NickF

Agree on paint 2 pack and base and clear is one of the biggest mistakes on restorations that go for "factory finish" Will paint in acrylic lacquer Not a fan of "nut and bolt restorations" seems like a waste of money to re-plate anything let alone window winder mechanisms and any thing that can't be seen Just going for an every day driver that's solid and not over restored. Nick

A bit harsh😠 Merry Christmas

Great response from all thank you What I would like to achieve is a restoration that doesn't look like one. No plated parts, used parts where possible and no fancy paint. Keep as much of original metal as I can. Seems a lot harder than it should be. Nick

1 when I paint the scuttle panel should it be painted un fastened in position with masking paper under neath?ie no paint on wiper motor cover and no paint on screws 2 should the plenum chamber be battleship grey (red paint) or does it depend on top coat 3 tail gate hinge rubbers and metal retainer painted in position 4 bonnet hinge painted fitted 5 wing bolts painted Thanks in anticipation Nick

240-260z - Datsun.webloc Muscle Car Parts Australia hatches $895

Wonderful Such a pity the aftermarket parts are NQR Nick

Thanks Don't have the ability to DIY bonnet repair has to be spot on Nick

Hello Would it be viable to repair? additional damage to rear centre Nick

Molotow liquid markers easy to use come in a few sizes fantastic finish

I can understand why some restorations take soooooooooooo long been fiddling with this knob for ages printed the insert and found chrome markers that actually look like chrome need to get some non yellowing lacquer and remove the bridges from the insert then should pass Nick

Its been a long time but thanks to the help and generosity of Lochy at C.A.R I've finished the rear valance and rear 1/4 repairs. Lochy fabricated the valance and supplied the trim clips. Without the clips I couldn't moved forward as I couldn't position the trim. The job would have been so much easier if I had a car to reference as photos are not really good enough, getting gaps right and shaping the rear 1/4s was tedious. Now that the rear is in primer I am torn between keeping the car original 905 red or going for a grey not metallic (very popular at the moment)???? Plan to move on to repairing floor pans (Keep as much original material as possible)

Given the metal work cost add paint and all those little bits that add up so fast costs could easily come up to 80/90000 for full resto? And if one has no sentimental attachment would that be unviable? given that pretty good car could be had for less than that. Hopefully! Nick

Only place I could find them was JDM $165US for clips and $90 for brackets full set Would be good to get some that were cheaper let me know cost Worst comes to the worst its a bodge you can't see I prefer to call it creative Thanks Nick

The cost of getting new clips and brackets from USA nearly $400 aud so having a go at making some Hope to Tig a bulldog clip to fabricated bracket, might be a bit of a fiddle to get fitting well?? Any better ideas, brackets or clips greatly appreciated. Photos of original fitment would be great Nick

Well done Thanks Nick

Somebody sent a message regards part But its disappeared???? Please resend Thanks Nick

Printed an insert needs a bit of fine tuning but not too bad. Need to cut out filaments+ rings a little bigger Still after an original in any (not broken)condition Nick

A coloured aus/euro spec would be great if anyone has one

Is the wiring diagram RHD there could be some differences if its for LHD? Nick

Thanks for the link, there seems to be a difference between early and latter cars. By the look of the ebay one it will fit would prefer an early one but could be hard to source Thanks again Nick

As above after on of these Thanks Nick

After a 5 speed insert, looks like about 50 new inserts were distributer about 4 years ago hopefully someone kept their old one Thanks Nick

I know its been a long time any left ???? Thanks Nick if anyone has an original (look like a lot were changed or lost?) I would be prepared to buy providing they were complete thank you

Might find it better to complete body work before considering mechanicals. Many a build falters in body restoration.

I think you will find that 240z is of the lug centric design ie the wheel is supported by the studs A standard steel wheel has a gap of a few mm round the hub Nick