NZeder

Pics of my old 240z with rota RB-R 16x8 +10 with stock guards and suspension ie no coil overs (the front will not work with this offset on a 260z front strut as the spring perch will fowl the rim) tyres are 225/45/16

The stock 240z/260z tachs read via an inductive loop from the +tive side of the coil not a -tive like newer tachs. I had the guts of mine replaced with a modern -tive circuit board. There is a thread on hybridz about how you need to change the wiring to get your stock tach to work if you don't do what I did. I will be selling my modified tacho in the future as I will be upgrading to an aftermarket tacho now.

made it to the dark side I see Kent - so this will make many of the boy's over at CZCC happy that you have joined the zed camp.

Every forum has a GOC (grumpy old c$nt) this one has Lurch - You think this avatar would be enough of a hit

I agree go easy on the first timers - break them in slowly. I like the jest that members on this forum come up with it is not in your face offensive or littered with fowl language (which never looks good when written down as you can't get the feeling for the context it was meant) There is one forum I local here in NZ I only visit every now and then as there are some knowledgeable guys on their but there is also a large young crowd so grammar and language can be an issue so I don't visit this site much anymore (got a PM recently tell me to lighten up after trying to correct their Datsun history, typical teenager, I was informing them that Nissan never purchased Datsun but Dat back in the 30's....anyway I like to ensure people get the facts correct - hell I am still learning after 37 years so I love to be corrected when wrong, this way I learn from my mistakes) One thing I can't stand is text language on a computer screen (or a phone for that matter) there is no place for it - it is just laziness and only a few more key strokes to put the full word in. I know we have a forum "Introductions and Forum Etiquette" and if a new member's post is a little off in the content/grammar etc we can forward them a link to the forum as a gentle reminder. If this is posted in their thread/after their post and they don't read it and continue then let them have it as it is there own doing if they did not follow the guide lines outlined in the Etiquette. Now I guess let them have it is also against those same guidelines so care should always be taken if you would not say it to their face don't put it the written word. I would be anal on the location thing - as if this is not filled out and some post like I have seen recently in another forum "Looking to purchase 240z.....locally" by the idiot did not have his location filled in or post were local was? Yes if you visited this guys other posts you would have seen is was looking for a engine building in his location too but who has time to visit all of someones post to find out were local is? If don't want it to be known were you are, cool just put your state as lest ie TSWGAF, NSW. TSWGAF is an acronym I am sure many are smart enough to work it out.

no that is a RB26DE no TT just NA all the way and 260ps factory it was build but Autech and was in a 4 door 4WD Auto only R32. Look at that though a LS1 is the same weight as a 20B rota so they are heavy little pups really as the 20B is still not a large engine. Also don't forget that most of these weights might be based on stock engine ie cast headers/exhaust manifolds as put on a header (or new turbo manifold if a turbo car) and you can save 10kg

Not that long ago there was an Autech RB26DE engine for sale here in NZ - if I did not have my RB25/26 hybrid engine from Japan I would have purchased it - $3999 NZD funny money would have got it and it had only done 73,000km here was the auction http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Nissan/Engines-drive-trains/auction-186522272.htm and here is a pic of the engine I got from the seller - I have his email still as I am sure this might not have sold (small market)

so true that is why on my top five list I have my current car once I get it back on the road...one day....11 years now and counting...this is the year it will be going again. Now if I was to put together a motorbike list too...hmmm It would be nice to go through that collection that Nissan has - just look at all the Nissan/Datsun and famous racing cars there are.

nice how about the R390 GT1 road going version Nissan only made 2 and 1 is for sale now that would be nice too. Twin turbo 3.5l V8 that goes from 0-60mph in 3.8s has 560hp@6800 and top speed of 205mph weights in at 1027kg

Yes but those cast iron plates add up + turbo's etc. I think a standard 13B non turbo is in at around 260lb = 118kg which is a lot given the size vs a L18 which comes in at the same weight. I think the newer 13B weigh more remember they have to use good high nickel iron for the end plates in a rota's so that makes the iron heavier. The atomic weight of Nickel is 61.3 (resent studies show this to be heavier than first thought of 58.7) and iron is 55.8 I did think about it at one point - but I was going to get a 4 rotor aka 26B in a 260z lol. However the cost of the custom shaft was $8000 then you need to get those housing both the cast end and sandwich plates then the alloy housing and high CR rotors, apex seals....so it would have been a $26-35 K engine but they sound great and the power ooh the power 500HP in NA form.

Don't let the all alloy fool you - have to seen how much a SR20 comes in vs other iron block 4 cylinders? Example SR20DET = 149KG a CA18DET = 128KG. And a FJ20ET is only 166KG and that is iron so only a few KG more for an engine that is almost bullet proof. So if you want to keep the weight down go for a turbo 4 cylinder these can get big power and torque when used with the right setup/parts etc. Or go the new Nissan QR25DE only 121KG then put a turbo on that or turbo a L20B the weight savings in the 2 cylinder vs the L28 will make up for the extra weight in turbo, intercooler etc and a L20B comes in at 137KG but then a non turbo FJ20 is 144KG and that would be a better choice so I say SR20DET or FJ20ET

- the question is a bit open - do you want to know with acc ie alternator, intake, exhaust manifolds connected etc. I don't know the correct answer but I have a book at home that states the L28 ie 179kg with the 432z's S20 engine coming in a 199kg, however this does not state if this is a bare engine or loaded.

lol well I might just wait for the ferrari heist of 2010 as I would like a 250GTO please, well if we are building a list.....I think we have to add the Lambo Miura My list would be long but I had to cut it down so I could count them on 1 hand then (in no order) Ferrari 250GTO Lambo Miura Toyota 2000GT Nissan FairladyZ 432 and last by not least My custom 260z as I will never part with this car - too much work gone into it. If I won the lotto I would import a 432 into in NZ in a heart beat no matter what the cost.

I see one problem in the plan you will not get 150 OS Giken L Series Twin Cam heads. You see your logic is slightly flawed as if you know the truth no I can't say well I could but then I will have to kill you No but seriously OS Giken only made 10 heads in the first batch, these were made with better alloy than the second batch so more have survived the test of time vs the 2nd batch (with the second batch now becoming soft). Last I heard there were 3 known to be in running cars. Maybe BENZED with his connections to OS Giken could find out more for us - I am sure there is no chance of getting such a head and it would be good if we had the option like the pusgorts get from Cosworth (you know they still make YB and BDG, BDD, BDA heads and parts ) it would be nice if Nissan keep things like the S20 in production or FIA/Works heads and parts for us. However if we do this great car robbery I get dibs on the standard PS30

Well mine were larger too - they are a tight fit for sure.

Yep and that bad boy has a genuine LY cross-flow engine under the bonnet too it was restored using all the correct parts from Nissan collection - would be nice to have access to the parts bins at Nissan.

by all means do - welding up the holes was an option but not during the xmas break so I just used welsh plugs (frost plugs - I guess I should have used the correct name ) and in the end it turned out fine (would have been better if I had cut them down first - a job for RON as in later on). And I think a great idea if I don't say so myself.

Well did not get to do much over the last few days but I did get a change to install the cleaned up stock RB26 intake manifold Then I attached the DCOE Adaptors plates So today I will be going down the road at lunch time to get some new M8 studs so I can install the DCOE throttle bodies in the next day or so. I am still not 100% sure what I will do with regards to the air cleaner/air box setup so I will just think about this some more.

Found this on another forum after a google of

Over the year the content has gotten better but in the past it had incorrect information which has misled a number of those new to zed's too. Anyway works fine for me.

but it would be ok on gerbils

No the arm rest are correct all the 260z that I have seen with white interior (which is not many not that common of a interior colour and I have only seen it on the blue cars) have the black arm rest - here is a pic of another 260z in Oz with white interior I can't recall but I think the same is the case with the 240z - anybody with a 240z with white interior (I did have some pics of a red 240z with white interior on my PC but I deleted them to make space...so can't confirm 100%) Come to think of it - I think all 260z have black arm rest even the tan and brown interiors EDIT: Don't know what happened with the pic might be as the link as a space in it so here is a link to car in question http://www.angelfire.com/extreme3/260z/Pic%205.htm

Now that I have gone to a RB engine I took the time to modify my new engine mounts to take the "Energy Suspension" Universal Jeep motor mount for the following reasons. 1. They are easy to come by 2. They are cheap 3. They are a poly mount 4. They have a safety interlock design ie if the poly fails the mount will still hold together 5. They are close to the stock zed mount with only the ears wider apart and the centre bolt slightly larger (I just increased the size of the hole in the cost member to take the mount) The issues 1. Not a metric stud on the mount. 2. You need to modify your engine mount brackets for the wider mount. See here for a link to the mount I am using and for the link on hybridz that shows the interlock design - if I was still running a L28 I would have made the mod to use these for the same reason stated above. Also as I was changing my gearbox to the later C box I had to modify my gearbox cross member also so I again took the chance to swap to the energy suspension GM gearbox mount as this bolts up to the Nissan C/B boxes not a problem. Has the same interlock and poly in the design these are also shown on the link below - I got them in Black as they come in Black or Red. I when I come to doing the diff I might see if I can use the same GM gearbox mount also http://www.energysuspension.com/pages/univ3.html http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120218

Thanks for the reply - your injector plugs and wires are neat - were did you get those? Or did you put that shield over the wires your self. I just have some new plugs with wires on and not a nice looking boot/shield like that of yours.

Dimitri, I have just been re-reading this thread for some inspiration and noticed your post about how you changed the linkage setup after a visit to Steven Newings. Pic for reference I see you no longer have the balance joiner and you know have 3 drop arms was this recommended - I have balance joiner between all the TB's on my setup and I am going to use a cable pull directly on the TB's. I assume Steven recommendation was against this? What are others thoughts on this? I had balance joiners on my triple carb setup in my old 240z and it worked fine.