NickF

Over the years I've done 8 bare metal resprays all using grey primer and top coat, they mostly look great just from the gun and even better when cut back and polished the finish lasted as long as I owned them. The last, my daily driver 1962 EK ute was painted the same way 20 years ago, grey primer and top coat and the finish is great still. So I guess any of the prep coats and finishes should give even better results

"all professional restoration shops I’ve talked to recommend epoxy primer." I think professional is what's important, if you are doing the work yourself and don't have full respiratory equipment and a booth then epoxy most probably is not the best option . Ready to be corrected

Pretty much my approach only I would go back to bare metal for any filler Think your scheme is a solid way for a home job

Behind the valance is an open box section so no problem drying pitting can appear solid till you wire wheel then holes magically appear good luck

Depends where rust is if in cavities use rust converter (don't worry about water use air or heat and it will dry) then you can paint with anything then use fish oil I've used fish oil only, just sprayed into cavities it forms a skin its messy but lasts for ages Weld through primer good If you can always remove rust mechanically You can use etch primer rather than epoxy that will keep rust at bay till you are ready to paint

Would like some pictures of early 240Z decals, paint code is the only one I'm sure of regards placement and content Thanks

Slowly getting along with the "not a nut and bolt restoration" and finding the costs are mounting as I go so many small bit its and pieces that I never considered, every bit of rubber seems to have perished, the little dove tails, trim retainers, horn pad ring the list goes on. Most of what I need can't be sourced in Australia and that adds to the cost. Some of the parts are quite cheap but the cost of delivery, taxes etc adds so much. I'm doing most of the body work and the painting so that's a major expense that I don't have to worry about. I am in awe of people that tackle some of the restorations that I see, their commitment and the quality of the work is amazing Once one gets into this high end restoration the cost must run into the tens of thousands on paint and body then the cost of sourcing the OEM parts take to cost to another level

Surely you conceive and design a car for your biggest market then alter it to attract the rest. It seem to work out ok volume sales to the USA nominal sales to the rest of the world May be you have it the wrong way round! Just a thought

The Americans most definitely embraced the marque the sales there eclipsed the rest of the world by a considerable factor, was it lack of supply or interest that sales were so low in the rest of the world May be USA-centric is appropriate

Pastiche or parody at the end of the day its just a car

Going by my hinges only trace of paint is a bit of overspray the hinges appear to be old cadmium or zinc plated(a dull grey) but over the years they could have been replaced and never painted? Ignore all of the above On closer inspection there are traces of red all over the hinges no primer? What was the order of painting the cars? Thanks

Thanks That's what I though. The bonnet hinges were not painted

A couple of questions regarding original paint When wings removed there was no colour along the top edge just traces of the grey that is on the plenum chamber so are the bolts holding the wings painted, door hinge bolts the same? what about the rear hatch hinge the hinge is painted then there is something that goes between the rubber and the hinge and the hinge screws. are these painted apart from the rubber ? Screws holding door locks Is the paint in the plenum chamber satin grey ?

I know I can get all of this new but I would prefer not Bracket that attaches to the thermostat that holds plug leads Bracket that attaches to valve cover that holds plug leads Plastic clips that hold plug leads Wire hose clips any size water, heater, fuel Drivers side door glass roller guide Dove tails both doors Cover for spare tyre Hold down clamp for spare The elusive clips for rear finisher The list goes on lots of rubber grommets that would be better new I have a feeling that doing a not nut and bolt restoration is a lot harder than I thought!!! Any help will be gratefully appreciated Door lock actuator (lock to black plastic knob) Nick

sorted had to remove wiper motor then cover comes off

How do I remove the wiper motor cover. It seems to be one piece that curves under the motor and clips together. Thanks

Gav I'm impressed very that you have a scarf dealer

They don't require plated nuts and bolts

Cavities are problematic but seams are one of the biggest problems I don't think there is any process that successfully neutralises rust even if the body is chemically stripped, zinc coated and epoxied there is no guarantee that the rust is eliminated, only encased. The only sure way is to unstitch every thing. Happy to be corrected

Maybe the question should be, all other considerations aside is there a preference for a sympathetic refresh or a nut and bolt restoration?

Owners of our cars have different ways of going about getting their cars ready for the road hybrid,nut and bolt, concours etc Some a mixture, restore bodywork and running gear, modifying brakes and suspension. Some to something approaching as the car left the factory. I'm wondering what the preferred way of going about the process is. I've always gone about previous rebuilds replacing metal as required, stripping and cleaning parts and only replacing when I can't get original. The pictures below don't do anything, clean and repair(my preference) or nut and bolt Your thoughts please Nick

Try to modify something like this?

Thanks but wrong clips need these

After a lot of putting on and taking off valance, trim panels and bumper finally got it almost right or completely wrong I think the gap under the tail light trim is too big and the valance should be straight along the top The gap between the bumper and valance is almost uniform and the bumper needs to move to the left a little A big problem is how to attach the tail light trim panels as I do not have the required clips and don't really want to import them from USA So do the gaps need to be closed up and any ideas how to attach the trim Thanks

Ironic really using a car that cost $100000 and is now worth $25000 (if very lucky) to repair a car that cost $2000 and could be worth $25000