NickF

Managed to pull the rail out now have a tight 9mm clearance. Used pieces of 75mm x3mm box section with one side cut out a piece of chain welded to each piece and a Range Rover Chain o RRS clamped box section to Datsun pushed Datsun forward and slowly pulled out, used small movements as chassis rail pulled out floor moved out and up so almost flat. If someone could post a picture looking down from the slam panel to the valance (without rear panel trim) that would be really helpful

Hi Peter The damage on yours looks similar to mine how did you go about correcting Thanks

Not sure but did Australian cars come with the front and rear spoiler, those look like the ones on UK delivered cars The ad is certainly lacking in detail

Thanks 8mm might be doable the enormous slide hammer is moving about 1/2mm getting someone to do the work is looking like a good idea.

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/payneham/cars-vans-utes/1970-datsun-240z-sports-manual-coupe/1273432377 It looks like it has one of these, unusual for Aus car?

Locky I'm sure that would get the best result most of the local workshops not interested, either got rid of jigs or they are buried under piles of stuff. They said if car has to go on jig its a write off. Really only interested in replacing parts!

Pity the video just misses Thanks for posting

The impact was to passenger side to mid car drivers side looks ok , a nice curve There is a slight crease about 20mm in on the floor going about half way and angled down by about 5mm Was thinking of making a template from the new valance, across the line of spot welds and working to that

Thanks so about 10mm? (assuming your referencing the old english measuring system rod ,pole, perch and finger) I don't have the expertise or the equipment to get it exact so I'll work to that unless a 240 is different Thanks again for taking the time Nick

The car has had a hit in the back so the rear valance needs to be replaced (thanks Locky) The rear chassis member is out of shape concave to flat on the pass side convex on the drivers I need to know roughly the clearance from the spare tyre well to the chassis rail I'm guessing about 25mm at the moment its zero rail hard up to wheel well Any ideas, photos greatly appreciated I have a very big slide hammer that I hope will work

Locksmiths repaired the ignition lock it was very badly worn, took it to a couple of shops who said not possible to repair. One small step!!

https://zclub.net/community/index.php?threads/looking-for-parts-connection.28223/ Looks like they are producing some interesting parts

Hi Ryan That doesn't look too bad If the panel gaps were ok prior to pull apart then the damage might only be cosmetic. ( I'm sure people with more knowledge than me will give better advice) A lot depends on your aspirations for the finished car. These restorations are a journey of disappointments and great satisfaction Nick

Hi The earlier ring is different in that it has garage instead of lock,would like to keep car as original as possible. Nick

Hi Is it possible to change over the switch ring from an earlier switch to a later switch and will the positions correspond?? Locksmith has my switch so can't check Thanks Nick

Well spotted I'll have a prod around and see. Couldn't resist went down to shed some found some very small holes I'll take that fillet off and have a look behind, hit along rail with hammer no falling rust so hopefully just that area

Thanks I guess I'll have to source some OEM from Japan or America

Lochy I followed Wick Humples advice and realised it was wrong after tank down, as Ryan said the hose was very hard I decided to leave it in place and work round it Cut the wires because I could not get the little rubber caps off(they were hard as well) Thanks for the response. Nick

Removed tank and it was so nice to see an area that required nothing to do it. Leaving the filler neck in place as it is very hard and I don't want to damage it. Had the locks keyed the same (they were all different )

As above Thanks

all done slowly dropped tank and levered the hose off little by little cut the wires and fuel lines.

Hi I have to remove the tank I battled to remove the 3 screws holding the flange to the floor ( is there an easy way to do this as there is hardly any room) Now the filler neck has to come off ( its very hard) seems that heat gun is way to go. Is the filler distorted (how to return to original shape) and do you go through the same process to replace So what's the process? Start at the top and heat and push through or start at the bottom drop the tank heat hose remove from tank then hear and push hose through. Also the little rubber caps that fit over the connections for fuel sender are hard, use heat on them or just cut wires. Any help as always greatly appreciated

Thanks

Excellent Thanks for the explanation and picture with the down guide missing is the door catch compromised ? Thanks agin

Hi Seem to have mislaid the car keys, have new blanks 1 key for doors, hatch and fuel filler? key for ignition key for glovebox is this right Thanks