NZeder

Do it - you get the z31 back in the future anyway

I don't think the RB or the RB-R will have these issues. I say this as the design of the RB/RB-R is one that has more alloy in them, two they have more spokes, three are a lot heavier than rims shown in the pics. Remember the superlite look/style was designed in the 60's and these for years (and still today) are the choice of rim for rallies of all kinds. I have seen a few rims centre ripped out here at our tracks in NZ most are these skinny type spoke design which the RB/RB-R are not.

Here are pics of the inlet manifold and vacuum block with the frost plugs installed.

A bit late but congratulations on the series win So how is the new ECU install going or is this going to be done later?

As Lurch as already stated - for better fuel atomisation not that fussed about fuel consumption. My engine builder (did not build this one as I imported from Japan already built) told me the further away I can get it the better for this NA setup. This is why I made the adaptors out of 20mm plate. However given the room I have between the strut tower and the inlet I could have made these out of 50mm plate thus moving the injectors another 30mm further away - that might be a task for later if more HP is required (or just put the head on a RB30e bottom end for another 400cc) Going to collect the engine and intake manifold later today so I will show you pics of intake with the injectors holes blocked off - I was going to weld these up but then thought about the frost plug idea - this way if I ever need or want to install injectors back near the head I can....maybe if I wanted 2 set-ups ie one for power with the injectors away and another for better fuel consumption using smaller injectors close up - or to add more fuel who know this is why I did not weld the holes so to keep the options open.

Ok got some pics of the painted block for you to see let me know what you think Did some work on the intake manifold today - blocked of the original injector locations with small frost plugs and 2 holes I made by removing the spider from the vacuum block. See this pic for what I mean. I will post pics of the completed intake tomorrow or the next day

Well for reference - my old 240z road/race car had 298x28 VT front rotors and clearance was not a problem with the Rota RB-R 16x8 that I had on the car. I even installed the rims on a mates 240z race car which has 12.2x1.25 or 309mm x 32mm with a Wilwood type caliper (US Brake F88i = same spec and dimensions as the Wilwood Billet Superlights) and clearance was not an issue and in fact they almost cleared the 15x8 Rota RB's that I had also but the calipers fouled just a little so these would have worked with a smaller rotor ie 298mm x 32mm or 11.75" x 1.25" as the 12.2" were just a little too large for the 15" rims with the caliper on his race car - I am sure with a different caliper the large rotor would have worked in the 15" Rota's but 16" were not a problem at all. So you should be fine.

This is easy to fix - if you are single then get a girl friend who has a sensible car and use that when you need more seats Now as the swap is with your Dad - don't forget the z31 is still in the family and just let him know that you have first offer when he goes to sell it - that way in the future you might have the $$ to purchase it back again = 240z, 260z and the Z31

Well spend most of today using paint striper, wire brushes, razor blades and the odd screw driver to remove all of the old blue paint. And as expected some of the original RB Black paint was under there too. So with all the blue removed and 95% of the original black (man that stuff was stuck with the 5% in the corners and tight spots so this does not look like it will ever move) the head and front cover etc were all masked up and a good few coats of acid etch primer, then silver was put down. Now I did not take my camera with me so a pic will have to wait until I go to collect the engine in a few days after some time to quire. But the colour turned out just like the S20 engine shown in this tread above. So now just to replicate that rocker cover colour - that might be harder. Thinking I might also make up some stripes like the original S20 rocker cover too but have NISSAN and 2600 on the top. Thoughts on the rocker cover idea?

For Turbo setup I would got the F54 as this is what Nissan used for the L28ET. However don't go for a large bore ie nothing larger than 88mm ie 2mm over as you want more meat for boosted setups. If however you are going stroker and large bore I would say stick with the N42 as these are better suited for this application IMHO. That is my 2 cents.

I would agree - good head work does cost as there is a bit of labour involved but good results will be achieved if the guy knows what he is doing If you can do a rebuild for $2500 good on you - my last L28 cost me $8500 AUD but that was a 3.0 and included some special parts from Japan and put down 230HP at the wheels on pump gas.

A club racer here in NZ had one and it was very strong but that was due to the holenger dog engagement setup ie very $ box. For the money I would have one of the following 1. B box (be it a 260z or 280zx) and install a gearset. Why have a 260z box over a 280zx box if you are replacing the ratios anyway? 2. C box from a skyline and gearset to fix the ratios I would go for 2 as the C box selector ie much nicer and the gears are stronger and that is just what I had for my L6. I even managed to find a rare L series C box from the last of the LD28. But this was after I had an L series bellhousing modified to fit the RB box.

I know what you mean - I have seen a few race cars with that setup - a good idea but as you say a lot of work + the bonnet I have is a vented one so that is lid option gone right there. So I think I will just get a ITG unit in the New Year so I can get the car running as soon as I have it home - Feb I hope.

Looking forward to seeing the results after Jan - silver with a difference - can't wait.

Yes my brother is a good panel man just for me not fast :-\ 13 years off the road is long enough - so it will be finished in the next 6 months. I will be catching up with my bro on boxing day so I will be arranging for him to open the shop so I can go over and do some work during the break. I will take the engine back to his shop as he has some paint for the block now too I just need to make up my mind on the air cleaner/air box setup for the throttle bodies. The issue is these trumpets are large and the K&N filters I had (purchased for the old race car but never fitted them) will not work as the trumpets are too wide so the filter does not fit over. So then I was thinking of making up a clear air box out of Lexan (well like lexan but more fire resistant ie PC = PolyCarbonate) but this depends on how flash I want to get with under the engine bay - for now I just want to get the car back so I can get it assembled, certified and back on the road so I am now thinking about just getting a ITG Multi Carb Megaflow filter - see here for a pic That way I can work on the PC airbox over time and get it right etc (if I go down that path the ITG might look fine) What are your guys thoughts on this?

Ok so today I started to strip the engine so I can repaint the block. So here are some more pics/links to pics. Anyway the DOHC engine is now home after sitting at the brothers workshop for a while. Infact sat in the garage at home for a long time too. I started to strip the engine so I can clean up the block and repaint it and get it ready for the DCOE throttle body install. So I found out that the factory 432's had their blocks painted a bright silver so I will paint my hybrid RB25/26DE (that is RB25 bottom end with RB26 head in normally aspirated config) the same. However looks like this will have to be custom as normal engine enamel in a car from REPCO and the like only come in Blue (two types, holden and ford), Red, Black and Orange. So here is pic of the S20 engine in the original colour - you will notice the front sump setup so this is from a GTR Skyline. Here is a pic of the engine bay of a 432z Now some pics of the stripping of the engine getting ready for paint removal and then painting later over the break. So first up is the engine with the wiring harness removed Pic of the spider under the intake Another pic of the plumbing Plenum and standard RB26 TB's removed - I was surprised how light this plenum is as it does not look that light. Another shot of the RB26 TB's Engine shot without plenum and tb's installed you can see the spider Close up of the spider Spider and intake manifold removed from the engine Pic of engine with the manifold/plenum/TB's removed

Updated my website so pics when missing - now putting thumbnail pic back - click to see/download the full pic Well having posted some info in the following thread - I thought I should start my own journal. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2377.0.html So just to recap from above thread. I purchased a RB25/26DE hybrid that I will be installing to my 260z 2 seater. My project has been 10+ years in the making with the car removed off the road to cut out the rust from under the battery box. A number of project changes have occurred over this time, along with other zed purchases to shift my focus from time to time. So here are just some pics of the car from my site - from when the car was purchased to its current state - the summary view

now now Gav - that white zed is not yours - those in the know (reads been around zeds and the web long enough) will tell you who's zed that is I will post when my car is complete and back on the road - so it might take a while before that happens.

Yes nice colour I like it. Has that Skyline connection to go with the engine and yet not too flashy to make the old school body look out of place like some modern colours. Cheers Mike

good luck - there is nothing on the 240z chassis code that will tell you if it left the factory as an auto or a manual or what ratio diff it has. This did not come in until the 280zx range in the Zed chassis numbers. The engine number should match the engine number on the ID plate in the engine bay which again will match the chassis number to this same ID plate.

Well given zed sell for more over here in NZ on average - here is link to a thread about a 240z that sold for $31K cheaper than $35K AUD as I am talking NZ funny money here. The car used to be owned by a Nissan dealer and was fully restored by them when in their ownership. So I think 35K for that car is OTT in your market. Here is the thread about the car I am talking about http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,2434.0.html I have lots of pics of the detail of the car but I did not take any of the car as a whole as these were on Trademe (long gone now) but you will see in the thread mentioned one pic of the level this car was at...ie looked like a new stock 240z.

I have not done it but I only went to look at a 240z with just such a setup once (shame the body was so stuffed) in period Janspeed was one of the places selling a kit for this setup too.

Yes the rota's have always been big sellers over here so numbers are high - and I look too - 70's Japanese car I guess I love that kind of thing as I spent the early 70's living in Asia as a child. Not sure by we might have the highest rotaries per capita I know we are the second next to Italy when it comes to Ferrari ownership. Anyway I digress. paying big $$ for a genuine Fairlady Z 432 is just the market much like the 60-70's Ozzie Holdens/Fords market is now very high (for those special models) and personally I would much prefer to pay $100K for a rare 432 than for a old taxi (reads Falcon or Monaro)

I would not say that - I have seen good cars listed for 20k USD - remember a numbers game - they have lots and lots and lots of them and finding rough ones for lower $$ can still be had. Here in our parts of the world finding a 240z or 260z for sale is not a common task - yes in Australia at anyone time there might be 5 for sale any given week of the year somewhere in Oz but in the US there would be 20 or more so if you are looking for one chances are you will find one. Here in NZ you don't see them for sale for months then 3 come up....then 6 or 12month dry spell again. So you guys in Oz are luck as they price is still lower over there than here.

agreed - remember that the accountants and the Skyline GT-R team did not want the S30 to have the S20 engine in the first place they are a rare piece of Nissan history that I for one would love to own and the number outside of Japan is few and far between. I believe there was one in Australia years ago - not sure if it when back to Japan or not. I guess that is why I am putting the hybrid RB25/RB26DE engine in my 260z 2 seater, as I long for a 432 and this is closest I can get a 2600cc DOHC NA powered 260z - within my current budget (which is well blown and I think by now I could have had a good replica 432 or a rough genuine 432 with all the $$ I have spent on all the zed's I have owned over the past 16 years)