ Go the full monty and get rid of the fuel flap altogether, replace the standard tank with a 120 litre fuel cell in the same spot, replace the rear hatch glass with 4mm lexcan, reinforced with aluminium strips with a hole cut for the full drybreak system to fit flush with. Gees you guys are getting as precious as MX5 owners......

Fo r an Auto of that age 3rd would be the norm as that is D for drive

If you want to step up to 18"wheels i have a set of 3 piece Oz wheels for sale of my old race car. they would need to be pulled apart and resealed and given a polish, but apart from that I think would suit the colour nicely.

take it to a Zed specialist and get them to have a look at it. You have a couple of good workshops down in Mexico that will know what's going on. They should tell you whether they need a quick tune or more work on them to get them up to scratch. From there you can make the choice as to whether to look at rebuilding your carbies, getting a replacement set of standard types (240 or 260) or stepping up to triples or making the jump to EFI. From the sounds of it, if he has had them rebuilt to suit that motor then it could be a quick refurb and a tune by someone who knows what they are doing with them. Unfortunately there aren't too many mechanics who like playing with 40 year old motors anymore so when you find one you tend to keep them. In my ccase I have 3 different workshops that work on my cars, one for my Charger, as they know the old 265 backwards and can get it to work very well, one for the hairdressers car, beacause they are the best workshop in Brisbane for these cars hanns downto complete the services I can't do at home and the third workshop for the race car because he knows the motors I am playing with and will set up the car to suit what i want and his work is to the standard i demand without asking.

From where all my dints from stones were under my guards the foam should work ok and not be a rust trap unless water can sit between the foam and the guard, which would be pretty hard to do looking at the pics. Looking forward to seeing this get on the tracck in the near future.

Are we going to play more with the 120Y and fairlady, or has the bug bit for more traipsing around the world in business class......