PZG302

Pity you are down in Mexico. I have one that has been sitting under my garage for a few years you could have.

Well depends on what you consider expensive? My back of the drink coaster cost estimate, you'd be up at around $30K to have that engine in the hole and running even with no fabrication skills. That's assuming the engine doesn't go for more than around $17K to $18k. Custom exhaust about $3k going on what it costs to make a six cylinder one off manifold for a hemi six, ECU's are cheap, so around $2,5 to $3K. Wiring would be a pain, but with the engine harness included not insurmountable with some time and patience. A bit of fabrication for engine mounts and bell housing, get a six speed gearbox for around $6k. So yeah, about what you'd spend on an L series to get the same power as the fezza motor....

As you said above, yes the good tyres for suspension set up, but also important for other factors as well. Depending on levels of grip between them, you can mask other deficiencies using the cheapies that all of a sudden show up when you bolt the good tyres on and go fast for the first time. A car that was predictable as it got the edge of grip and slid nicely, may on stickier tyres hold and hold and then just snap you around. Generally on cars as agricultural as a Zed, it probably won't be an issue, but it may be. Especially if your cheap tyres are a few seconds off the pace of the good tyres. The extra pace comes from the extra grip for higher and more sustained cornering speeds. An exaggerated case of this, and only used here for demonstration, was the final year of the old series production and first year of Group C racing where proper race tyres (slicks) were used plus the introduction of the Falcon Coupes. The engines started to destroy themselves due to oil surge caused by the extra grip of the stickier and much wider tyres run between the old XY sedan and the new XA coupe. Personally I also had similar issues for a while when I went from Street sedans to the old version of IPRA in a 180BSSS. The old tyres were dunlop Ducaros, a reasonable street tyre of the day and overnight I went to Bridgestone RE005 semi slicks, cue oil problems and an excuse to get a 2.2 litre L18 put in the hole.....

Be careful with that, it can bite you on the arse badly.

Slicks are more consistent than R spec and better grip and consequently when set up a car is easier to drive faster than on treaded tyres. When they do let go it is at a much higher threshold than treaded tyres, except for maybe the Hoosier cheater tyres. Each to their own, but for me, if the category/class allows for slicks, then that's the way I would go.

Why not??? Once you go bald you never go back.... If the rules allow it I would run slicks every time, mindful of course that you need to set the car up for them. The extra grip compared to any "R" spec treaded tyre is awesome. Only downside is that for radials, when they let go, they let go quickly and can be pretty hard to catch. And find the right sources, they are cheap.....

No problem running with a CIG locker, I did for many years with no problems. I just made sure my set up took that into account. Hopefully this post gives you a bit of a comparison and where you may head to in setting your car up. It seems like there is an inherent balance problem with the car that needs to be resolved first before you go looking at ARB adjustment. As Lurch stated, adjusting roll bars is the last step after everything has been sorted. I would be going back to basics and looking at the simple things, spring rates, dampers, wheel alignment and even bushes being used. It's been a long time since I had the green monster but here was the suspension set up it had from memory: Koni adjustable dampers Car 240Z built to CAMS 2B rules, track only running 18"x8" wheels with full slicks. Standard struts with spring perches dropped 2 inches to lower static height of car whilst retaining full spring and shock length. Rates - front 450lb/inch, rear 420lb/inch The front arms and location were standard, but the rear was played around with a little to try to get some anti-squat and anti-dive happening. Bushes were a mix of nolathane and rubber front and rear to tighten up the suspension on general, but let it move where it needed. Front bar was from memory one size up from standard, but hazy on that, and with no rear bar. Slicks were 240/640/18, it also ran 225/50/15 Toyo RA1's as wets or hillclimb tyres on the same set up. In the wet on the circuit it still worked very well, but you could overpower the rear tyres pretty easy. For hill climbs, I could light up the rears for first and second if I showed no symapthy, but a dry hill climb run was pretty predictable Power was 200rwhp and plenty of torque, 210 or so ftlb. The motor was a lazy truck motor, so didn;t rev hard, but pulled better than a 14 year old. In a car with a proper LSD it would be very oversteery, as it was set up to try to remove the understeer inherent with a locker. You could induce oversteer with hamfisted use of the throttle at corner exit, or if you jumped on the throttle too quick would induce understeer as the diff tried to push you straight ahead. Once we had the damper adjustments sorted and a preferred wheel alignment, basically as much castor as we could and as much front neg. camber we mainly played with front and rear toe, and I can't remember what we ended up with, but it was checked a couple of times a year and that was it, never touched it once we had it sorted. This picture shows the car at full suspension travel (droop on the front right, compression on the front left and just starting to apply throttle taking a very late apex for the run down the hill) at Eastern Loop at Lakeside. It was very stiff compared to most zeds when it was built.

I'm staying in the gutter, I rarely get out of the gutter, but really, we all know that the AU was the pinnacle of automotive engineering and excellence, it has no peers, it is just the best.

Exactly, that Stagea is just a poor imitation of the pinnacle of automotive engineering that is an AUII wagon Forte on LPG

Is that Lee's car or Greg Quince's car???

That's the beauty of Nissan/Datsun...... The homologation documents don't mention cast numbers for the manifolds, nor do they have many details on the throttle body. The N47 inlet manifold does come off a L28, but I have absolutely no idea which one..... It is not your usual L28DET manifold, and as I have said previously I have only ever seen one other. The manifold to avoid is the NAPS manifold with the twin butterfly throttle body. The twin butterflies combined area is actually smaller than the more usual single ones and the airflow is disrupted, especially at higher speed running of the engine.

Yes but there are few tweaks that can be done and there are a few different throttle bodies that can be used and also inlet manifolds. My green car ran a standard jetronic computer for a couple of seasons before changing over to the Haltech F9 when it was the gun computer. The guys that played with mine discovered a way to double pulse the injectors so it thought it was running teh V12 XJS Jag that that computer was also used on. There a few other ways to get more fuel out of the jetronic computer, such as dropping resistors, that I have no idea about, but those smarter than me do. The throttle body I used was from a L20 turbo I believe, all I know is it was a period Datsun throttle body and only a couple of mm shy of the XF throttle body size that was the popular swap back in the day. The inlet manifold I used was an N47, IIRC, very different in shape the ADM L28 manifolds in the runners and also the overall casting was very different. I have only seen my manifold and one other in my travels, but it still seemed to be a better thing than what could be done within the rules to the standard manifold.

Pfft, you're not really CDO unless you get the letters in the correct alphabetical order......

My new cars are left for up to six months at a time without being started (FG Ute and E61 Wagon), and my old Merc hasn't moved in near 18 months. All I do for my cars is connect a battery monitor as they are new, and the BMW has eleventy computers that need power or I have to read war and peace to get everything set up again. When I get home, pre start checks are done to make sure they have oil, I check tyre pressures top up if necessary and then take them for a decent drive. The old merc will need some love when I next get it out as the interior has gotten mouldy from the humidity and being all closed up. I will also do an oil change, throw some new fuel in it as it is empty at the moment, pump up tyres clean the interior with vinegar to get rid of the mould and then jump start the battery, if it hasn't completely died. When I did a six month stint in NZ and had an old ZG Fairlane I disconnected the battery and pulled the points out of the distributor, more for security than anything else.

I think you mean Hitachi's Gavin. Datsun/Nissan used Hitachi Carburettors manufactured in Japan, not the British made SU Carburettors, unless the owner has done the common for the day swap of some 1 1/2 or 1 3/4 inch SU carburettors from a Jag, Triumph or other British car. Yes, I'm bored at work, you can only spend so much time writing a data management framework for a national road authority before needing a break