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C.A.R.

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C.A.R. last won the day on October 12

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About C.A.R.

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    Victoria
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    Taking care of business...

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  1. I ran the group buys with the parts and panels supplied by Resurrected Classics in the USA as they were the only supplier at the time. It ended up being an expensive process. The prices listed here https://allmusclecarparts.com.au/datsun/240-260z.html are much cheaper. I'm not sure how much you'd save by importing them yourself, but best of luck.
  2. Yep. Just as I remember it. Get the whole thing media blasted (by someone whos knows what they are doing) and locked up in Epoxy. Then start the repairs.
  3. C.A.R.

    door alignment

    Are the doors original or reproductions? Slot the door mounting holes in the bottom hinge to move the door in.
  4. If you want china panels, you can get them here in Australia: https://allmusclecarparts.com.au/datsun/240-260z.html Do they fit? Yes. Are they OEM quality? No.
  5. Measure the thickness of the original panel, then replicate in the appropriate thickness steel. 0.7mm & 0.95mm cold-rolled are both available from steel merchants.
  6. It's on again! Date: Sunday 29th November 2026 Time: 11am Onwards. Location: Same as previous years, Gordon and Sharon's property in the outer East near Lilydale. Please prey for dry weather! PM me or @Gordo for the address if you haven't been before. Bring your Zed, food and Drink and a chair. The wood fired BBQ will be provided. Bring your Wives , partners and kids. All welcome!
  7. Just media blast it or soak it in a 4:1 Water & Critic Acid solution.
  8. Convert it to manual transmission, and you wont have to worry about the screws (you can buy them from your local bolt shop - M6 counter sunk)
  9. Centre of balance point is 75mm above the bumper centre-line. It's very easy to work out. The F&R bumper mounts are plenty strong enough to support a bare Z shell. FWIW we have two rotisseries that we made from engines stands with the centre mast raised by 400mm. Don't over think it - they are easy to build.
  10. The painted suspension going back in with new bushes:
  11. Assembly could now begin. All the plated parts were organized, and any sub-assemblies were put together. The fuel and brake hard lines were installed in the chassis, followed by the brake booster, brake and clutch M/C's, and pedal box. The firewall mat was supplied by ZCarDepot to suit a RHD Z, but it needed much modifying to fit. Very disappointing and I don't recommended it.
  12. With Daniel wanting a lower Z, we needed to have the strut tubes shortened so we could maintain effective bump travel. I took some measurements, then sent the bare struts off to be shortened and the gland nut threads recut. Being that the struts are 55mm (with the long rear tube), the rear needed a spacer in the bottom with a spigot to engage the bottom of the Koni insert to pack it up and keep it central, so a pair were machined up out of aluminum. We then assembled the struts with new Lovells lowering springs and their rebuilt braking components so we can fit the struts to the 260Z and get it rolling on it's wheels.
  13. $3k-$4k buy the time it's all done. We are in the Latrobe Valley.
  14. I'm currently working on Daniels suspension for his restoration. The struts are away getting their tubes shortened so we can obtain enough bump travel. Then to get the ride height lower still with the Lovells lowering springs, I'm going to drop the perches on the tubes until I get the ride height I'm after. I ended up using Koni Yellow Sport damper inserts from the front of a Z31 for all for corners, with a special Koni gland nut to suit the 55mm strut tubes. In the future if Daniel wants firmer springs or the ability to easily adjust the ride height, he can fit height adjustable platforms.
  15. In our shop, from bare metal we Epoxy, then prime, then mask off the rails, stone chip the flat panels, then apply body colour over everything. IMHO This is the most professional way to go about the underside of a Z:
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