Ben

If you draw a blank let me know and I'll send you a set.

American built my ar*e - it's a RHD! (But I'd like to see more piccies all the same...)

Confirming that these are the parts in question. Note that the prices online for the rebuild kit vary significantly. e.g. $28 here, or $60 here

Perhaps I should clarify - each calliper seal kit I bought had 4-piston o-rings, 4 piston dust seals, 4 dust seal clips and 4 o-rings. Only 2 of the o-rings are needed (one per end, not one per end, per half).

I bought rebuild kits for my S12W calipers for about $20/side only a few months ago. There are a surplus number of the o-rings in question - the kit comes with 4, and you only use 2 per-side. Make sure you use PBR rubber grease (or equivalent) when installing the various seals - otherwise they'll bind up.

Thanks Alan, Well there ya go; If the lines are that fuzzy, then the concourse judge can sod off when they tell you that they're in the wrong place! (I guess I'll stick to my aftermarket door mirror that's in a crappy spot...)

At the risk of resurrecting a stale thread (Lurch/mods - fell free to make a new one as you see fit), we should start a bit of discussion on who's interested in going to the Nationals. I only found out about them on 02/10/10, and have already started working on if I can get my car back together in time. I had my Stagea entered in the '05 event, and we had a ball (even if I was too scared to take it on the track!). There was a fine selection of non-Zeds at the '05 event in Goulburn, which did very well at complementing the z-esque focus of the show (including a KPGC10 replica). If my Z can't make it, I'll work on tidying up a few loose ends on my DR30 and take that instead!

In theory, they should be the same - I believe that part of the body is unchanged across all S30 models.

I was wrong - I could only find a copy of the previously discussed 'incorrect' image. But I'm sure that Alan Thomas has the correct info in his archive

Sh*t hot! PM sent - these are some of the only bits my car is missing (mine had small tears in them).

This is most interesting. I think I have a different placement diagram on my computer somewhere. I'll have a look when I get home...

All profiles are available at full-size (i.e. to scale) on the DBA website. I can't remember if there is a profile difference between the vented vs. non-vented Sumi's. I was running metal kings in my non-vented ones for a few years.

FWIW, WRX/R32/R33/Z32 pads will fit the Toyota Sumi's - with only the smallest amount of grinding a couple of the corners. This means that there are a significant number of performance pads available for those who don't need to homologated setup and are using the toyota parts. I'd love to have MK63's on my car, but there are race cars out there with a greater need

My recollection of the S12W vs. the S12+8 is that the +8's don't have external ribbing and are therefore a little narrower, providing some extra wheel clearance. There is also the piston size difference (the +8's have the same 2-sizes of pistons as the S12's, while the S12W has 4 equal sized pistons). I had S12's on my car and the pedal was too soft once I did a disc upgrade to the rear. It was then a bit firm once I fitted a 1" M/C. I'm hoping that the extra displacement of the S12W's will make the pedal feel 'just right' (there are vented discs and braided lines in the equation now, so who knows...)

My 6AL is under the passenger seat. You can hear it happily buzzing away at idle... I'll probably put it on the kick panel to make it a bit neater.

What he said or get an R180 LSD (which are rare, but plenty tough enough for most applications) You'll damage the 1/2 shafts before you break a 4-pinion R180LSD

A-Class did the chrome work on my bumpers many years ago - not cheap, but very shiny! (Who would have thought that my local plating workshop could do plastic as well...)

**waves to new guy**

I can help out with some turbo bits that are now surplus to me: Intercooler + piping (well, several sets actually!) SK's J-pipe (Cast Iron) VG30ET T3/T4 hybrid 2.5" SS split-dump (which would probably need a little modding to suit the H330) I don't have a MS, but I do have a surplus MoTec M48...

Sure (as I recall!) - currently; Standard L28E (N42/N42) turbo head bolts turbo oil pump custom dizzy Haltech E6A ECU standard manifolds w/SK's J-pipe VG30ET T3/4 hybrid 2.5" SS split dump, 2.5" SS single-muffler system 2.5" I/C piping, 450x300x76 FMIC 380cc injectors, standard rail rising-rate FPR Bosch 910 pump, 3/8 feed line (modified 240z tank - use a 260Z one for larger OEM line sizes) Bosch BOV (re-circulating) Earls oil cooler (75C thermostat) Pipercross inline filter + cold air duct gear-reduction starter modified 3N71B gearbox, upgraded trans cooler Pending; Prepped F54/P90 (forged pistons, head mods, etc.) Pallnet rail MoTec or ViPec ECU (anyone wanna buy a never-used MoTec M48 Clubman?) L28ET exhaust manifold ported inlet manifold XR6 TB Bigger T3/4 turbo 3-3.5" SS system modified L28ET dizzy (VG30 opticals) plus a bunch of non-engine upgrades (driveline/brakes etc.) It all sounds so simple as a list like this, but there are plenty of $ and hours and effort required to make it 'work'...

First-gen ('81) L28ET's were N42/N42 combo's. The P90 head with dished pistons didn't come about until sometime in '82. As many of you would know, my (now retired) N42/N42 with bolt on go-fast bits is around the 140rwkW mark, and will pull the 0-60mph sprint in under 6 seconds. The very same motor, with the very same ECU, auto trans and diff ratio (3.90:1) was 68rwkW when it was a fresh N/A motor. The big limitation with running a blown L-block is the 'primitive' head design (compared to your Honda example), which results in needing to run a low CR for everything to work nicely. The P90-headed engines were ~7.5:1, the N42's were ~8.3:1. Even my motor with lots of development still needed 98RON+octane booster to be 'happy' all the time.

FYI, I'm having similar issues with my 'group-buy' of the product. As I am out of town at present I haven't been pushing the matter, but will be renewing my efforts next week...

Family matters = not present online much for a while. I shall call you shortly. Apologies again.

Hey Roberto, If possible, make the cruise at the end of April, because I'll be away until the 22nd... Johnny, you might have to get some improved camera skills - the Stagea is unregistered ATM, so we'd be travelling 'DR30' style.

Replacement boxes aren't hard to find if you need one. Another alternative is a Z31 300ZX, with the aforementioned bellhousing swap. But rebuilds for the 3N71B/4N71B aren't all that expensive either. I had mine tricked up with all new parts for less than $800. (Unlike the full rebuild I've just had done on our '92 Liberty - that was $2k!)